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I switched to rope for several reasons..Mostly due to the safety factor..It's lighter, stronger and just easier to deal with..If it breaks you're not likely to kill or maim someone either..Just my .02..
 

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xcmountain80 said:
I know i asked this question in the old forum but the pros and cons of synthetic vs. wire wire is more durable right ? and 1/3 the cost? 3 times the weight. but really what do I need ?
I love the synthetic, no more rope slivers or cuts, it's basically weightless to carry or throw up a hill and the safety factor is huge. It's also stronger than wire rope inch for inch. The drawbacks are succeptibility to abrasion damage and heat but if you're careful you can usually avoid rubbing it on stuff or use a chaff guard. Heat really isn't an issue unless you power out a lot of line on your winch. If I ever wear out the rope I have I'll order it again, it's awesome.
 

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I know in sports events where lots of people are standing around and watching, synthetic line has its merits, not only that if it breaks who cares there are extra's all over the place.

On the business side, regardless of strength, wire is the ultimate in durability bar none. As an example, we were putting a new antenna parts on top of a tower that required the use of synthetic winch rope instead of wire cable for safety from electrical shock. While we were at lunch ie 45 minutes that rope nearly rubbed itself in two, we had to replace it before we could continue it would have taken days for the same size of wire cable to have done the same thing.

No synthetic winch line I have used was as tough as a wire one of the same size, for some that may be a factor to consider. Visualize a hacksaw or 50 grit sand paper rubbing on each and you will see what I mean, its hard to always keep your line off rocks, snags, or sharp burs and in these kinds of situations wire rope is superior.

There are down sides to wire rope, I am not suggesting there isn't, there is no such thing as a free lunch, it weighs more, requires gloves to handle, you have to keep people out of the way, but it is far more durable and its very very very rare that wire rope breaks when used correctly.
 

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Uneasy Rider said:
Is that synthetic line some kind of Kevlar (armid fiber) or is it just a strong type of nylon? thanks just curious here.
I worked on a prarsail boat for two years and the line we used was made of a stuff called spectra. We had 1000ft of 5/16 line on the spool, I THINK it's max load rating was like 24,000 pounds but working load was like 14,000 pounds.
 

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xcmountain80 said:
I know i asked this question in the old forum but the pros and cons of synthetic vs. wire wire is more durable right ? and 1/3 the cost? 3 times the weight. but really what do I need ?
I've been using synth for awile now, and I'll never go back to steel. It's just way way easier to work with, and much much lighter.. and size for size, stronger. It's so nice just being able to toss somebody the line, and to be able to pick up the entire length in one hand, and not worry about sticking yourself with barbs or the line whiplashing around when winching. It's also much easier to spool.

Only minor things to watch out for that I've found:

If you were running steel on your winch drum before, repaint the drum before loading on the synth. The rope will retain some water (rain, etc) and while it doesn't hurt the rope, if you have bare metal on the drum from the wire line rubbing it off, it will rust there.

Just like wire line, after using your winch you need to respool your line to reduce any pinching or crimping of the line on the drum. It's not as damaging as with wire, the rope you just kinda fluff back into shape, but it still needs to be done after you winch a heavy load.

Only use a roller fairlead if it's brand new and never been used with wire. An alum Hawse is best, and will increase your approach angle in alot of cases anyways.

I got mine from OK Off-road also, great prices and I had good service from them.
 

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I recently bought a winch and haven't put it on yet and wont be using it until my synthetic line shows up. I ordered it last week from OKoffroad who makes lines with Amsteel Blue. I also got an aluminum hawse fairlead which is pretty much a requirement for synthetic line since it's smoother than the steel cast ones.
 

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It is an ultra high molecular weight polyethylene. It is acually stonger than Kevlar. It is avaliable as AmSteel blue from Sampson Rope or Plasma Rope from Puget Sound Rope although I have no doubt that other brands are avaliable. Both AMSteel and Plasma are made with a fiber product trade named spectra from Honeywell.
Here is a link to the Honeywell site.

http://www.honeywell.com/sites/sm/afc/spectra_fiber.htm
 

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xcmountain80 said:
Ok I went and bought one !!!!!!!!!!!!!! :)

Aaron
Thank you! I hate playing medic on the trails. Ive put enough people back together not hit with winch lines, Id rather not add that to the list.
 

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Uneasy Rider said:
Is that synthetic line some kind of Kevlar (armid fiber) or is it just a strong type of nylon? thanks just curious here.
Depends who's it is. Amsteel Blue (what I run) is UHMW. Ultra High Molecular Weight. Suffice to say, really cool plastic. 5/16 cable BREAKS at 9800 lbs. 5/16 uhmw is around 13500.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Front Range said:
Thank you! I hate playing medic on the trails. Ive put enough people back together not hit with winch lines, Id rather not add that to the list.

Yeah tell me about it I carry a similar emt first aid kit I can suture and whatever else it might take, I have yet to run across anyone damaged froma snapped line thank god , I know I could have gotten my line for less but I believe in trying to keep the little guy afloat.... But another idea I had .....hmmm could I not put a eye hole type loop in the end of my old cable line and use it for long reach applications? would it be somewhat safe?


Aaron
 

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I did that to my old cable and will throw it in the truck if there is room to carry it which depends on the trip. Be sure you use at least 3 clamps (preferably 4) with the appropriate torque and that they are aligned so that the cable isn't twisted between them or in the clamp itself. Once you set it up, test it under controlled circumstances to verify its integrity
 
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