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Cracker
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
We place a lot of demands on our starters, and occasionally they do wear out. Rebuilding your starter not only makes economic sense, but gives you a sense of satisfaction by 'doing it yourself'. Starter rebuilds are a relatively simple job requiring only the most basic of hand tools.

Here is a breakdown of the components. Each engine has one of two different starters, they are usually marked with either the part number or the kw.

2.7L (1.4kw) starter P/N: 28100-0C010-84 (non-cold spec)
2.7L (1.8kw) starter P/N: 28100-75140-84 (cold spec)

1. (Required) Contact P/N: 28226-74070 ($8.38)
2. (Required) Contact P/N (non-cold spec): 28226-54340 ($4.45) or Contact P/N (cold spec): 28226-22050 ($5.92)
3. (Recommended) Plunger P/N: 28235-54380 ($16.93)
4. (Optional, if needed) Clutch P/N: 28011-26042 ($59.09)


3.4L (1.4kw) starter P/N: 28100-07010-84 (non-cold spec) *Regular cab & Extra Cab may be cold spec or non-cold spec
3.4L (1.8kw) starter P/N: 28100-62030-84 (cold spec) *All Double Cabs should have cold spec

1. (Required) Contact P/N: 28226-74070 ($8.38)
2. (Required) Contact P/N (non-cold spec): 28226-16130 ($9.22) or Contact P/N (cold spec): 28226-54340 ($4.45)
3. (Recommended) Plunger P/N: 28235-55050 (non-cold spec) 28235-54380 (cold spec) both $16.93
4. (Optional, if needed) Clutch P/N: 28011-26042 ($59.09)

Boo (Boopheonix) has published a very good write-up on starter rebuilding located here: Starter Rebuild

Part numbers and or Prices are subject to change with out notice, please contact [email protected] to verify. Prices do not include shipping. Citizens of the Republic of Texas must add sales tax. :)
 

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Deal Master
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Nice Post Chris!
- May I suggest adding Alternator brushes - since they are in the same ballpark
 

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Deal Master
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valkyrie said:
Good idea- I'll put it together. Do you have a write-up for the masses? :)
Negative on the write up-
 

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Premium Member
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valkyrie said:
Good idea- I'll put it together. Do you have a write-up for the masses? :)

Toss the prices up. If it doesn't rain anymore this week and they aren't to bad I'll pick some up for mine and solve that problem if ya like.

Never thought I'd be fixing my truck when it wasn't broke, lol.
 

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Deal Master
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boophoenix said:
Toss the prices up. If it doesn't rain anymore this week and they aren't to bad I'll pick some up for mine and solve that problem if ya like.

Never thought I'd be fixing my truck when it wasn't broke, lol.

Now if you manage that with just a leatherman...I'd be impressed ;)
 

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grillmasterp said:
Now if you manage that with just a leatherman...I'd be impressed ;)
I think I could have done the starter easily with it not including the mouth bolts. They were a little coroded to the bellhousing and took some engineering to get them out. I may add that method to the starter page I have. It might come in handy for people without a large selection of tools. I can't deside if I want to or not as it's a hell of a knuckle buster if you aren't careful.
 

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Deal Master
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boophoenix said:
I think I could have done the starter easily with it not including the mouth bolts. They were a little coroded to the bellhousing and took some engineering to get them out. I may add that method to the starter page I have. It might come in handy for people without a large selection of tools. I can't deside if I want to or not as it's a hell of a knuckle buster if you aren't careful.

Use the right tool for the right job- you'll end up rounding the nuts
I actually rarely use the leatherman except as needle nose pliers-
everyone should have a basic socket set in their vehicle anyways
 

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Premium Member
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I totally agree there. I have in the neighborhood of 250 tools in my truck at any given time. 1/4 ratchet set, 3/8 ratchet set, 1/2 ratchet set, standard and metric wrenches, other misc. tool and ole faithful the BFHammer.

Yet it always seems I'm lacking the one I need at the moment more often than not. I even have a set of metric sockets for rounded bolt heads.
 

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valkyrie said:
We place a lot of demands on our starters, and occasionally they do wear out. Rebuilding your starter not only makes economic sense, but gives you a sense of satisfaction by 'doing it yourself'. Starter rebuilds are a relatively simple job requiring only the most basic of hand tools.

Here is a breakdown of the components. Each engine has one of two different starters, they are usually marked with either the part number or the kw.

2.7L (1.4kw) starter P/N: 28100-0C010-84 (non-cold spec)
2.7L (1.8kw) starter P/N: 28100-75140-84 (cold spec)

1. (Required) Contact P/N: 28226-74070 ($8.38)
2. (Required) Contact P/N (non-cold spec): 28226-54340 ($4.45) or Contact P/N (cold spec): 28226-22050 ($5.92)
3. (Recommended) Plunger P/N: 28235-54380 ($16.93)
4. (Optional, if needed) Clutch P/N: 28011-26042 ($59.09)


3.4L (1.4kw) starter P/N: 28100-07010-84 (non-cold spec) *Regular cab & Extra Cab may be cold spec or non-cold spec
3.4L (1.8kw) starter P/N: 28100-62030-84 (cold spec) *All Double Cabs should have cold spec

1. (Required) Contact P/N: 28226-74070 ($8.38)
2. (Required) Contact P/N (non-cold spec): 28226-16130 ($9.22) or Contact P/N (cold spec): 28226-54340 ($4.45)
3. (Recommended) Plunger P/N: 28235-55050 (non-cold spec) 28235-54380 (cold spec) both $16.93
4. (Optional, if needed) Clutch P/N: 28011-26042 ($59.09)

Boo (Boopheonix) has published a very good write-up on starter rebuilding located here: Starter Rebuild

Part numbers and or Prices are subject to change with out notice, please contact [email protected] to verify. Prices do not include shipping. Citizens of the Republic of Texas must add sales tax. :)
I am needing to do the rebuild on my 95.5 2.7 and need to know if I should pull my starter to find out if it is cold spec or not? Can "cold spec" contacts be put in a non cold spec starter? I live in Montana so I hope my starter is "cold spec".

Thanks
Brendan
 

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valkyrie said:
Email your VIN to Barb at [email protected] and we'll find out! I cannot tell you that they are interchangeable, since I've never tried. :)

I ended up being able to read the part number off the starter and I have the cold spec.

One other question I have though. I read the 96 FSM and the write up that is floating around. Can the terminal nuts be removed without the special service tool? Also how important is it to do the press work with the block of wood for the contact plate when reassembling? I dont have a press so thats why I ask and everyone on here says its an easy do it yourself project, but I wouldnt think so if it requires press work for the contact plate install.

Thanks for the help I will be calling Barb to get the parts.

Brendan
 

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Cracker
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Discussion Starter #14
brendog84cj8 said:
I ended up being able to read the part number off the starter and I have the cold spec.

One other question I have though. I read the 96 FSM and the write up that is floating around. Can the terminal nuts be removed without the special service tool? Also how important is it to do the press work with the block of wood for the contact plate when reassembling? I dont have a press so thats why I ask and everyone on here says its an easy do it yourself project, but I wouldnt think so if it requires press work for the contact plate install.

Thanks for the help I will be calling Barb to get the parts.

Brendan
I personally haven't done one, so I can't say. You oughta PM Boopheonix since he's the one who did the write-up. I am sure he can give you some tips and answer your questions. He works a gazillion hours a week, so give him some time...
 

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brendog84cj8 said:
Can the terminal nuts be removed without the special service tool?
Yes. Most 1/4" sockets will work just fine.
brendog84cj8 said:
Also how important is it to do the press work with the block of wood for the contact plate when reassembling? I dont have a press so thats why I ask and everyone on here says its an easy do it yourself project, but I wouldnt think so if it requires press work for the contact plate install.
Don't worry about it. Just hold the contact flat when you torque the copper nut and double check that the contacts are flat before you install the plunger.
 

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ShowStop said:
Yes. Most 1/4" sockets will work just fine.

Don't worry about it. Just hold the contact flat when you torque the copper nut and double check that the contacts are flat before you install the plunger.

Awesome, thanks for the info!!
 

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wow wish i had those prices!!!! starter contact....11.00, starter contact.....20.70 and plunger......41.90!!!!!! its like being robbed!!!!! should have told him to kiss me first....before he fucked me!!!!!
 

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First off this is my first post. I've been reading all about starter issues through TTORA, great site by the way. My girlfriend was having the notorious click from her starter. So I read up and found this post.

We ended up picking up a starter rebuild kit from Kragen (it included the contacts and plunger for around $25). I followed the directions from "Boo" on replacing the contacts. I reused the bolts, gasket, o-rings, and washers. It took me about an hour and half to two hours.

Yes it was a pain in the tail to get the starter out, but I took a picture of it so all can see how I got it out. I'll post the picture later this week.
 
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