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Discussion Starter #1
95 taco 4cyl 4wd 138K

truck starts in warm weather, but doesn;t turn over at all when it is cold. Sound like my original starter is dying?
 

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toys are notorius for worn starter contacts, not sure if they are on the newer ones such as yours, but that might be somehting you wnat to look into... the aftermarket offerings for the older toys at least all suck, rebuilding the oem is the only way to go for those
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Lights, radio, etc. all come on.
Starter makes NO noise whatsoever.
 

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Even though your lights and radio work, you could still have a poor contact situation at the battery terminals. I'd clean up the battery posts and connections. The cold does strange things to electrical connections. I might be wrong but this is my :2cents: ...
 

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I would say starter contacts. If you have enough to turn on lights but not enough to make the starter work you would hear SOMETHING from it, whether it just sounds slow or it clicks, etc.
 

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Bad starter contacts will make a single loud click when trying to start. You need to check all power cables to the starter for security as well as the clutch peddal switch for proper adjustment. It sounds to me like there is no power signal getting to the starter.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
battery is only about 2-3 years old. 700 cranking amps. And it was about 30 degrees.

but today it started no problem in same temperature.
I am just concerned about getting a freezing blizzard this wonter and not being able to play around in the snow!
 

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smaug1911 said:
battery is only about 2-3 years old. 700 cranking amps. And it was about 30 degrees.

but today it started no problem in same temperature.
I am just concerned about getting a freezing blizzard this winter and not being able to play around in the snow!
Or getting stuck in the snow... :eek:

Turn on all electrical accessories with the engine off and check your battery voltage. It should not drop much below 12 volts. The start the engine (somehow) and check the voltage again, it should be 13.8 to 14.4 volts.

But, it sounds like you have a bad contact(s) in the starter. I had a similar problem. The starter would crank fine, unless the motor was right on that particular point, then it would click. I have an SAS with 6" of lift, so it took my all of 10 minutes to change the starter. :cool:
 

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Repeated clicking - dead battery, bad connections, wiring issue
Single click - Starter solenoid contacts
This is gonna sound pretty ignorant but, please, bear with me: Do you just clean/replace the solenoid contacts? This is an issue I have begun to experience with a 97 V6 I recently purchased. The duder who sold me the truck had the battery and contacts replaced. I get a single click... and nothing. It takes about 5-10 turns of the key and then it'll go. I've tried it with the clutch start cancel switch on - no difference.
 

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This is gonna sound pretty ignorant but, please, bear with me: Do you just clean/replace the solenoid contacts? This is an issue I have begun to experience with a 97 V6 I recently purchased. The duder who sold me the truck had the battery and contacts replaced. I get a single click... and nothing. It takes about 5-10 turns of the key and then it'll go. I've tried it with the clutch start cancel switch on - no difference.
It certainly sounds starter related. The most common issue is worn contacts in the solenoid. Replacing the two contacts and the plunger is the typical fix. However, the starter also has contacts (brushes) that can wear out, so thats another possible point of failure. I'd start with the solenoid contacts and move on from there.
 

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This is gonna sound pretty ignorant but, please, bear with me: Do you just clean/replace the solenoid contacts? This is an issue I have begun to experience with a 97 V6 I recently purchased. The duder who sold me the truck had the battery and contacts replaced. I get a single click... and nothing. It takes about 5-10 turns of the key and then it'll go. I've tried it with the clutch start cancel switch on - no difference.
I had to replace my 2000 Taco solenoid contacts about 6 months ago, due to the single click issue. The solenoid disassembly was fairly simple since I found pics and step-by-step online via google. I took the whole starter to an auto-electric shop to match the right contacts, and the guy buffed up the solenoid copper plunger disc for free, to remove the corrosion.

The only tricky parts for me was manipulating the socket wrench in that tight space to actually unbolt the starter and rebolt it later, and also was a little tricky getting the starter out of the engine bay through the wheel well (wheel removed). The brakeline tubes turned out to have some some flex in them, so I was able to gentling push them to squeeze the starter out without unscrewing them.

I had to use black cable ties to replace the plastic grommets that hold the inner fender flap in place because they were so brittle they disintegrated when I removed them. Overall, I spent $20 and about 1 hour on the actual repair, not counting driving to the shop for parts. Probably saved a crapload of money over having a mechanic do it. I am not especially talented at mechanical stuff either, but as I said I found some dummy-proof step-by-step picks online. I wish I had that URL now, but you can probably find it in a few minutes on google.
 

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replace the batt first, should be under warantee, you might only pay $10 for new one. Tell them it won't hold a charge...Your starter is overdue, but if there's multiple clicking sounds, THIS problem isn't your starter. If your starter is bad, when you turn the key to "start", it will click once. You can let go, and hit it again and it will click again. Sometimes it finally will catch and start up fine.
The contacts can't be cleaned, must be replaced. Starter contacts kit is appx $35, rebuilt new starter is $120.
Good luck, hope that helps
 

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If you are not in a hurry, I would shop around online for the contacts once you know the part #. I spent $20 at the shop for mine but saw them online for as little as $5 each (you need 2). The plunger disc which meets these contacts and wears them down should be buffed/cleaned at the same time to get a bright copper color back. Just be careful not to lose the little bearing at the other end of the plunger when you take it out. It may fall out.
 

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