TTORA Forum banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
so the nipple on the block that is the mounting/pivoting point for the dynamic tensioner has grenaded on me while reinstalling the tensioner. i was reassembling things after replacing the t-stat and even took the time to chase the threads on both mounting points on the block and the bolts. as i went to torque things down, the main bolt slipped like a stripped thread before i reached the full torque. as i remove the tensioner mounting plate a quarter of the nipple just crumbled off and appears to have a crack on the other side too. while looking at the mounting plated and tensioner together and the bolt running through them, theirs only about 3/8'' of thread showing for engagement into the block. measuring the nipple, its about 7/8'' deep and the broken area goes back toward the block a good 1/4''-3/8''. the only easy solution i can think of now would be to get the older tension plate with the fixed pulley, thats if the 'C' (looking at the TRD instructions for that setup, page 9 of the following link- http://www.parksoffroad.com/tacomamods/miscinfo/TRD34LSCInstal.pdf) mounting point on that plate is the same location as the allen head bolt for the dynamic tensioner? can anyone confirm where the older tension plate mounts to the engine? other than that maybe an insert with some jb globbed around it while using a stud? any ideas, thanks
oh, so im bypassing the blower by using the alt belt and i have also disconnected the 7th injector. any foreseen problems driving like this?
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
wow! is everyone as stumped as me on this one? no one has or knows the actual lower mounting location for the older tension plate with fixed pulley? more over, am i damaging anything by driving the truck by bypassing the blower? thanks-
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
um... well actually its still the 'stock' urd mapping, i dont have everything setup (afr gauge/scanner/laptop) yet. as far as getting air, i can hear the rotors spool from the engine sucking air. even when i rev from the throttle body it spins the rotors, so to me i think the air is just enough. so far i havent noticed any problems but id like to prevent any further destruction to the truck...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
552 Posts
the stock urd map has changed the timing and fuel mixture based on the maf sensor readings and other sensors that it has buffered. no way I would run it without going through and changing the map to 0 in all fields. I just took my s/c off to be rebuilt and put on the stock manifold. not even going to chance it until I change the map to 0.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
well... ive HAD to drive the truck but ive definitely babied the truck in doing so. ive tried to reach urd today but no answer, ill try again tomorrow and hopefully get some input. im still waiting on a guy from toyota to get back to me about the older pulley plate and where it mounts to the engine too. now youve made me super nervous- yikes!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
so im not having much luck with toyota in finding the older pulley plate. matter of fact im just not having any luck. i guess its just the holidays because im not getting any response from urd, toyota, even you guys... if anyone knows where i can get the idler pulley plate,
pt# 00602-17620-010 or has one they would like to get rid of please hit me up with a PM!

http://www.gadgetonline.com/Tensioner.htm

the item im looking for is in the 3rd pic down on the above link.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
thanks for hanging with me wrauj, i have the black s/c. if you look at the link in the first post, they use the pulley plate with the black unit. thats actually where i got the part number. hopefully tomorrow i can get some answers about getting one through the dealer, if not then i guess ill be taking some measurements in order to fab one. i was also thinking to use a insert like a solid ez-lok. then just heli-arch around the damaged area and build up the missing material essentially welding in the ez-lok (im not sure what to use as filler material?). then use a threaded stud with some sort of nut?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
422 Posts
Dude that is brutal... i had to heli-coil mine i think.... it had seen 15 years of rust... (as well as the block stiffeners from the 3vz) as neither of them were ever used prior to my 5vz swap...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
brutal indeed! i dont see that an actual heli-coil will work. but if i could find a long enough insert, that in my mind seems a little more promising? then just tig around it with what filler wire im not sure of yet? i also believe because of the side load that your talking about wrauj and the lack of thread engagement from the bolt is the reason the metal failed? out of the 3/8'' or so of thread showing for engagement almost an 1/8'' is tapered. so for now im still open to ideas...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
422 Posts
I doubt a helicoil would work. A time set would be better but ugh..... wow... might want to post up on a fabrication or engine building forum?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
yeah, time-sert/ez-lok. thats what i have in mind but with all that missing material i need to find a way to replace all that too. fabricating a pulley plate seems the easiest solution right now. ive been meaning to stop by a machine shop and get some input but time/work hasnt allowed it. its been 3 wks and i still havent gotten any response from toyota or urd, so we'll see what i make time for this weekend???
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top