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i know this question has come up before, but my seaches arent finding the info i am looking for under spindle, spindle nut, spindle nut torque


what is the OFFICIAL torque and install for those two spindle nuts on the d44 front?


what i do is torque that inner one to about 30 ft lbs and back it off a quarter turn
and then the washer and then crank the outer to about 80 ft lbs

no issues yet, knock on wood, what do you do?
 

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When I had my d44 thats basically what I did. Except I think I used 45 ft lbs on the inner one and then a little more on the outer. I never had any problems either.

later!
shane
 

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The manual I used said 50 lbs for the inner one, then back off 1/4 turn.

For the outter nut, I've seen different values between 120-160 lbs.
 

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I torqued the inner nut to 45 then backed off 1/4 turn, then spun the hub a few full turns. Retorqued to 45 and backed off 1/4 turn. Installed washer and outer nut and torqued outer nut to either 120 or 130.
 

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YUNADERIS said:
i know this question has come up before, but my seaches arent finding the info i am looking for under spindle, spindle nut, spindle nut torque


what is the OFFICIAL torque and install for those two spindle nuts on the d44 front?


what i do is torque that inner one to about 30 ft lbs and back it off a quarter turn
and then the washer and then crank the outer to about 80 ft lbs

no issues yet, knock on wood, what do you do?
I crank the inner down pretty good to seat the bearings, then back it off. I then tighten as tight as I can by hand, then use the ratchet to go 1/8th of a turn tighter.

The outer I get as tight as I can. If that comes loose, bad things happen!

Later,
....Mike
 

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I tighten the inner to around 45 lbs, (checked it once, now just do it by feel,) then spin the rotor to make sure it has a little resistance and everything is seated properly, put the washer on and tighten the outer as tight as possible.
 

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ive had a huge problem keeping the spindle nuts tight...

when i originally swapped 2 years ago they were torwued to spec...
came loose resulting in major wobble around 45 and even wobbled by hand when i was parked.
tightened em back to spec prolly 4 -5 months ago...
came loose again prolly 2 weeks ago or so. this time resulting in a little bigger problem...
drivin bout 65 mph on I64 around richmond, va i feel a bump like i hit a dip in the road. next thing i know my drivers front drops a foot or so and i look out my window to see my 36" TSL pass me doin about 70... SWEET
long story short, ground the rotor down a good inch all the way down and another inch to 2 inches flat on one side. luckily the rotor didnt catch and flip me cause i woulda been fukked.
so, enough torquing the things down, today i replaced the rotor and tightened the spindle nuts as tight as possible with a breaker bar while still allowing the wheel to spin. threw on some blue locktite (the weaker of the locktites) and called it a day...
the ride is SOO much better now, no wobbles, no fear of death.

anyone have any idea whats causing this.

oh ya the wobbling is causing a TON of other problems, namely the two bolts holding the calipers on to dissappear, oh an the whole tire falling off thing.
sorry bout the long post/rant but i couldnt contain myself

can anyone reduce a pic to size needed for my sig?
 

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TACOSUPREM1 said:
ive had a huge problem keeping the spindle nuts tight...
Are you using the flat washer with all the little holes in it that goes between the two spindle nuts? More importantly, does your inner spindle nut still have the little nipple on it? The one that is supposed to go in one of those little nipple holes on that washer? That is designed (rather poorly since it is very easy to break the little nipple off the spindle nut) to keep the inner spindle nut from backing off.

http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/axle/d44nut01/
You might want to check out these spindle nuts. Seems like they would work better than the jeep ones.

later!
shane
 

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gambrinus said:
Are you using the flat washer with all the little holes in it that goes between the two spindle nuts? More importantly, does your inner spindle nut still have the little nipple on it?
I'm using Chevy spindle nuts, I think. In any case the washer has a key that fits in the spindle's keyway and the outer spindle nut has three hex head set screws. No problems with them loosening even on extended road/wheeling trips.
 

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RLCanon said:
I'm using Chevy spindle nuts, I think. In any case the washer has a key that fits in the spindle's keyway and the outer spindle nut has three hex head set screws. No problems with them loosening even on extended road/wheeling trips.
ill look into pickin those up

now...
as i said i fixed everything yesterday....front end still wobbles pretty bad when i hit a decent bump in the road. im guessing its one of three things. 1: one or all of my tires got knocked outta balance during this fiasco. 2: alignment is off (even though tires look dead on) 3: balljoints need to be replaced?

any ideas
 

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TACOSUPREM1 said:
ill look into pickin those up

now...
as i said i fixed everything yesterday....front end still wobbles pretty bad when i hit a decent bump in the road. im guessing its one of three things. 1: one or all of my tires got knocked outta balance during this fiasco. 2: alignment is off (even though tires look dead on) 3: balljoints need to be replaced?

any ideas
What's your caster set to? And do you have a steering stabilizer? Worn ball joints and tie rod ends are easy to feel/see.

Later,
....Mike
 

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Mike said:
What's your caster set to? And do you have a steering stabilizer? Worn ball joints and tie rod ends are easy to feel/see.

Later,
....Mike
no idea what the caster is set at...been too long since an alignment
no steering stabilizer... should prolly pick one up huh

mike can you reduce a pic for me down to sig pic size?
 

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TACOSUPREM1 said:
no idea what the caster is set at...been too long since an alignment
no steering stabilizer... should prolly pick one up huh
You can measure caster yourself. Draw a line through the center of the upper and lower ball joints. The top of the line should be leaning towards the rear of the truck. People seem to have good luck with 4 - 6 degrees of caster. If you have zero or negative caster, steering and handling can be adversely affected. Steering stabilizers help too!

Later,
....Mike
 

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son of a b!tch

drivers nuts r loose again ( :rolleyes: ) (yes i know that is funny in 3rd grade mode of thinking)

see my thread on POR forum for details...

i give up :confused: :confused: :confused:
 

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The inner nut should be firm but not really. Just enough to squeeze the bearings, not enough to cause excess resistance. Too tight and you'll be hating life.

The outer nut should be goodntight. That socket is a 1/2" drive for a reason. If the outer nuts come loose that little washer is useless. On the drivers side the tire will eventually fall off like you experienced. On the passenger side the inner nut will begin cranking itself down to the too tight stage (see above re: hating life). Then your wheel bearings explode leaving you with a toast spindle and no wheel bearings to go home. This has happened to me and numerous others.
 
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