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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2000 Tacoma with Automatic Trans and 160K on it (mostly highway miles). I use BP Gas, Valvoline Max life oil and I change it every 3000 miles.

The Problem: I own property about 3 Hours away from my home, I check on it every other week. I drove there last week, stopping only for a bite to eat. No problems. The truck sat parked for 4-5 hours. On the return trip (3 hours) I hit some rush hour traffic. Bumper to bumper 5-15 miles per hour crawl. Then I noticed when braking, my truck started to sputter and stall out. The RPMs would drop low. I started it back up, and again, when braking, it began to stall - so I had to slip it into neutral to keep the RPMs up. WTF

I am completely lost as to what the problem could be... It just had a tuneup last month (the works)... The only possible thing I can think of is mabey the Fuel Injectors need cleaning or replacement - but that is just a guess! Anyone have this happen to them???:confused:
 

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I'm having a similar problem with my Taco. Occasionally when i crank it up the RPMs drop real low and it cuts off. It also does it when ive been givin it hell and then come to a stop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm having a similar problem with my Taco. Occasionally when i crank it up the RPMs drop real low and it cuts off. It also does it when ive been givin it hell and then come to a stop.
That has happened to me too... but I figured that was all me... Not the trucks fault.

:eek:


I will check the IAC Valve tommarow... we will see if its the problem.
 

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It could be a host of things;

Dirty MAF
Loose ECU Ground
Clogged Fuel Filter
IAC

What type of air filter do you use? K&N usually cause the dirty MAF due to oil. Have you ever replaced the fuel filter?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
It could be a host of things;

Dirty MAF
Loose ECU Ground
Clogged Fuel Filter
IAC

What type of air filter do you use? K&N usually cause the dirty MAF due to oil. Have you ever replaced the fuel filter?
I do have a K&N filter, with the Deck Lid mod... the fuel filter was changed last month... This is the first time it has ever stalled on me like this... local driving (under an hour) I have no problems... I guess its not to bad - 160,000 trouble free miles untill now.:rolleyes:

I probably should clean the throttle body, and check the MAF sensor as well... I am sure it has never been cleaned before...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Checked the MAF Sensor - Cleaned it
Checked the IAC Valve - Cleaned it
Checked the Fuel Filter - Looks good
Checked the Air Filter - Cleaned it

Started it up - Ran good, better throttle response... but still wants to stall out on braking... The RPMs at a Red Light drop down to almost 500...and the engine starts to shake... WTF

Fuel Injectors?:confused:
 

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Checked the MAF Sensor - Cleaned it
Checked the IAC Valve - Cleaned it
Checked the Fuel Filter - Looks good
Checked the Air Filter - Cleaned it

Started it up - Ran good, better throttle response... but still wants to stall out on braking... The RPMs at a Red Light drop down to almost 500...and the engine starts to shake... WTF

Fuel Injectors?:confused:
When you cleaned the MAF did you clean the fine wires? If you look through the cut out hole you will see 2 very small wires. Take some CRC electrical contact cleaner to those. Most people just spray the brown looking sensor and it doesn't do the job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
When you cleaned the MAF did you clean the fine wires? If you look through the cut out hole you will see 2 very small wires. Take some CRC electrical contact cleaner to those. Most people just spray the brown looking sensor and it doesn't do the job.

Okay, cleaned the wires on the MAF Sensor... No Change... RPMs are still way low... It hasn't stalled out, but still runs rough at braking... I am going to do a once over on everything again - I am running out of Ideas...:(
 

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Did you by chance wash your engine bay?
 

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Since all the "good places to start" have been mentioned and those aren't it, try the Throttle Positioning Sensor (TPS). You can buy it, and change it yourself.
 

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Have you checked your plugs and wires? Any hesitation on acceleration? Does your truck have an EGR valve? You problem sounds like one I had with my old GMC Jimmy. It turned out that the EGR valved kept getting clogged wtih carbon deposits. So cleaning the EGR and throttle body/intake may help out.
 

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Did it start this after the engine wash? Have you checked to make sure your vac lines are all connected? If it only does it when you push on the brake it is possible to have an internal leak in your brake booster causing a vac leak only when pushing on the brake pedal. Turn off all accessories and listen for a whistling or hissing inside the cab when pushing on the brake. If you disconnect the vac line to the brake booster and plug it up so there is no vac leak does the idle drop when pushing on the brake? By the way dont drive the truck more than a few feet with the booster disconnected cause you wont have power brakes untill you restore vac to the booster.
 

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Why yes I did... Why do you ask???

Gotta keep it clean...:D
Need to take off your spark plug wires and blow out the tubes with some compressed air to dry them out. I've washed my truck several times before and no matter how little of water gets down there it will ground out multiple or even just one spark plug and cause hesitation and can be a PITA to figure out if you aren't aware of the problem.

If i were you this is where i would start.
 

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I have 2.7 5spd and I had the same problem a few weeks ago. I cleaned the trottle body and IAC and the problem took a few days to go away. But after that went away. I felt like my truck was in the wrong gear when I drove it. It would hesitate when I gave it gas. It would go away after I pumped the gas pedle a few times.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Did it start this after the engine wash? Have you checked to make sure your vac lines are all connected? If it only does it when you push on the brake it is possible to have an internal leak in your brake booster causing a vac leak only when pushing on the brake pedal. Turn off all accessories and listen for a whistling or hissing inside the cab when pushing on the brake. If you disconnect the vac line to the brake booster and plug it up so there is no vac leak does the idle drop when pushing on the brake? By the way dont drive the truck more than a few feet with the booster disconnected cause you wont have power brakes untill you restore vac to the booster.
No, the engine was dirty when this happens... It seems like it happens when the Engine has been run loner than an hour straight at highway speeds - then when you brake - the engine RPMS drop way low. Almost like it is running out of gas...

I did listen for any vacuum leaks... but that all seems fine.
 
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