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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So with the help of a buddy, I installed some new poly bushings.

Everything is cool now but we had a hell of a time getting the stock bushings out and installing new bushing. We used a combination of long bolt, prying on the steering rack and mallet. For driver side bushing, we acutally had to cut the stock bushing and sleeve in half to slide it out.



(the long is the one we had to cut in half)

There just wasnt enough room (The truck was on jack stands and we wiggle tire, rack and combination. btw).

As I look at some of the write, they all seem like they had plent of room. What did I do wrong? :dunno:




(write up on parksoffroad.com)
Also we couldn't get the torque wrench to click at Factory specs so I just hammer on the bolts with the impact wrench.
 

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I had the same experience as you removing that same bushing... matter of fact, my install took two days, and 80% of the time was spent getting that one bushing out. What a PIA! Anyhow, I was able to get my bolts to spec via my torque wrench. I think the results were worth it though.. much better steering control.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah we also wedge a 2x4 between the steering rack and cross member room to work with. For the center sleeve, I went with the looser one that comes with the kit. There was some discussion about this and how its better to drill out the tighter sleeve which comes with the kit but even with the bolt in the stock bushing/sleeve has some wiggle room. I guess its designed that way and the looser one that comes with the kit was a hair smaller than the stock.

Get what i'm saying?
 

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rubberpants said:
So changing those out....did it make a huge difference or not?
i changed mine and it made a very big difference.. not huge but you can feel the difference and it was worth the money and time.
 

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bigblacktoy03 said:
i changed mine and it made a very big difference.. not huge but you can feel the difference and it was worth the money and time.
Yep, definately what he said.. I'd go through the hassle again. lol
 

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Damn, I just did my bushings and I was able to just tap both of mine out. The long bushing with a long punch, and the small bushing with the long bushing and a mallet. One thing I recommend is to cut the overlap of the bushing so it comes out of the housing better. I did however, burn the sleeve out of the short bushing instead of using the ones provided. Fit better and no working the other sleeves. Oh the result was worth the effort.
 

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hossmaster said:
Damn, I just did my bushings and I was able to just tap both of mine out. The long bushing with a long punch, and the small bushing with the long bushing and a mallet. One thing I recommend is to cut the overlap of the bushing so it comes out of the housing better. I did however, burn the sleeve out of the short bushing instead of using the ones provided. Fit better and no working the other sleeves. Oh the result was worth the effort.
I also cut the lip on mine. I had no problems getting the old bushing out or the new bushing in.. My problem was getting my Rack and pinion back in. I had a hell of a time getting all three lining up. Took some time and muscle and some clamps but got it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
bigblacktoy03 said:
I also cut the lip on mine. I had no problems getting the old bushing out or the new bushing in.. My problem was getting my Rack and pinion back in. I had a hell of a time getting all three lining up. Took some time and muscle and some clamps but got it.

I cut the lip of the rubber stock bushing but there just wasn't enough room to slide out the driver side bushing/sleeve. A cut off wheel took care of that with 2x4 between steering rack and cross member.

In terms of getting everything in after the new bushings, it wasn't too bad. The driver side was pretty easier. But the passenger side C shape bracket was PITA. IT was was real tight fit and its hard to slip the bracket over the new bushings and have enough threads for the top and bottom bolts. But this worked for me. The stud on top can be unscrewed with a 10 mm socket. Slide the C bracket in place, till it towards the top and slowly and carefully screw in the stud on the top and put the nut on. NOw bolt in the bottom bolt. You might have to use a floor jack to push up the steer rack. Then you just take turns screwing the top stud, then top bolt then bottom bolt. LUCKILY everything lined up perfectly for the middle bolt.

Torque everything to factory specs (141 ftlb for 22mm and 123 ftlb for 19 mm) took some muscle, I thought everything was damn tight already but it wasnt. I even thought my torque wrench was busted but it wasn't. I pretty much I had to put my entire body weight with one leg pressing aginst the frame to make the torquech click. I thought I was going to a hernia even though I tigthen everything as much as possible with a wrench and floor jack handle as the cheater bar. I didn't have to cheater bar to fit over my torque wrech.

I did use a tiny bit super (poly) grease on the new bushings. I think it should be fine because its not like the steering rack is rotating. The bushing just provide lateral compression.

BTW: The passenger side stud, I'm talking about was not welded on for my truck. It was mentioned as welded on in some write ups.
 

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I bought the bushing kit when I got my Toytec lift... it was fairly easy to put in by myself I guess.... after I figured out what to do cuz the instructions sucked. To get the bushings out I just used a 1/2" to 3/8" socket adapter and hammered them out, and as it looks like others did, I got both sides to start threading on to get the middle one to line up. As far as I could tell it didn't do anything noticeable and I never was able to get my torque wrench on the top of that middle bolt.
 

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On their site they only have steering rack bushings listed for 95.5-2000. I'm assuming they're the same for 01+, just wanted to make sure before I order some.
 

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how did u get that center bolt out? did you use a socket or wrench, i ask b/c its such tight quarters on that one.
 

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Thought I'd share my bushing install which I thought would be quick and painless - remove 4 bolts, remove 3 bushings, install new bushings, and bolt back up. It should have been that easy, but like always it turned into a mess.

Well, I got 3 bolts out ok, a little tight working on the center bolt but not too bad. Then I got to the lower bolt on the C bracket. The nut is tack welded in place, and essentially boxed against the cross member by metal. It took a breaker bar, the bolt came a few turns loose, and then froze up. I tried to loosen it more when the nut which was tack welded down came loose. So I had a bolt that was loose and wouldn’t come out and no way to get to the nut to secure it. There are small holes that access the nut space, but they are not big enough to get a socket in and probably couldn’t get the bolt out if I cut the head off. I ended up cutting the piece of metal underneath the nut with a dremel and peeling the metal back so I could get to the nut. The space was too tight for a socket or a crescent wrench, and I only had wrenches up to 19mm, so I had to buy a 22mm wrench. The closed end of the wrench fit in and I finally got the bolt out.

The old bushings came out pretty easily. Made sure to cut the rubber lip off and they pounded right through. The new ones went in ok, the center one I had to try a couple timed because when I pounded the sleeve in it pushed the opposite half busing partially out. I finally backed the opposite bushing against the cross member to keep it from coming out and got the sleeve in.

After the new bushings were in I tried to bolt it back up. I put in the drivers side bolt first, and then the C bracket bolts. The top C bracket bolt tightened up fine. The bottom C bracket bolt tightened up fine also, except that once it was tightened up, I couldn’t get the wrench out. Due to the tight space, I couldn’t use the open end of the wrench, I had to use the closed end. The bolt stuck too far through the nut, so there wasn’t enough space to get the wrench off the end of the bolt. Apparently when I removed the nut, the bolt was loose enough that I could fit the wrench in. But now that it was tightened down, there wasn’t enough space. I had to remove the bolt and make it about 1/4 to 1/2 inch shorter. I didn’t have any cut-off wheels left for my hand grinder so I bought some more. I went to cut the bolt short and my grinder wouldn’t work, pull the trigger, nothing. By this time I was getting pissed. I ended up just grinding down the end of the bolt with my benchtop grinder. Put the bolt back in, tightened it up, and the wrench finally came out ok.

Almost done, only one bolt left, the vertical one in the middle that drops down through. I tried except it wasn’t lined up quite right and wouldn’t drop through the rack, the rack had to come in more. I tightened up the outside bolts as much as I could and the bolt still wouldn’t drop in. I removed the C bracket and removed the bushing so the rack would come in more. It worked and the bolt dropped through the rack. I re-installed the bushing and tried to tighten the C bracket. There wasn’t enough room to get the threads to bite. I pushed the bushing to the side and started the C bracket bolts. Now I tried to get the C bushing back in. It was a bitch, I had to pull the rack out with a pry bar as I pounded the bushing under the C bracket. Finally got it in. Tightened the C bracket bolts back up. Went to tighten the middle bolt, but it wouldn’t reach the threads. It dropped through the top, down through the rack, but was hitting the bottom edge. The bottom had to come in more. After much struggling, I finally took a C-clamp and slowly tightened the rack against the cross member. There wasn’t much room for the clamp but I finally got it tight enough that the bolt went through. Finally finished
 

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well, old thread, yeah yeah yeah but i just did my rack bushings today.. it only took about an hour, I hope i did it right cuz i had no troubles at all! i do have the procomp 4" drop bracket though so im guessing that helped out with room and maybe fittings.

My clamp really helped out with the middle bushing that goes up and down and the C brace! the mount that holds the middle bolt in was getting in the way, so tightened up a clamp on the rack and bushing and MADE it go in! buggered up the outside of the bushing a little but nothing to stress over.

I did the drivers side bolt FIRST! i think that made a huge difference on how things lined up. the C bracket just took a clamp to move the rack closer to the crossmember and after that the middle bolt slid right in. torqued em all up and done!

Overall a huge difference in handling! and my steering wheel is finally dead on straight! used to it had to be turned a tad to the right to be straight. i didnt realize how bad my bushings were getting i guess but definately worth the time and money (how little you have to spend) to get the handling with just some bushings!
 

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Great! I managed to come up with an "enhancement" to the system in case you want to consider it. On mine the D bushing section between the rack and crossmember managed to squirm its way out of place over time. Now I have looped some zip-ties over the 2 bolts and between the rack and crossmember, hopefully to help hold it in place.
 

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Is there a specific bushing package or type of bushing that is the best or highly recommend?
 
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