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Discussion Starter #1
Okay i haven't found any info on this in my swing out searching. My original plan was to use 2X2 3/16 wall for the swing out arm and the triangular shaped mount for my 33 spare and 48inch hilift. I have enough left over 2x2 from my sliders to make the arm and was going to buy some more for mounting; however i'm feeling cheaper then normal and was thinking of saving a buck and just getting 1/8 wall for the triangular mount for the tire and jack. So my question is, what do you experienced fabbers think? will the 1/8 inch hold up for this part of the swingout? Or should I stick with my original plan of 3/16 for is all?
 

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i used 1/8 th on mine and was carrying a heavy ass 35 on a steel rim and a 60" highlift and never had a problem. the issue is building a hinge that will hold up. btw my phone took a shit and i just got like 500 texts from the past few days that never came through. have a good time out there?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'd stick with the 3/16"

'cause over kill is better then under kill. IME
That's how I usually look at it.

i used 1/8 th on mine and was carrying a heavy ass 35 on a steel rim and a 60" highlift and never had a problem. the issue is building a hinge that will hold up. btw my phone took a shit and i just got like 500 texts from the past few days that never came through. have a good time out there?
I believe i saw some picture of yours on here and you had two hinges though and a rectangular swing out? What I want to do is build something similar to most swing outs you see on wranglers. I'm not positive but the way you made yours i would think the weight was distributed to many different points. I want mine to eventually be able to hold up a 35. I was going to attempt to make a heavy duty greasable spindle.

Had a lot of fun, trail 4 had some cool shit, got to use my t case skid plate for the first time, and somehow bent in my back bed panel...still not sure what did it :confused: I want to go again soon so i can try an pick more difficult lines :D
 

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That's how I usually look at it.



I believe i saw some picture of yours on here and you had two hinges though and a rectangular swing out? What I want to do is build something similar to most swing outs you see on wranglers. I'm not positive but the way you made yours i would think the weight was distributed to many different points. I want mine to eventually be able to hold up a 35. I was going to attempt to make a heavy duty greasable spindle.

Had a lot of fun, trail 4 had some cool shit, got to use my t case skid plate for the first time, and somehow bent in my back bed panel...still not sure what did it :confused: I want to go again soon so i can try an pick more difficult lines :D
did u go down the drop off? if u did thats probably what got ur bed, the exact reason mine was highclearanced
 

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Discussion Starter #7
did u go down the drop off? if u did thats probably what got ur bed, the exact reason mine was highclearanced
Is that the like 2.5 -3 ' ledge when you are going up 4 towards trail 2. There is a sharp ass turn real close to there where i had to make a 2 point turn. I want to build this bumper soon for the swingout AND to high clearance the rear
 

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Is that the like 2.5 -3 ' ledge when you are going up 4 towards trail 2. There is a sharp ass turn real close to there where i had to make a 2 point turn. I want to build this bumper soon for the swingout AND to high clearance the rear
yep thats the spot. if u want a chalenge ill take u to the shoot, but im not takin my 4 runner up it haha. i had enough fun doin it in my truck
 

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Discussion Starter #9
yep thats the spot. if u want a chalenge ill take u to the shoot, but im not takin my 4 runner up it haha. i had enough fun doin it in my truck
I always want a challenge haha. I liked down a little past there the trail split in two and then rejoins after like 100 yards. Going up it wasn't bad at all but going down made my ass pucker
 

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I always want a challenge haha. I liked down a little past there the trail split in two and then rejoins after like 100 yards. Going up it wasn't bad at all but going down made my ass pucker
ya go down that fucker on a xr650. ive been down it 4 times and ate shit twice, kept it up the other day though
 

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Discussion Starter #11
ya go down that fucker on a xr650. ive been down it 4 times and ate shit twice, kept it up the other day though
Haha right on, there were two guys there on hondas (don't know what kinds) and they couldn't make it up past half way. You get 33's on the runner yet?
 

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Haha right on, there were two guys there on hondas (don't know what kinds) and they couldn't make it up past half way. You get 33's on the runner yet?
put a spacer up front for a couple weeks till i get my icons, got my lx450 coils in the rear(need longer shocks still) and got my 32's all on. sliders are soon to get welded on and then bumpers, but there probably a ways off yet
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Nice it will be sick once you're done with it. How do you like the 3.4?
 

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1/8 is just fine. its a triangle.
left to right maybe...

but there ain't no triangle support front to back...
just some welds... and a hinge pivot pin

1/8" can move more then one might think...
my sliders deflect quite a bit thank you

If I were to do 1/8" for the uprights....
I'd likely fish plate were the butting occurs on the horizontal stock.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
left to right maybe...

but there ain't no triangle support front to back...
just some welds... and a hinge pivot pin

1/8" can move more then one might think...
my sliders deflect quite a bit thank you

If I were to do 1/8" for the uprights....
I'd likely fish plate were the butting occurs on the horizontal stock.

See i was thinking that exactly, I can re enforce 1/8 inch side to side but it was the front to back motion that i am concerned about.

I don't put it past myself to end up in some dumb ass approach where my rear tire could be sitting on a rock after sliding around some....or tree with my experience. and i don't want the weight of my junk rolling back to bend the carrier into the tailgate or worse yet breaking it completely.
 

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1/8" seems fine to me when triangulated and supported well. It always seems like the pivot is the weak point to me, not the tire carrier frame.
 

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If its a single hinge with a swing out arm type design, the weak point will be the swing out portion and the hinge.

I have seen 1 ton spindles, used as the swing out hinge, bust off from flex. The other end of the swing out carrier with a single spindle hinge is often fastened in one place on the other end, this allows for the tire and upright to act as a moment arm. After a while, the spindle gets fatigued and breaks off.

I used 3/16" for the whole thing when I made mine, if I were to do it again, I would have used 3/16" for the swing out portion, and three 1/8" uprights. I designed mine with a double sheer fasteners, BUT from an aesthetic point, double sheer hinges look much nicer.

:2cents:

Wally
 

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Discussion Starter #18
If its a single hinge with a swing out arm type design, the weak point will be the swing out portion and the hinge.

I have seen 1 ton spindles, used as the swing out hinge, bust off from flex. The other end of the swing out carrier with a single spindle hinge is often fastened in one place on the other end, this allows for the tire and upright to act as a moment arm. After a while, the spindle gets fatigued and breaks off.

I used 3/16" for the whole thing when I made mine, if I were to do it again, I would have used 3/16" for the swing out portion, and three 1/8" uprights. I designed mine with a double sheer fasteners, BUT from an aesthetic point, double sheer hinges look much nicer.

:2cents:

Wally
Thank you sounds like your design is similar to what i want to build. I just ordered some bronze sleeve bushings to make my hinge. going to make a double shear hinge using 1 1/2 inch grade 8 bolt, i'm thinking it will be pretty beefy when i'm done with it, so no worries on it at that end.

I'm hoping someone with a carrier will see this that used 1/8 for the frame so i can find out how it has fared for them. My concern is that over time and bad roads the weight would slowly fatigue some point on the frame and cause a failure.

I still have to build a new rear bumper so I have some time to make the decision. But if nothing else I will be falling back on 3/16 for peace of mind
 

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Not sure if I saw anyone mention it.. but you may also want to give a slight angle up on the tire mount.
This will change (slightly) the force applied to the hinge area.

1/8 would work, but it all depends on the design.
Just remember to use triangular corner braces (to help spread the load).
And like others mentioned the hinge needs to be robust.
Good luck and post up pics of the build.
 

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FWIW, I made my sliders out of .120 wall square tube.

My 2004 Double Cab Tacoma weighed in around 4300sh pounds for trail wheeling. I could lift the whole side of the truck up with a High Lift. Thats with 15" frame stand off! AND NO, my sliders were not all dented up or ever had a failure using them for mild/ moderate wheeling i.e. sliding over 2-3' tall rocks or pressing into a rock with the slider to do a dig on tight degree corners.


To finish my point, the .120" withstood 2150sh pounds in static and 6+ years of wheeling, if the engineering is sound .120" wall will handle a 100lb tire on a swing out tire carrier.

:2cents:

Wally
 
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