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Discussion Starter #1
I'm taking my bed off my truck tomorrow so I can strip and repaint my frame with MasterSeries paint. I've never attempted bed removal before, so I want to try to iron out any potential pitfalls right now before I go breaking things out of stupidity.

I did some very quick inspection work under the truck today and as far as I can tell, there's 6 bolts holding the bed to the frame. I do realize that I'll have to disconnect the wiring harness for my taillights, but I'm not exactly sure where the plug is for this. Can anyone help me out with a location for that harness plug?

Also... is it possible to remove the bed without completely taking off the fuel filler hose? Basicly, is there a way to keep that entire hose intact with the fuel tank, but just disconnected from the beds fuel access door area?

Would removing my tailgate from the bed make it significantly easier to take the bed off?... and what about my rear bumper, should I or do I have to remove that too?
 

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The plugs for the tail lights are on the back of the taillights, you have to unscrew them to get to the plugs. Also make sure they arent fastened to the bottom side of the bed anywhere, mine had a couple connections holding the wiring in place. You dont have to take off the filler neck for the tank, just take off the cap and remove the plastic lining around it. You dont need to remove the tailgate or bumper, and I dont think taking them off would really make thing any easier as the tailgate isnt that heavy.
 

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X2 on what YoTRacer said.

Just disconnect the tail lights, and those 6 bolts are pretty much it...

The bumper is mounted to the frame, so that won't be an issue, and the tailgate would only reduce the weight of the bed a little, but probably not even enought to be noticable.

I had to lift my bed up to install the new new fuel pump when I did my Supercharger / URD kit, and had no issues.

 

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The fuel neck filler hose will actually pull itself off from the inside of the bed with out messin things up, like said above: take apart the tail lights, pull the wire harness out and let it hang below frame, remove the 6 bolts. when ya start lifting the box, just go a little ways first , just to make sure your not missing something that no one has mentioned.. ya should be good to go..
J :saw:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Crap... I can't get the damn bolts off my bed. They're frozen and I'm afraid they're going to break if I kill them.

Soaked in PB Blaster and they still won't budge.

I wish I had an impact wrench.
 

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PB Blaster sucks, get some TriFlow.
 

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Go get yourself a cheap electric impact wrench. They are not expensive at something like $30 for a cheap one but are still handy to have if you don't have the compressor and air tools. I use one all the time when I pull the axle apart etc.
 

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Granted I don't know torque numbers for them- but I've been dreaming of a cordless impact myself. Talk about making trail work spiff.
 

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My dad gave me a really nice Craftsman 18V Cordless Impact wrench for Christmas last year, and although it's kind of expensive, that thing has been worth its weight in gold!



Craftsman 18V 1/2" Drive Cordless Impact Wrench
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I finally got all 6 of those damn bolts off. 2 hours soaking them in PB-buster, a Breaker bar, 2 thick half inch extensions, and a big 3 foot long pipe over the breaker bar did the trick..... although those bolts didn't sound to nice while coming off. I can't wait to slap some never-seze on them before putting them back on in a few days.

Kinda sucks that it took soo long though, because I never even got a chance to lift the bed off the frame yet. Just undid the 6 bolts, pulled the taillights and fed the wiring harnesses through the access holes so they're dangling down under the truck and unclipped all wiring harnesses from the frame.

I wasn't aware they sold electric impact wrenches for under 100 bucks... All the cheap ones that I saw on Sears.com were air powered tools. Dick.... any idea where you got the one you have?

On another note..... Daylight Savings time is such a stupid idea. I wish they'd get rid of it and keep the clocks forward so assholes like myself can work on their trucks for another hour every day.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
OK... been looking at Cordless Impact Wrenches online at a ton of places and I think I want to get a decent cordless one.

I don't really have any experience with cordless tools... what do you guys think about the quality of the following cordless tool manufacturers?

-Makita
-DeWalt
-Milwaukee
-Craftsman
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)

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All the power tools that I have are Dewalt, except for my Impact Wrench, which is the Craftsman pictured above.

All the brands you listed above are names that I trust. I don't think you'd go wrong with any of them (Makita, Dewalt, Milwaukee, Craftsman, or SNAP-ON). Pretty much comes down to personal preference. I would just steer clear of Toshiba, Black & Decker, Hitachi, Neiko, etc.

Right now Sears has the Dewalt 18V and Craftsman 18V both for $284.99
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Man.... this is turning into a pretty big chore... probably more work than the first time. There's a lot more nooks and crannies to sand down with the bed off the truck than I could see last time I did this with the bed on the truck... and there's a lot of stuff I'm trying to stay away from with my grinder like fuel lines and brake lines and also trying to work around the damn wiring harnesses.

Hopefully tomorrow I paint it. Will try to take some pics and let you guys know my impressions of this MasterSeries anti-corrosion paint that I bought.
 

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You'll pay more for a cordless and it won't last as long. Just get yourself a corded cheapie for your garage. Leave the power tools at home and stick to the basics for the trail. Otherwise you'll have your truck weighed down with a ton of shit and really need all of those tools you're hauling around. It's sort of a self fulfilling prophesy in that the more weight you carry the more you break.
 

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Any of them should be OK. Milwalkie is the best and probably the most expensive. I'd rate DeWalt next then Makita with Craftsman dragging up the ass end.
 

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partyman66 said:
Thinking about getting a good one if I'm going to get one...

http://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com/xq/asp/prodid.57604/TID.{3412C188-BB1E-475C-A298-E9D05B9A2CD5}/qx/product.htm


$309 after shipping and has 360 LB of max torque in reverse. Should meet my needs if I decide to splurge on this toy.

I'm assuming Impact sockets are different(more durable) than regular ratchet sockets... is this true.. or are they interchangeable?
I've never personally dealt with IR impacts, but i know that IR impacts are what all NASCAR teams use in the pits, so they must be pretty good.

the impact sockets are made to stand up to the shock of the impact gun. ive seen regular sockets split in half on an impact gun.
 

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Dick Foster said:
Any of them should be OK. Milwalkie is the best and probably the most expensive. I'd rate DeWalt next then Makita with Craftsman dragging up the ass end.
That's about how they fall in line.. I love my Snap on 1/2" impact!!! most of my other air tools are craftsman (cause of the warranty) a few of my air tools are Ingersoll Rand(Not my fav) I did just find a porter cable die grinder, that has to be the most powerful die grinder I've ever used!!!! I would get the dewalt if I was gonna spend that much on a cordless impact, or milwalkee!!!! JMO .....Jeff :welder:
 

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We are not talking about air tools here but about electrical power tools.
If you haven't noticed Craftsman tools have been in the decline over the last few years.
Craftsman was owned by Sears and now Sears is owned by K Mart. I figure you can add two and two on your own.
I figure K Mart will start selling off all of the Sears real estate any day now the same way they sold off their own.
Hummm it all kinda reminds me of the junk bond, hostile take overs of old.
 
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