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Discussion Starter #1
has anyone had any problems breaking their stock flat top 44 knuckles?
i have to redo my knuckles and i thought it would be a good time to up grade!
what i have: currie hp44 waggy width,stock chevy flattops, cromo axles and ujoints, running the tie rod(1.5x.375 wall w/ 1 ton ends) in the stock location w/ hydro,crossover but not high steer w/ ott high arm w-5/8 studs
what i have to do: fix the knuckles because the caster is off 2 degrees from driver to passenger
what i want: put my other steering arm on and get the tie rod up and redo the hydro bracket for one side, so i'd have crossover high steer then,while in there i'd like to replace the knuckles if need be
not sure if i should do inner and outer or just outer? if i only do outers does that defeat the purpose? do i need both to make it worth it, or are the outers the only real concern? or should i just stick to my stock one til i have some problem?, i think for the $ i might stay with stock but i want to know what you think :D
this rig is slowly getting more burl and i want to make sure all the components are up to the task of beating the crap out of them,check my profile for all my mods if i didnt list everything needed to make a response, thxs in advance!
 

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Guapotaco said:
has anyone had any problems breaking their stock flat top 44 knuckles?
i have to redo my knuckles and i thought it would be a good time to up grade!
what i have: currie hp44 waggy width,stock chevy flattops, cromo axles and ujoints, running the tie rod(1.5x.375 wall w/ 1 ton ends) in the stock location w/ hydro,crossover but not high steer w/ ott high arm w-5/8 studs
what i have to do: fix the knuckles because the caster is off 2 degrees from driver to passenger
what i want: put my other steering arm on and get the tie rod up and redo the hydro bracket for one side, so i'd have crossover high steer then,while in there i'd like to replace the knuckles if need be
not sure if i should do inner and outer or just outer? if i only do outers does that defeat the purpose? do i need both to make it worth it, or are the outers the only real concern? or should i just stick to my stock one til i have some problem?, i think for the $ i might stay with stock but i want to know what you think :D
this rig is slowly getting more burl and i want to make sure all the components are up to the task of beating the crap out of them,check my profile for all my mods if i didnt list everything needed to make a response, thxs in advance!
I cracked a flattop knuckle in half.......

-David
 

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Davidtaco said:
I cracked a flattop knuckle in half.......

-David
yea but look at where/whom that comment is coming from! I dont thing there is a part on your truck that you haven't thrashed!

You are definitely one of the more hard core memebers on the site!

The worst I have done to my steering is broke my steering shaft (well documented from Take Over) and bent a steering arm. The stock flat top knuckles are solid as far as I can tell. But then again I haven't had my axle on as long as you have David.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
dick,its an after market knuckle, so you shouldnt have any problems,its alot of bling at $199 a piece for 4 pieces,plus new arms if it came to that, i know it'd be worth it if i did it in the beginning, but i'm way deep into it and dont want to keep throwing money at this $6000 (2nd)44 i have
parts mike doesnt seem to have the high rise arms that i'd need to clear the springs , so no go, same for crane, only dendenbear makes a stock stud set up i guess after looking around, and i'll reuse my ott arms if thats what i do
so is this worth doing or not, inners and outers or just outers? or just stay stock?
DT: How did you break it?
Bear:what kind of wheeling do you do?
i'm starting to do some of the harder trails like billings, 21 rd,montrose, all the hard moab stuff etc...and this truck will be a trailer queen within the next year i hope,so things will get even burlier if i dont have to drive it home, and that means more chances of breaking it, thxs for the info guys
 

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I do harder trails then some but not harder than others. I know that is vague, but I am having a hard time coming up with a proper answer for you.

I have wheeled my truck hard enough to completely strip out the threads on my pinion out of the front D44 if that is any indication. My front fender looks like it went threw a cookie press from the trees and rocks it has met.

I like to think I am a smart wheeler, I try to maintain no hop while on obsticles yet do as extreme stuff as I feel comfortable doing. I did nearly flop my truck Thanksgiving weekend on a trail, but you can flop in a parking lot doing donuts if you don't know what you are doing.

Since the truck is still a daily driver I guess I am a bit more cautous than someone that can trailer in and out from the trails.

But back to your original inquiry. I have seen more steering arm studs break more than steering knuckles.

My caster was off similar to what yours was. I took the truck to a friend of mine that specializes in offroad and jeep transmission work. He has set up many rigs. Anyway he said that we over rotated the knuckles some and redid my spring perches for me. This did two things, it corrected the caster without needing shims and also made the truck track a whole lot better. You might want to look into moving the perches.

In regards to your hysteer issues, what springs are you using that you can not get the clearence needed? I also had clearence issues with my springs and tie rod. I ended up going with a steering arm spacer and now my tie rod is sitting almost parallel with my drag link. Bump steer is impossible now since my geometry is damn near perfect.

I was sceptical as most about the strength of the studs, etc of the steering spacer, but that same Thanksgiving weekend outing was also the first trip I had on the truck with my new hydro assist ram. I figured that if the steering studs were ever going to snap it would be with ram assist, and they held up fine. I have put the tire up against a verticle curb and turned the wheel into the curb to test the ram/steering. I stopped the test because I had so much pressure on the set up/wheels. I thought I was going to pop a bead off on the curb test.

Hope some of all this rambling helps.
 

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I suppose spring clearance is anthor advantage of a link and coil setup. There's nothing in the way of the steering stuff.
Couldn't you find some thinner springs or something? Try to keep the leverage on the steering arms down as much as you can so you don't snap studs, steering arms etc. off later.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
please re read my 1st post for what i'm running now, i have 5/8 studs with ott high arm on the passenger side so they clear my alcan springs, wish i had a camera so i could show you guys, if i go aftermarket thats the issue with arms,mike and crane only make their knuckles to fit their arms,hench the delimma(sp)and they dont make no high arms, and yea links dont have this problem,i fiqured you guys wheeled hard, i 've seen what the cali boys are running and i'm right there for sure,i have also broke 9/16s studs, but because i found out much later that my knuckle wasnt machined down,and thats what started all this in the first place, i have 5/8 studs i got from spider trax and nothing has moved or broken,so if i want to use my driver knuckle it has to be machined and tapped for 5/8 studs to make it bomber, so back to the original ?, if i go through all this and it breaks then i'll be right back to where i am now,it's mainly coming down to $,but i know in the long run to do it right now, and not redo it a forth time,i've learned the hard way, and dont want to go down that rd too much more,my only option to re use my arms is get some dedenbear outers and leave it at that, they dont make inners,any opinion on the inner and outers together and if it matters?, i know the outers are what breaks so i might just stay stock inner , and bomb outer, does that sound like a good plan?, dick are you running stock inners? thxs again, i learn a shit ton of crap on here everyday, is that any oxy moron?, or is it just me,hahahahahahahahaha
 

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Guapotaco said:
… if i go aftermarket thats the issue with arms,mike and crane only make their knuckles to fit their arms,hench the delimma(sp)and they dont make no high arms, and yea links dont have this problem,…
Do you have Parts Mikes spacer? I actually bought my arms from Rock logic, but bought a 1 inch spacer from Parts Mike for my Dana 44 in hopes that I could get my hi steer set up to work, but when the springs started to sag I started rubbing the springs again.

I am guess I am just being dence on this one. How much clearence do you need?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Bear are you familiar with OTT? thats what i have, i dont need a spacer, i have high rise arms now, and i've decided to stay with my stock arms for now after learning some new info today, i talked to tom over at spider trax to day and he said that the stock knuckles arent much less beef than dedenbear or mikes,basically they are stock replacement if you dont have flat top chevy's to machine down and make all good for high steer arms etc... but the crane stuff is way beefed up, and i found out they do a spacer for their arms under that actual steering arm if you need high clearence for springs etc... they also have a cool key way in their arms so they'll never sheer or anything, which is way sweet, but their price is also way sweet, go check them out if you havent seen all the new crane axles they are making, it some pretty sick stuff, as always thxs for the info guys, and i hope to see some of you out wheeling some day!
http://www.ottindustries.com/dana44.htm
http://www.cranecommerce.com/catalog/raceteams.php?osCsid=6bkqqpeaf00fmjb6laf6kilrn3
 
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