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Discussion Starter #1
Thinking about making a TCase skid. Ideally i want to make my own Xmember, however in the time frame im looking for and how much time i will actually be able to work:( . Has anyone tried attaching a skid to the stock xmember in similar fasion to the trail gear skid? There is some spare 3/8ths steel plate hanging around, that i am tempted to try to weld that onto the factory xmember. I know the factory xmember is not exactly suited to the additional pressure but just want to know if anyone has run something along those lines with what results?
 

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Mine attached in the front, and I made a bolt on bracket aft of the transfercase.



What you don't want is to force the transfercase to support the weight of the vehicle if you get hung up on something.

If I were to do it all over, I would have skinned it with UHMW plastic. I would back it with 1/8", reinforced with light weigh square wall tubing and then 3/8-1/2" UHMW plastic.

Wally
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hmmm not sure you guys understand my question. I want to mickey mouse a skid in temporarily. Im wondering how well the stock xmember will hold up to the abuse. In the future when i have the time to make something i will make my own Xmember. For the near future im thinking of welding a piece of plate on the factory member like this.

I have hit my crossmember really hard and been high centered on it and it held up fine. but im wondering if anyone has tried this and what the xmember ended up looking like? If it bend up like a pretzel or not:lmao:
 

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This budbuilt skid replaces the stock xmember....IMO it would be harder and more time consuming to build what you are attempting (unless you have a sheet metal bender). It seriously only took me an hour, 2 tops to make the new crossmember for the rear. The front of the skid ties into the stock transmission xmember. Save yourself the headache, money, and time....do it right the first time :2cents:
 

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If I am understanding correctly?

Bolting the skid to the stock cross member and have it come under the transfercase? So that its attached on one end, but not the other?

If that the design, the skid would act as a lever on the stock/ oem cross member. The moment arm would be a good foot long, when the skid plate is pushed up against the transfercase, the 3/8" skid would start pulling, twisting/ bending the stock cross member.

Wally
 

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If that the design, the skid would act as a lever on the stock/ oem cross member. The moment arm would be a good foot long, when the skid plate is pushed up against the transfercase, the 3/8" skid would start pulling, twisting/ bending the stock cross member.
I highly agree with this!

Even with my design (modified version of tacodells) I was worried about the same thing. Until I tied the middle skid (between front and tcase skids). If you twist the stock xmember you will have no choice but to build a new one, and possibly cause damage to other areas. I've beaten up on mine pretty hard and it hasn't budged. I've still managed to to end up on the stock xmember legs near the frame....let me tell you, it doesn't take much to bend.....
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I dont want to spend all the time and money on it when its not the way that i want to set it up. I want to make my own xmember that is independent of the skid completley ( so i can drop the skid but not the case). Weld some C channel to the bottom of the frame and on a large peice of plate and have bolts coming in frome the side. If you can imagine this would probably take a long time to fabricate. Certainly at my pace considering this would be the 2nd project iv ever done. With all the trips i have planned this summer and the fact i work 6.5 days a week i would never get it done. Im all about doing it right in the long run. I want to find a way i can protect the T-case quickly:lmao: Unless i chop up the CBI bolt on sliders and buy the trailgear Mount+skid.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
This budbuilt skid replaces the stock xmember....IMO it would be harder and more time consuming to build what you are attempting (unless you have a sheet metal bender). It seriously only took me an hour, 2 tops to make the new crossmember for the rear. The front of the skid ties into the stock transmission xmember. Save yourself the headache, money, and time....do it right the first time :2cents:
I more so ment welding plate on like that directly to my stock member for the time being. One of the trail runs i have coming up i got stuck on the tcase unprotected twice and i was sweating. I dont want the tcase to be the only thing turning me into a passenger in a jeep.

Im running out of ideas that will keep me on the trail haha. MY last thought is to make a tcase cover out of an old warped 8.8 cover and attach it with some sq tube left from my bumper.
 

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I don't think anyone here is really going to give you any "mickey mouse " fixes....Most of us who have tcase skids are using them, and don't want to skimp and defeat the purpose of having it in the first place. I ended up on my Tcase a couple times before I had my skid, and it made me sweat bullets! But I sure as hell didn't think about making something temporary, especially if the repercussions of it failing cost far more than doing it right in the first place. I guess your idea is better than nothing at all......but i would be cautious and wheel like it wasn't there. Good luck.
 

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Believe me I understand, you have a group of friends that like to run a certain difficulty of trail, you want to hang with them. BUT don't waste your time with that design. Not saying that to be mean, it has the potential to create more heart ache than its worth.

If you look back 4-5 years ago, I made a heavy duty version of the stock transfer skid. :rolleyes: AND then I tried to rip my transfercase out in the rocks. After that trip, I started working on a cross member aft of the transfercase for mounting the transfercase skid. Experience is invaluable. :)

If you work a little bit each evening, ie 30-45 minutes, in a couple of weeks you will have a rear cross member fabricated.

ie day one, start cutting out frame tabs, once that is done, measure and cut steel for the cross member, day 3-4 measure, clearence for catalytic converter, .. I think you get the idea. You can do it!

If your plan is to wheel difficult trails, with IFS and a couple of inches of lift, your gonna thank yourself for making quality skid plates.

Wally
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Believe me I understand, you have a group of friends that like to run a certain difficulty of trail, you want to hang with them. BUT don't waste your time with that design. Not saying that to be mean, it has the potential to create more heart ache than its worth.

If you look back 4-5 years ago, I made a heavy duty version of the stock transfer skid. :rolleyes: AND then I tried to rip my transfercase out in the rocks. After that trip, I started working on a cross member aft of the transfercase for mounting the transfercase skid. Experience is invaluable. :)

If you work a little bit each evening, ie 30-45 minutes, in a couple of weeks you will have a rear cross member fabricated.

ie day one, start cutting out frame tabs, once that is done, measure and cut steel for the cross member, day 3-4 measure, clearence for catalytic converter, .. I think you get the idea. You can do it!

If your plan is to wheel difficult trails, with IFS and a couple of inches of lift, your gonna thank yourself for making quality skid plates.

Wally
Good points, anyway besides if i make a temp skid. I searched an all the designs i could find used sq tube to hold it up. Has anyone welded angle iron to the frame and another peice on the skid? I know it will be a heavy skid scince it will go frame rail to rail. i think 3/8th wont need any support in middle. any idea's?
 

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There are a dozen decent ways to do it right.

You could weld angle iron to the frame, and bolt your cross member to the angle iron.

You could make or purchase tabs weld on sleeves and urethane/ poly bushings.

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Suspension-Bushings-Accessories_c_161.html

(The sleeves and poly bushings would cut down on vibration, make it easy to remove and service, but probably the most costly way to go)

I used 1.5"X .120 wall and made a bolt on bracket with spacers to make it crush proof.



Most people use square because it doesn't require a bender, its strong parallel to the web (sides) of the square wall.

You can go over the catalytic converter, or under it. If you go under it you will most likely have to clearence the crossmember for the converter.

Its not a bad idea to consider protecting the converter, but the weight will increase?

As far as the skid, you can approach it from a number of directions. I would put support the the skid with a backing of some sort.

I used 1" X 14ga square wall, but angle iron would work as well.



There are several great designs linked in this thread.

Wally


Good points, anyway besides if i make a temp skid. I searched an all the designs i could find used sq tube to hold it up. Has anyone welded angle iron to the frame and another peice on the skid? I know it will be a heavy skid scince it will go frame rail to rail. i think 3/8th wont need any support in middle. any idea's?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Plan to mount it similar to this. Not exactly a great pic but you get the idea.
 

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That would work, angle iron on the frame, with the skid is turned up on the sides to attach to the angle iron.

If your going with any reasonable thickness of plate/ sheet thickness, I would still support the span of sheet/ plate in the center with more angle iron or square wall, accross the span in both directions. ie across the ends and through the center as well. Would need to drill a few drain holes in the skid to let mud, crud and water out.

Wally
 

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You could make a skid out of thin material that would bend before it tweaks the crossmember (1/8th" steel). Kinda like the stock skids on our once stock trucks and 4runners. It will still protect the t-case from sharp rocks that could crack the case.
 

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That would work, angle iron on the frame, with the skid is turned up on the sides to attach to the angle iron.

If your going with any reasonable thickness of plate/ sheet thickness, I would still support the span of sheet/ plate in the center with more angle iron or square wall, accross the span in both directions. ie across the ends and through the center as well. Would need to drill a few drain holes in the skid to let mud, crud and water out.

Wally

I didn't brace my center section (the plate itself) at all, it's been hammered hard a few times and has a few little dents in it, but nothing major. The drain holes are a good idea, but you have to cut them pretty large and that sacrifices structure, and adds an edge to get hung up on. I drilled about 1/2" drain holes in each corner of mine and they always get plugged up with little rocks and stuff.
 
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