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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have installed goodridge braided stainless lines, new front rotors, and pads, Brake fluid. Pads and rotors + fluid are Napa premium. I have bled the system 3 times (Including master cylinder, and rear proportioning valve) and I'm getting excessive pedel travel before the brakes "Bite". Very tricky to modulate at slow speeds. My question is is it the brake lines? I have never driven anything with this type of line, but I was under the impression that you would get a firmer pedel feel not a mushy one. So I'm at a loss there.
 

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That sure sounds like a small amount of air in the system. I just installed the same lines on my truck and got a slightly firmer pedal.

How are you bleeding them? Old school buddy system, vacuum pump or pressure pump? I got decent results with a vacuum pump for the bulk of the job, followed by finishing up with the manual buddy system. Mine still feel like they might have some tiny bubbles in the system, but they are an improvement over stock for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah I'm doing the old buddy system. started with the master cylinder, then the rear proportioning thang, then RR to LR, RF to LF.
 

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Chadman said:
I have installed goodridge braided stainless lines, new front rotors, and pads, Brake fluid. Pads and rotors + fluid are Napa premium. I have bled the system 3 times (Including master cylinder, and rear proportioning valve) and I'm getting excessive pedel travel before the brakes "Bite". Very tricky to modulate at slow speeds. My question is is it the brake lines? I have never driven anything with this type of line, but I was under the impression that you would get a firmer pedel feel not a mushy one. So I'm at a loss there.
Crown brake lines are TOP NOTCH, 65 shipped for the fronts :D .
 

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If you have access to the motive pressure bleeder, I am certain your problems will go away. With new brake lines it is very hard to push all the air out. I had a similar problem when I first installed my SS brake lines. Took the truck to a buddy with a motive bleeder and the brakes were fantastic afterwards.

I have since bought my own bleeder and honestly can't believe I ever bled brakes the old fashion way. It is so much better with the pressure bleeder.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm taking it in to the dealer to have a tranny flush, so I'll have them do the brakes too. I know most of the service writers there so its no biggie.
 

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Well then they should be able to hook you up then. I am fairly confident that it is just a matter of getting a good bleed job for you. Once you get them bled, you should not have another problem with them. It will be easier to bleed them in the future as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
SWEET! Now I just have to figure out the death wobble! :eek:
 

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Chadman said:
SWEET! Now I just have to figure out the death wobble! :eek:
DEATH WOBBLE?????? I am sorry, I can't remember if you put a solid axle on your truck or not. Refresh my memory.

More details may yield better answers.:D I have been fortunate, only had a case of the wobbles once, shortly after putting the axle on. Caster was the quick cure for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Actually no I don't have SAS. But my front end feels like it's gonna fall apart over 55 mph. I think it's probably the crappy rancho shocks, or an out of round tire
(Damn BFG"S!). I'll have the toytechs look things over real good.
 

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I didnt' think you had a SAS, but couldn't remember off hand.

I would save some time and check it yourself. jack up the front and grab the wheel at the 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock position and try moving the wheel back and forth. if it moves you need new tie rod ends.

Then grab the wheel at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock position and try moving it. if you can move it then you need ball joints. both are common problems with IFS causing shimming. But a bad coil over strut is also a possiblity. but I would suspect the first two options first.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yeah I checked the the steering like you described, but got no movement at all.
 

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have you tried "bouncing the fender" that is the test for checking the coil overs as you suspect.

With IFS you only have a limited amount of areas to check for wobble.

I am guessing here, but how do your alignment cams look? have you hit one recently? maybe lifted it and the cam wasn't tightened properly after the alignment?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yeah, My front end is really soft even if I max out my rancho 9000's they only have 10k on em! My alignment is a little off too. I think the pot hole streets this winter took their toll on my frontend. :aahg:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Wgasa84 said:
What's wrong with crown lines? I haven't had a single problem with any line that was made by crown.
Nothing wrong with them. I already have nice new brake lines, why would I want to buy his? This isn't the wanted section is it? I just wanted some simple input, not a sales pitch.
 

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well at least it sounds like you have a starting point, sorry I can't help more! But it sounds like you know where to start looking.

Pot holes here were not so bad this year. Although I did hit one that swallowed one of my 37's when I couldn't avoid hitting it. All I saw in the rear view was mayhiem when the car following me too closely hit it. I am sure the city was buying them a new wheel, tire and probably a fender…literally.
 
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