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Discussion Starter #1
So this is a long sad epic but here's the short version:

Broken shock mounts = motor comes out, and while it's out goes to FAT Performance who does our SCORE VW race motors, for some work and a TRD supercharger install. They have a great relationship with Toyota and they do a lot of Toyota motors, though they did say they didn't have any experience with this motor. Lots of dirt in the intake so we decide to just have them rebuild it to be safe. Probably the first mistake. I tried to push the URD kit, but FAT wants to go with 7th injector kit based on recommendation from some head honcho at TRD (Bob Gardener?). Most likely 2nd mistake.

Few months later, and truck is finally back after the following problems: battery/electrical trouble, blown knock sensor, broken wire (don't know to what but it necessitated taking blower all the way back off to locate and replace), blown valve seal. Truck spent the latter stages at a Toyota dealership in/near Santa Ana for easier access to diagnostics stuff and what not.

We get the truck back with the disclaimer that it's running "strong", but is getting better with each drive and the computer needs about 50 miles to reset itself of "catch up" or something like that. My dad drives it. Says there's less power than before until about 4000 RPM. I drive it a week later. Won't run past 2000 RPM. Electrical problem that's sucking all power while the truck is parked. That gets fixed at a smog place and the truck actually starts and runs. I drive it for well over 50 miles so the computer should definitely have "reset" itself.

Basically when it's running "good" it feels very hesitant and there's definite dead spots. (most noticeable from about 2900 to 4000 RPM) It's noticeably faster than before but not by leaps and bounds. Then, often (and it seems most often when I first hop in it and after I warm it up), it won't even go. Less power and responsiveness than stock. A few witnesses agree that it's worse than stock. I can't tell any noticeable knocking or pinging in the weekend that I've driven it, but it's just very tempermental, and is not smooth or consistant power by any means. I'm completely fed up with the thing, and I don't know if I should send it back to Toyota to figure out, or have URD put their 7th controller kit on it and tune it, or have URD yank the 7th and do their own fuel mods.

Any thoughts?? Sorry this came out a little long, but it's still the short version trust me!! Thanks for reading the whole thing for those who do...
 

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Did you do a compression test?
 

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You have a lot of new things going on at the same time and that makes it hard to know where the problem really is.

I like the suggestion of a compression test. That will show the health of the engine. If that is all in spec, I would completely remove the TRD Control unit and see how it runs without it. Just don't use full throttle over 4000 RPM. That should tell you if it is an engine problem or a TRD Control Unit problem.

If it is an engine problem, then putting a URD kit on it is not going to give you the result you are looking for. It all could be as simple as a timing belt one tooth off.
 

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Gadget and MT Goat know their supercharger stuff…no doubt!

But my first thought was the check valve under the throttle body for the lack of power.

When I installed my blower, I did not have the check valve which made the engine run like poo. I put in a generic check valve which helped but not great since I installed it backwards.

Finally got a replacement check valve from TRD and installed it correctly and the engine sprang to life and have not had any issues with it since.

hopefully it is something simple as mine was. Good luck.
 

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Do a compression test and also have someone stick a vacuum gauge on there and check it for a plugged exhaust, maybe from a toasted CAT.
IMHO it's best to go with the full URD kit. The profit motive runs too stong at TRD while they also made a total mess of the SC kit from the get go. I don't think they would have fuel mods of any sort today if some of their customers like Gadget didn't do it first. When they finally did, they did it in the cheapest way possible inorder to maximize their profit.
 

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Sorta sounds like problems I had.... My truck ran like ass, and had check engine light for miss fire.... I tried everything.... but what did the trick was pulling the stock spark plugs and installing cooler plugs. Never had a problem after that.

-David
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for all the suggestions, I'll try these things and try to figure this thing out.

Pretty sure FAT installed colder plugs...
 

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Sounds like my story w the S/C and 7th; after all the recomended "fixes" by TRD (plugs, thermo, water-wetter....) called Bob Garner and (after 2 yrs) got a full refund for $2,999 and labor to remove. All I ended up out was the install labor and whatever damage that POS caused to the motor.
 

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Beyond what’s been stated (compression check especially), check all the vacuum lines and everything to the installation, and all the connections for the 7th injector (including those behind the glove box). It might not have anything to do with the S/C and 7th, but could be connection and lines that are wrong. Anything wrong in those may cause your issue. Had a line off when I first got the S/C and it ran bad. I have the S/C and the 7th without a problem.

What year is it? Dead spots and 03 or 04? APPS? TPS?
 

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Speaking of Stupidcharger woes...my unit, Gen IV with the dynamic tensioner, installed on my 98 back in 04, has less than 40K on it and is about to give up the ghost. It's making a terrible racket in the main body - we verified that the nose is fine and the bearings turn smoothly. It sounds like the impeller is loose and could fragment at any moment, so off comes the SC and it gets shipped off to Magnuson for a complete rebuild for the low, low, price of $750.00. Sucks! :mad:
 

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That I'm not sure of....there is speculation from a couple mechanics that the oil level is low (??). If it's that simple, great...but how would an oil level issue manifest itself suddenly? There is no indication of leakage, and I thought these were supposed to be pretty much maintenance-free, unless it came from the factory with less than adequate lube to begin with...? That stuff isn't cheap, either...
 

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I don't see how a lack of oil would affect the rotors unless the drive gears were really messed up and allowed them to bang in to each other or contact the housing.
 

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That's a good point...I guess I'm hopeful that it's an easy fix; I guess they could add some fluid and see if it addresses the problem or just dampens the sound to where you can still hear the parts thudding against each other or the housing or whatever the problem is.
 

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7th injector is not a mistake if properly tuned with URD AIC. Are you familar with an old fart named Dave? Guess not. http://www.customtacos.com/forum/member.php?u=4830


Myself and others wished we had the 7th injector instead of the URD kit.

Follow to gadget's advice. Trouble shoot everything yourself and dont get your results second hand.
 
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