First I want to thank Adam, Kevin, Brad & Jayce who has helped wrench on my Tacoma.
And to the many others that I have used their threads on the items I have read up on and how they installed the equipment.
Next, I bought my 2001 Tacoma Double Cab TRD Limited new in 2000.
Only major options were the TRD package, Limited package and e-locker.
For the modifications listed below; I have provided a hyperlink.
So you can go directly to that thread without needing to wait for all the photos from the other threads to load.
In the beginning, I mainly used my truck to drive to trail heads to either hike, rock climb or mountain bike.
So most of my wheeling were on the original weak ass AT tires that came with the truck and on fire roads and crossing of small streams.
Most of my time, energy and Money :2cents: went to my other ride, a 2000 BMW Z3 2.8L straight-6 Roadster.
As you can see I spent my weekends mainly racing her in three different states (NC, SC & VA).
After my move to San Antonio, I semi-retired from racing, due to the long drives and hellahot temps.
After a few years of not really doing much stuff, I decided to look into wheeling and I found YOU ALL and the TX-TTORA Chapter!
Hanging with the San Antonio crew, was eye opening and amazing on how well even a stock Tacoma could handle most easy to moderate wheeling spots.
Now I had a new hobby to sink my time, energy and Money :2cents: okay most of my money and I still do a lot with my BMW Car club.
License Plate Light by LitePLATE >.......LitePlate UPDATE, this item failed at the PCB, I have removed.
>.......I will NOT RECOMMEND this part for use. ProCLIP & OTTERBox Cell Phone Mount
>....the ProCLIP's weld nut stripped from the plastic.
It now does not tighten.
I have replaced the system with a RAM X-Grip.
Cobra 18 WX-ST II and a Wilson Silver Load Flex-4 (4-feet long)-(past) - replaced with a Uniden 980SSB and Wilson 1000
I did purchase Budbuilt's Belly Pan skid plate and cross member.
But due to interference with CBI's Clamp-on Slider mounts, I have to figure out to modify the Cross Over Member.
JFAB and I were talking about what we could do with it.
Once I get that done, I will post up.
Disclaimer: Any modification or suggestions that you take from any of my posts is your responsibility. Me or my family are not liable for any issues or accidents or deaths that occur. Be safe, read, re-read, ask questions and if you do not have the skills find someone that does.
This guide is for information only, and I nor any member of this forum (including the admin, moderators, owners, hosts or affiliates) take any responsibility for anything that may go wrong. Use this guide at your own risk.
After over a couple months of waiting, I was finally able to get some help on the installation of my new Total Chaos UCA's...
My helpers included...
Ross - - thanks for the beer!!!
Adam
Kevin - - thanks for the breakfast tacos!!!!
Key Tools used:
pickle fork, split ring pliers, Ball Joint remover & press and my favorite a BFH!!!
Prior to the disassembly and reassembly of the UCA.
Below is what came with the TC UCA kit.
Not sure if you can read the engraving on the bushings...very cool shit.
The following are photos of Ross, Adam and missing is Kevin and I...
working to remove the factory UCA and Ball Joint.
The installation of the UCA was fairly easy - once you get everything removed...from the battery, the two Airbag sensors (one on each front fender), and the rubber mud flaps on the wheel well; the actual install of the new UCA went well.
Tool Tech Tip - PB Blaster, the best thing to use to loosen a nut.
Do a shot of the PB, the night before and then again a couple hours before the WAT. It will make your life easier.
Factory UCA removed:
I guess the longest amount of time spent was figuring out the Ball Joint removal tool (trying different configurations) and basically seeing which set up would allow us to remove the factory Ball Joint.
Removing of the Ball Joint...the fun part.
This is what we loaned.
Installation of new bushings for the TC UCA.
TC UCA - Installed!
The work instructions from TC and all the past UCA installs that were conducted helped me figure out how to remove the factory UCA and install the TC UCA.
We could not believe how easy it was. Below are some links that I used.
Yeah I know - why even mention this...
While we were finished the install of my TC UCA, I was wondering - out loud to Ross and Adam, what else can I do...then it hit me - -the pinch weld mod.
Using my box cutter and my favorite tool - - THE BFH!!!
Off I went...
Factory look...
Plastic Trim cut off...
BFH going at it!
The aftermath of the beat down.
The only picture I forgot to get, was the painting of the now beaten down pinch weld. I will get it later and post it later on.
After going up & down the hill at the Power Lines, I saw this clearing and proceeded to go check it out. The photo below is looking down the hill.
In the end I came out with this little scratch...
The clearing was heading back up hill on a gravel ridden ground cover - off camber and tree line to the right, in the photos you can actually see the angle of the tree trunk on the door panel.
Ran out of traction and had my rig in 4Hi (yep stupid), tried to back down a little to get some better traction, but the truck started to slide to the right and rested against a tree. Stuck and could not go forward or rock back or forth to get out (yep stupid). So the only thing to do - I was by myself (yep stupid) - I gassed it in reverse and ripped the mirror off and dented the door as you see (yep stupid). Had to put some goop inside the vacant hole to prevent leaks!
Now I am looking for manual mirrors, I think I found some 2000, that were part of the off-road package and are manual. Mine are chromed and powered. I want to replace it with manual versions.
Waiting for the buyer to send me a photo of the mounting side of the mirror to see if they will work with my truck.
As for the door, I might wait to see if I can find a salvaged Taco to get the door from it. Then convert this one into a half door...who knows....guess I need to pack an axe.:saw:
Well, after a couple of weeks, I was able to find replacements off eBay for under $50/each. I opted for the black version and powered, to replace the TRD / Limited versions.
So the following to replace the stock mirrors. The procedure is really quite easy.
Step 1:
Pop off from the top of the inner appearance mirror cover.
Note it will pivot downwards.
Step 2:
Once loose, pull up and it will remove from the door.
Step 3:
Next unbolt the three nuts (10-mm).
Step 4:
Pull out the mirror.
Step 5:
The wire harness connector can be pulled out from the door easy too.
Step 6:
Hook in the new mirror and feed the connector back into the door's cavity.
Step 7:
Rebolt the mirror.
Step 8:
Reattach the appearance cover.
Step 9:
Step back and take some photos.
Opinion: It has been over 2-months since I have installed these mirrors and I can safely say they are NOT like a great factory replacement.
The big issues is shock absorption from road and wind is NOT very good. You get up to highway speeds and the mirror's glass vibrates so much you can not use it very well.
3 out of 5 star for a replacement.
I might hate this so much that I may look to reinstall my one good factory mirror and find another factory mirror to replace the original busted one. Oh well, live and learn.
The Cutting has commenced!
Sawzall with THE TORCH Cutting blade
A bottle of Shiner
A carpenter's square, tape measure, painter's tape, metal file, door edging and a pencil
Don't forget to wear safety glasses and ear plugs.
After laying out the tape, I used the carpenter's square to give me a good edge to measure down to scribe in my cutting line.
Then using the same carpenter's square I generated my straight line on the marks I did earlier.
Now came the fun part...take Sawzall in hand and go at it!:saw:
The hard part was the actual corner of the fender section, I first was using the short 6" blade, but found that the metal structure at the corner was better to reach with the 9" long blade.
After deburring the edges and rounding off some sharp corners with my hand file, I took some black spray paint (Rustolium) and painted the inside and on the cut edge.
I then took some door edge trim and fitted to that same edge (after the paint had dried).
BEFORE:
AFTER:
All this is to get my truck ready to mount my by CBI rear bumper.
Or...maybe I should just bob the bed!
*****
edit: In case anyone is wondering why I cut so much off the rear's corner...look at the bumper's photo below.
The bracing near the shackle mount area, would have been a problem during the install.
CBI's Rear Bumper-tire, jerry can, Hi-lift, bike CARRIER system
Well it was late 2007 that I placed an order with Steve at CBI.
Options include the following:
Tire carrier
Jerry can carrier
Hi-Lift carrier
Bike rack mount
Powder coat - color black of course.
Steve and I discuss the bike rack mount and he might make the left side a right angle look to incorporate the bike rack mount.
The photo shows an angled look to the tire carrier.
The reason for the bike rack mount - it is to mount my Thule upright carrier.
Forgot to mention that I will retain my bed bar that JFab made for me.
The photo is how I currently transport my bikes to the trails.
The top of the bed bar should be the same elevation as the CBI bumper, once it is installed - - I hope!
Also the tire will be mounted lower than it is shown on the photo.
The tire, jerry can and Hi-lift will be able to be locked with a padlock.
It was scheduled to be completed either late January or early February (more likely). It did arrive mid-February.
*****
Well my bumper arrived on a pallet...so off I went to pick it up at the shipping depot.
Check this shit out!
This is after I had removed the shipping cardboard that CBI wrapped around my bumper.
I then removed the bumper off my truck (both new and old).
*****
Well...after ordering this back in 2007! HERE IS MY NEW REAR BUMPER!
The total install did not go super smoothly...I will detail it below.
But enough said, it is on and WOW!
Well, early this week I called Jayce (JFab) at San Marcos to see if he was free this Friday afternoon and luckily for me he did not have any jobs going on.
So today, I had a dentist appointment and soon after that was completed - no cavities!
I was off to see Jayce.
First thing I did was to remove the bumper from by truck and then grind off the powder coat paint from the frame.
ISSUE #1:
We had to cut out new "thinner" 10-gauge steel plate.
The 1/4-inch steel plate that came with the bumper would not wedge between the bumper inner walls to the frame's outer walls.
This was due to manufacturing tolerance between CBI and Toyota.
We had a difference up to 1/4" at one end.
So since we could not spread apart the bumper to slip it onto the frame and plates...we made new ones.
We also chamfered, the leading edges of the bumper to allow it to slip onto the new plates...and guess what IT WORKED!
So after that Troy (Jayce's handy dandy welding mate) went at it!
After that was completed, we ground down the welds flush, again to aide the bumper to slide on easy.
Oh yeah - a fresh coat of paint went on too.
And Lordy Lordy, then with a little push, the bumper was on!
Next to be installed was the tail gate.
Finally stand back and view the line up.
Now to add the equipment - - first the spare tire...yeah I know, I need new wheels and tires.
ISSUE # 2:
Next was the Hi-Lift...oops..the bolts do not line up to the holes already on the Hi-Lift!
Now, I see that the body of the Hi-Lift holder is too low and it interferes with the main body of the Hi-Lift, even when the lift is all the way to the base. Looks like I will need to get a grinder.
Even though the upper bolt is a floater, it does not float vertically enough and the bottom bolt was short from clearing the hole.
The distance from the top of the plate (that the Hi-Lift rests on) to the center of the bolt is 11-3/16"
I think I will stay with JFab's original Hi-Lift holder, until I can get this one modified to work.
Jerry can holder - mine is plastic and this one works with metal versions.
So I either need to get a new jerry can or modify this one to accept the plastic versions.
I am leaning towards modifications.
ISSUE #3:
I then tried to place my Receiver Shackle Bracket into the receiver...the hole that is used to located the Hitch Pin - - did not line up!
The shackle's body bottomed out against the receiver housing, thus preventing the hole to line up properly.
I have verified that the hole's location from the face of the bumper to the hole's center is measuring 3.25"
My Reese Tow Hitch measures 2.5"
I then took the Receiver Shackle Bracket out and placed it backwards, inserting from the opposite side and the hole lined up and the Hitch Pin went in.
Looks like the Receiver housing was welded backwards...
I will need to find a new Receiver Shackle Bracket to replace the one I have.
Overall the construction of the Bumper is STOUT!!!!
When the tire was mounted, we tried to rattle it - - it did not move!
The only odd thing, which I never thought to ask about was the pivot pin for the tail gate...Steve at CBI made it out of a solid piece of round steel bar with grease grooves. Then the pipe tubing would slide over it and it had a grease nipple on it. We were skeptical at first, but after loading the tail gate on, it swung really well. The only concern I have on this part was the lack of a cover that would protect the area from getting water in it or grime.
I will be looking for a plastic cover or a big ass rubber to cover it. I will post up the cover, once I find one.
My thoughts so far -- the drive home was smoother...the extra weight did make it less BOUNCY! It also level out the truck a little more...I will verify the heights of the truck tomorrow too.
The side guards are super beefy!
I can't wait to go wheeling with my truck now...just need tires and wheels!
Soon after I close on my new home, I will be looking for those next items!
MY HAND GOES OUT TO STEVE AT CBI for a killer Bumper!!!
I will email Steve tomorrow to inform him of my issues and the one big oops!
MY OTHER HAND GOES OUT TO JAYCE AND TROY for staying the over to work on my truck!
I wrote Steve this morning, telling him about some of the issues that we found during the install...well no more than a few hours later, he had emailed me back!!!!!! Talk about response time!
I confirmed this morning and afternoon, that what Troy, Jayce and I saw was happening. Anyways, I gave some suggestions on future builds and a couple reasons why it happened.
For the persons that were interested in why, there is a hoop on the top of the Tail Gate ... here's why:
This will be used to mount my Thule up-right bike carrier.
Also today, I added 4-more nuts and bolts to the bumper and also added a LitePLATE.
Update from early 2012:
My LitePLATE stopped operating, I checked and it was the PCB that is encapsulated that failed. Ran a meter at the wires and received no reading.
Meaning I pulled some of the jacket off the wire near the epoxied area to gain access. To make sure it was not a wire/connector issue.
So I have since removed it and tossed it... WASTE of MONEY.
i even emailed the makers with no response.
SO I WOULD NOT RECOMMEND this product.
I first took my nibbler and notched out an area to clear the wiring to the LEDs.
I then cut some left over door trim (that was used for my fender) and added to the edge for more protection.
I then zip-tied the quick disconnect to the Bumper's Tail Gate.
Next I wanted to determine which color wiring I need to hook up to the Trailer Harness Converter.
I found that the following works for this Hoppy Converter:
GROUND: Black (L-P) goes to the White (Converter)
BRAKE: Green (L-P) goes to Brown (Converter)
TURN: Red (L-P) goes to Green (Converter).
And here is the end result.
Next was finishing bolting up the bumper and all nuts / bolts has Locktite-blue on the threads.
Size used: (4) 1/2-13x2 inch Grade 8 nuts and bolts.
The holes are used when I had my Reese Trailer Hitch.
Well...I been wanting to change out the breather that is located on the rear axle assembly...I read up on different versions that people have done, mainly the gas line to filter and having it located either at the gas fill door or in the engine compartment.
I was really close of going that route...but I remembered seeing a breather replacement by Trail Gear-click here.
It is called the Creeper-Breather = $19 (April 2008).
No lines to run.
Just clean the area around the stock breather of dirt.
- you do not want anything to fall into the differential that could cause harm out on the trails.
Remove the old stock breather.
Install new breather brass nipple
Slip-on the rubber bellows - make sure the retention clip is already onto the bellows.
Sit back and admire what you did less than 10-mins!
Photo below: Three items from Trail-Gear (brass nipple, rubber bellows and a retention clip) - tools required is an adjustable wrench or 14-mm wrench and pliers.
Photo below: stock breather on axle assembly
Photo below: stock breather removed.
Photo below: brass nipple installed...note DO NOT tighten all the way down flush..the thread is a pipe thread and allow about 1-thread exposed.
...ISSUE # 2:
Next was the Hi-Lift...oops..the bolts do not line up to the holes already on the Hi-Lift!
Now, I see that the body of the Hi-Lift holder is too low and it interferes with the main body of the Hi-Lift, even when the lift is all the way to the base. Looks like I will need to get a grinder.
Even though the upper bolt is a floater, it does not float vertically enough and the bottom bolt was short from clearing the hole.
The distance from the top of the plate (that the Hi-Lift rests on) to the center of the bolt is 11-3/16"
I think I will stay with JFab's original Hi-Lift holder, until I can get this one modified to work.
Well while visiting JFab in San Marcos, I borrowed his grinder and removed the current mount that CBI had for the Hi-Lift...the portion I removed was what was holding the two carriage bolts. I left the main body in place.
Basically, I drilled two new holes and used nuts, bolts and washers to now hold the Hi-Lift in place. The thread size is 1/2-13.
In the near future, I plan to machine two large spacers to remove the washers stack that I used. With a larger spacer, I can use a longer bolt and drill a hole into it for a pad-lock. But that will be later on...I am happy that this works.
Cost at that time $500 for the box, bed rail and bed bar.
Gage of steel = 16 GA
Weight = unloaded I can lift in and out by myself.
Size = 58.5 Wide x 14 Long x 10.5 Deep
Powdercoated Black.
Today I went up to JFab's shop in San Marcos, Texas to view and install my brand new custom made tool box, bed rail and bed bar. What can I say the workmanship is FIRST RATE! :xrocker: The install was fast and straight forward. It all fits like a glove. The box is mounted on a bed rail and has tie downs at key locations. In addition there is a Bed Bar that has a mount for my Hi-Lift. The whole unit was powdercoated black with a rough texture. The box was spec'ed by me to have a shallow depth, so I could get things in and out easily. Plus have a space below the box, makes it easy to slide long things in place with out it hanging out of the bed too far (i.e. 2x4's). I plan to mount lights on the bar in the future and soon mount my bike rack mount on it. My bike rack only holds the forks of the bike. A few holes here and there for the mounting bolts and a few more photos and thank you's and off I was with new goodies in the bed of my Yota!
As I mentioned in a previous post, I learned of JFab's shop and tool box on a different post where he had his old purchased box (made of steel too) was broken into and all his tools were swiped! After a few emails, I learned his shop was in San Marcos Texas and only a few miles away from my place of work - - BONUS! I drove up to meet him and discuss his box. Well as you know I was sold. We were always in touch via email or phone for any details that he thought I need to know or have my truck to see if things are fitting the way he designed it to be. Well the photos and my words can not express the excellent work, now I need to think of the things I want to place into the box for safe keeping. Below are a few photos, but I will have the write up and more photos on my website for everyone to view.
So if you want a killer tool box or bed rail or bed bar, I highly suggest you to give Jfab a private email for a quote. But if you want to view this piece of art, drop me a line and if you are in the San Antonio, Texas area, we can meet up near by! THANKS AGAIN TO JFAB for a GREAT PRODUCT! :welder:
EDIT: I had to update the pic, because I have closed down my old website (z3power.net).
Here are a few photos of Jayce's tool box that he made for himself.
The following is my build and final product.
This is how it it bolted to the bed rails.
The nuts are welded to the bed rails... and the bolts are unbolted from the inside of the box.
This makes it very difficult to steal.
The top is held up with just a square post.
I originally used the Bed Rack to transport my Litespeed Tsali
Or at that time my Hi-Lift - before I bought my CBI bumper
I now use it to hold my shovel and axe when I wheel.
Note that the Axe's edge faces downward when I actually mount it.
The only maintenance I have done over the years was lubrication on the hinges and knocking off some paint that has broken off at the hinge area (due to heavy use). Overall the powder coat has held up over the past 6 years very well. It can be repainted easily.
This is THE BEST tool box anyone can purchase.
I highly recommend this.
edit: Adding this hyperlink from TTORA member Crazy Geologist. He has compiled a list of great information and manufacturers.
So before you deciede on sliders, check out his thread. TTORA - Slider information - click here
Cost at that time $500 for the box, bed rail and bed bar.
Well after waiting for my sliders from CBI, who by the way ROCKS! :xrocker: , they arrived via DHL, who by the way SUCKS! :xsmash: , arrived 4 days late and to the WRONG ADDRESS!!!!!!
It was sent to a home to the same sub-division, but 2-blocks away!
Well after dragging it home, I will plan to install it tomorrow or the next day.
From the photo you can see how LLLOOONNNGGG she is. These sliders are way wider than my Z3!!!
When I unwrapped the sliders, I thought for a second to see if I could mount them onto my Z3, unfortunately, as you can see the length of the sliders would hit my tires, plus the height of the sliders is greater than the ground clearance of my Z3. My Z3's ground clearance is a stagering 3-inchs max. Oh well, guess I will have to mount them onto my truck as planned.
Required tools:
Electric Drill
9/16" drill bit
12-mm socket head or wrench
11/16-inch and 5/8-inch socket heads & rachet
11/16-inch and 5/8-inch open-end wrenchs
Long Stem Straight Screw Driver
Floor jack
Two adjustable car stands
Hammer
Blue LOCTITE
Safety Glasses
The installation was done completely by myself. The amount of time it took was 4.5-hours. It would have been slightly easier if I had an extra set of hands, but it really is not totally necessary. THE ASSEMBLY STEPS SHOWN BELOW ARE FOR THE DRIVER SIDE ONLY and the underside was almost free of mud & debris.
Steve verified that the current angle of the sliders and Clamp-ons would fit the 2001 Double Cabs with no changes other than the overall length.
I also had Steve paint the sliders the color black that you see here.
Step 1) Unwrap the sliders and NOTE the locations of the Nuts, bolts and spacers. The bolts and spacers for the FRONT of the sliders are LONGER than any other. The reason for this is that the frame's box section near the transmission cross beam is wider than the sections as it goes towards the rear. Also take note of a seperately baged of self taping screws and TWO short spacers. The screws will be used to anchor the sliders to the frame and the two short spacers are used to help prevent the brake line and emergency brake line from kinking.
Step 2) Unscrew the bolts for the brake lines and emergency brake cable. The reason for this is to allow the slider's Clamp-on's to slide between the frame section and the brake lines and e-brake cable.
Step 3) Using the screw driver, you will need to dismount a the brake lines from a plastic holder, that is on the frame.
Step 4) Using a floor jack, place the slider (mid-way) Clamp-on section at the head of the jack (I should not need to tell you to make sure you know which way is front and rear for the sliders - - right?). One thing, when mounting these, place the forward most Clamp-on behind the transmission brace. Butt it up to the weld joint - as close as possible.
Step 5) Slowly position the floor jack and slider under the truck and start pumping.
Step 6) As the slider gets near the frame, stop and visually see if you need to reposition any of the Clamp-on sections, so it cups the frame as shown in the photo.
Step 7) Once all of the slider Clamp-on sections is engaged onto the frame, pump so that the slider goes up another 1-2 inches and stop.
Step 8) This time you need to use the screw driver to help pull the brake lines away from the frame, so that the slider's Clamp-on will slide between the tubing and the frame. I suggest that if you are doing this install by yourself, pump the jack a few times and then visually inspect to ensure the brake tubing and any other item is properly positioned.
Step 9) Once you have fully pushed the sliders all the way into the Clamp-on, release the floor jack, so the head will drop a couple inches below the Clamp-on. Move the floor jack over and take one of the car stands and position it under the Clamp-on that the floor jack was at.
Step 10) Take the floor jack and position it at one of the far ends of the slider's Clamp-on. The reason for this is to help "walk" the slider onto the frame and allow the Clamp-on to bottom out onto the frame. You might need to use your arms or your foot to help ease it in.
Step 11) Continue this on the oppersite side and then place two car stands to keep the sliders up in position.
Step 12) Take the floor jack and go to one end of the slider, and apply pressure onto the Clamp-on. From here you need to now modify Four of the spacer tubes, to make it easier to slide the bolts through the set of holes on the sliders. The reason for this is that the frame's height on my truck varied and this variance caused a mis-alignment of the bolt holes, when I was trying to bolt the unit on. This only happened on the two middle Clamp-ons, for both sides, the rears and fronts were fine. Below is how I did the modification of the spacers.
Step 13) Find a hard edge, maybe a concrete edge of the driveway (which I used) or some other very hard surface say a table vice clamp.
Step 14) Take the hammer and a bolt and spacer and place the spacer all the way to the head of the bolt.
Step 15) Using the hammer, start pounding from the head side of the bolt (see the RED "V"). This will cause the spacer to deform around the bolt. Because the bolt's threads do not go all the way to the head, the threads will not be damaged, unless you miss!
Step 16) Do this ONLY ON ONE EDGE of the spacer. Continue the pounding until the end of the spacer. The spacer should look OVAL like this when you are completed.
Step 17) Now it is time to install the nuts, washers, bolts and spacers. Starting at the same location as your floor jack, partially slide the nut with the washer through the first flange of the Clamp-on. Then you will need to take the spacer and thread the bolt through it and then the other Clamp-on flange (view the diagram).
Step 18) Before threading on the nut, I used some BLUE LOCKTITE, to have another level of insurance that the Nut will not back off, during one of my wheeling trips.
Step 19) Continue this same to the other mating bolt, washer, nut and spacer on the same Clamp-on.
Step 20) Once completed, lower your floor jack and go to the next Clamp-on and raise the floor jack to apply pressure to the bottom of the Clamp-on.
Step 21) Repeat the same bolting of the Clamp-on. Do this for the remaining Clamp-ons for the slider.
Step 22) Once completed, the next step is to drill and install the self-tapping screw. I took and positioned the floor jack at the middle of the slider and raised the truck a couple inches and positioned floor jacks at the ends of the slider, but NOT on the actual Clamp-ons. This is to give you some easier access to drill the hole underneath.
Step 23) First using a High Speed Steel drill bit of 9/16-inch, using the hole provided at the BOTTOM of the Clamp-on, I drilled a hole.
Step 24) Take the self-tapping screw and engage it into the hole and then remove it.
Step 25) Take the BLUE LOCKTITE adhesive and apply to the threads of the screw and re-install and bolt it down tight.
Step 26) Repeat this process for the remaining Clamp-on sections.
Step 27) Now it is time to finish the job by reattaching the brake line and e-brake holders to the frame. Using the spacers provided place them BETWEEN the bracket and the frame.
Step 28) One thing that I found was on the forward most brake line, even with the spacer installed, the brake line was rubbing against the end of the bolt. The brake line bracket started out as a right angle bracket, but I bent it to 135 degrees as shown.
Step 29) Also you will find, at least for my truck, that the brake lines that were removed from the Plastic Holders will not snap back into the proper locations as before. This is OKAY. Now that the HARD side is completed, the passenger side is way easier, because there were nothing to remove or modify from the truck.
Step 30) Once completed, check all bolts and allow the LOCKTITE to cure over night and then go out and wheel that SUCKA!
Well my CBI Frame reinforcements are installed - - after a month of not able of hooking up with JFAB.
The CBI frame reinforcement plates cost $79 + shipping.
Well some things of note, the longest plate is too long , I believe these were made to fit Tacomas (reg, extra, DC) up to 2004? I will check with Steve of CBI on this. Anyways, the actual install was not hard at all. We had to first cut the long plate shorter, then on the driver side we had to notch a corner to allow it to fit around a bracket. That same bracket is not on the passener side. But there are mounts there that looks to allow a bracket to fit there for our over-the-sea HiLux friends.
The first thing of business after jacking the truck up and pulling the wheels off, was to remove the paint of the frame, let me tell you that paint is THICK and very tough to remove. I first tried it with a wire brush on a die-grinder and that took forever! I then switched to a adbrasive disk and that did the trick.
Jayce cut the plate and notched it.
BEFORE WELDING - - We covered the fuel tank & fuel line and electrial wires with wet rags, to keep things a little cool
He clamped on the plates to tack weld the plate into place.
He then filled in the holes.
He then stitch welded about 5-inches at a time, at different places. He would say do one end of the plate, then switch to the oppersite end/side, to allow the original weld to cool down. This does two things, one, it prevents excessive warpage to the frame and plate. Second it keeps the fuel tank from getting too hot.
One thing that made sure was that when welding the two plates that are adjacent to one another, he left at least an 1/2-inch gap. This way he is welding the plates to the frame and not to the plate. So in the end, the weld will form a V-shape valley.
After everything was welded and scrubbed down of scale and burnted paint, I painted it to prevent corrosion.
The only thing that was not expected, was the last plate that goes towards the tail end of the frame was not installed. Because my current set up has the stock bumper and tow hitch. This set up would make us drastically cut up the reinforcement plate to make it work. So I opted to hold off until I change my rear bumper out.
Many thanks goes to Steve for an excellent product and to Jayce (JFab), the master welder!
Note that after talking with Steve at CBI, it was determined that the plates that was shipped was NOT for the Double Cab Taco, but for the extended cab version.
One last note the third plate that is welded onto the end of the frame was added when I was installing the CBI Rear Bumper.
Here is the detailed install of my suspension that I mentioned in the first post.
Post date: Oct 7, 2007
Below is my famous sticky on IFS suspension, discussing how I thought about and determining how I ordered my suspension system.
Read, answer and learn.
After a year of wheeling & DD'ing for nearly 80,000 miles: it was time to do some serious upgrading of the suspension, I have been keeping tabs and reading the so many threads on different messageboards for the different systems out there.
Below are the questions and links I used to read and understand the different systems and opinions.
1) How much are you willing to spend
2) What type of off roading are you going to do
3) What type of driver are you
4) Is your truck a DD or trailer rig
5) Do you plan to haul stuff and how much
6) Did your wife/gf approve the purchase
I will state this, I too thought of going the low cost way of AAL, spacers and shocks...but after really thinking of it and what I want to do with the truck - I held off on the purchase to save up the money necessary to do my truck right. I am one of the guys that hate to do things more than once. If it takes a little inconvenience for a little bit of time to get real capable stuff - - it is worth it for me for that pain of waiting.
That should be it...but read, learn, listen and if possible, ride with some guys that have different systems to see how they like it and how it handles.
I opted for the coil overs and leafs...not yet ready to do the SAC, though maybe one day I may do it...after researching for close to 6-months, I picked Donahoe shocks, Total Chaos UCAs, Timbren Bump stops and Alcan-8s as what will grace my under body!
EDIT: In case you are wondering about "airbag / airlift suspensions"
Here are some links that will help.
There are two main players - Firestone and Airlift.
Airbag/airlift systems are for mainly used for heavy hauling purposes.
Or level loading of any loads you may be hauling or pulling on your tow hitch.
*****
Well yesterday, Adam and I installed the majority of my suspension.
I will not bore you with the details of the install, because WE DID NOT TAKE PHOTOS. I wanted to get the stuff installed. There are better write ups out there, but there were some items that should be noted for future people that are looking to install an aftermarket suspension system.
So here goes.
We started the install from the rear first, figured it was the easiest.
The only thing to note was I rerouted the e-brake cable, that is nested between the gas tank's mounting strap to be located outside of it and downward. I then added a plastic wire sheath around it to help protect it from rubbing, I might change that out later with something more durable or thicker.
Stock Location of E-brake cable:
Rerouted E-brake cable:
Plastic sheath around E-brake cable:
During the install of the extended brake line, it was a bitch to install the factory clip into the new brake line. It seem to take forever!
Tech tip is to remove the brake line's bracket that is mounted to the frame rail. Makes it slightly easier to tighten down the line and hook up the clips.
Stock Brake Line:
Extended Brake Line:
DON"T FORGET TO BLEED YOUR BRAKE LINES!
Here are the remaining photos of the bump stops, leafs and shackles installed.
For the rear shackles, I opted to have the grease ports inboard of the truck.
Installing the new Timbren bump stops was easy. To align it to the bottom centering bolt of the leafs, you will need to use a jack to dry cycle the suspension to see where it centers. On my rig, the bumps made more sense to be located rearward.
Other than that, all other components went in with out much fuss.
On to the front suspension.
I opted to not install at this time my TC UCA's and to wait until my rear Hoe Reserves Shocks arrive, which is still on backorder since Aug 2!!!!
After removing the wheels, we used the bottle jack to force the suspension system downward. This was to allow us to remove and install the shocks with no hassle. This is WAY easier than it should be.
The Timbren bump stops went in first. We picked the front factory stops to be replaced, there are two factory bump stops on the lower control arm. There was nothing in the installation instructions to say which one to replace.
I just finished communication with Wheelers and the location I stated for the FRONT Bump Stops for the Timbren should replace the factory bump stops that are CLOSEST to the front doors!!!!!
I had mine installed wrong!
Note, no where on Wheeler's or Timbren website or instructions state this...
I will be fixing mine tonight and will post a pic showing how it is installed.
Photo below is when I had the stops mounted in the front.
Photo below is when I had the stops mounted correctly in the REAR.
Note you leave the factory bumpstops in the front of the Timbrens.
Also note that, I have removed my swaybar since I took this photo.
One thing to note is the two sized bushings that are zipped tied to the Hemi of the shock needs to be placed in the correct location.
The shorter bushing (on the left) is always located towards the front of the truck, while the longer bushing (on the right) is always located towards the rear of the truck.
Bushing's installed (this is from the driver side of the truck):
Measurements taken from Ground to bottom edge of fender flare.
As for dimensions:
Past Front Measurement = 34.5-inches
Past Rear Measurement = 35.5-inches
New Front Measurement = 37-inches (with 1.125 inches of thread showing).
New Rear Measurement = 37.5-inches (with stock shocks - - for now).
I will leave it like that for now, until I get the UCA and rear shocks installed, then I can crank up the front shocks higher. THANKS TO ADAM for helping me!
ps: the exhaust was cut earlier by yours truly!:saw:
****Waiting, waiting and more waiting****
Well after well over a month of waiting - - since August 2...the last piece of my suspension arrived!
Off goes the rear shocks...
On goes my new Donahoe Signature Reserves
Then tighten down everything.
If you are wondering why the driver side rear shock's reserve is on the side of the main body, it is due to the pressure sensor of my air tank, was in the way. It will have to stay that way, until I get a pressure sensor that is shorter.
I made sure that the reserves cylinders' supply nipple to be at the base of the main shock. This way, if the shock bottomed out, there would a low chance of the nipple or cylinder being damaged.
Now, I have to do is to install my TC UCA...can you say WAT!?!
Plan to do it after the Halloween Run. So it will be early November.
I will let you all know.
I have been debating between epoxy and tiled floor.
The good about epoxy - - looks great, lasts a long time, chemical resistant, water resistant.
The bad about epoxy - - EXPENSIVE, long prep time, if done wrong - delamination, chips if you drop something heavy, patching looks bad.
The good about tile - - cheaper than epoxy, lasts a long time, easy to replace damaged tiles, chemical resistant.
The bad about tile - - will allow liquids to seep between the tiles to the concrete floor.
I have dealt with commercial grade epoxy when renovating our machine shop and injection molding floor back in SC. Loved the stuff, but it was super expensive. I had someone quote our current 3 car garage and it came to near $4000!!!
I also knew about tiled floors by RaceDECK from my racing magazines. I too had them quote and they were under $1900.
In the end the tiles won and the order was placed directly to Race Deck.
Less than a week later something was left at the garage by UPS...
Peeking inside the box exposed this...
If every thing goes well during the install, it should turn out like this below...
The next day I started laying the tiles and noticed that I did not notice any RED tiles?!?!....I counted the boxes and I had to stop laying the tiles down, UPS did not deliver two of my containers from RaceDeck....they claim they were confused about the address?!!?
Damn they delivered 10 of the 12 containers of the tiles...
Plus they called three times to get directions...I just don't get it...
Anyways, I plan to be in SA tomorrow and I will stop by the UPS shipping facility to get my two boxes.
Idots...and i use to work for them back in the day.....oh well.
Cindy has been taking some pics of me laying the stuff down, super easy...but to center the tiles, I will be trimming three inches on the left side tiles and three inches on the right side tiles, so that the RED tiles will line up in the center of my garage.
Yep I am picky on that stuff...I want to finish the floor this coming Saturday...inbetween keeping myself cool with a cold one or two or three!
:beer:
That Saturday I finished the double stacked side of the garage..looks great. Still waiting for my final two boxes to show up...someday.
I will try to get it from UPS tomorrow, between lunch.
That Monday...more on the on going UPS story...well they still have not shipped my remaining two boxes to me...
they now want me to come and pick the stuff up...I wanted to try today, but Cindy and I were in the middle of directing the movers from our old place to the new place.
Now our place has big brown boxes all over!
So it looks like I will be getting my stuff this Monday (?)
I called UPS to find out where the warehouse is and they say it's on Seven State Street.
I asked is there a land mark or something I could reference?
They said they can not do that...because the people I was talking to was from FLORIDA ! -- WTF.
So all they could do is tell me turn by turn directions...almost like a Tom-Tom.
What really sucks other than missing the two boxes, those two boxes have my red tiles and my front edge tiles.
Which I need to really get my tiles lined up.
So my tiles sit - waiting to be driven on....until a later date...this sucks.
Then Tuesday, I was able to find the missing containers, almost as worse as the airlines. I started the final side Wednesday.
Today, I finished the floor - sort of!
After taking a swig of beer...
Then laying our the final tiles...
I used my bandsaw to cut the tiles to fit into the odd shaped areas.
You could use a jig saw or table saw.
Remember this is plastic, so when pushing the material thru the saw blade, go slow.
The faster you go, the blade will heat up and will melt the plastic behind the blade or heat the chips up to make it stick to the cut edge.
To trim the shavings, I have a deburring tool (I use to work for plastics injection molding company) that I used to remove the shavings...you could use a box cutter.
And with that the cutting and hammering of the tiles...they were all laid.
Next on the list is the cabinets and work table.
Looking at LISTA tool mobile cabinet and some other cabinets to store stuff. That will be another thread.
Day 1:
As you may have known, I had placed an order for new cabinets for my garage...after a month of waiting...they have arrived Sept 5 (Fri).
So after getting a Penske Rental truck with a Lift Gate...I headed over to Yellow Freight...
That is only TWO of the SIX Pallets that I picked up.
Not including a new work top for my table and a box of misc stuff from LISTA.
After a few hours of unloading them from the truck and breaking down the pallets....
I have placed the three major pieces in their proper place.
Sorry nothing yet inside them.
The remaining two cabinets that sit on top of two against the wall, will be installed Saturday.
Below is a photo of my new mobile tool chest.
Once I get the next two cabinets mounted...I will post additional photos.
Oh and the garage will be cleaned out more, after filling my cabinets up with my junk of spare parts from my Tacoma, BMWs and my bicycle ... oh yeah, and my tools.
Day 2:
Well with the help of Adam, Leslie, Cindy and two construction workers...we were able to lift into place the final two pieces of the cabinets.
The following cabinets shown have adjustable shelving.
The bottom cabinet has roll out shelving.
Thanks again and I will post up picks of the garage, once it get organized, my Craftsman tool box gets emptied and our two cars get to park inside again. Hope to get this completed this month.
Oh yeah - incase any one is wondering, YES the top and bottom cabinets are bolted together. I also will be anchoring the bottom to the concrete flooring.
I bought Off Road Solutions' RED High Angle CV Boots @ $ 49.95 each....yep each.
These are made differently than the stock versions, the fins are angled differently to allow the adjacent fin not to rub so much together.
In addition, because the ORS High Angle CV Boot is used on all types of CV's...these DO NOT have the Tulip Shapes, where you clamp.
So you would have to use cut off the original boot sealing flange and slide the ORS High Angle CV Boot over it, prior to clamping down.
After removing the dust cap, you will remove the Lock Nut. The Torque required to reassemble is 174 ft #.
Then you need to remove the 4 Bolts under the Lower Control Arm's Lower Ball Joint. The Torque required to reassemble is 58 ft #.
Now you can slide the Spindle off the Axle....move toward the rear of the truck.
So you can have room to maneuver out the CV Assembly.
Break the Inner most CV Boot's metal strap...this is helping keep it in place.
You will then be able to wiggle out the assembly.
Cut off the boot, without cutting the Tulip Shaped end of the boot.
You will now need to clean off the CV assembly and remove the Tulip Bearing.
This is a roller bearing that rides and supports a great amount of moment and weight while the truck is in motion.
SO DO NOT WACK on the bearings, when you are removing it from the axle.
Use a center punch....it will slide off.
There are two retention clips...you need to slide down the large one that is under the Tulip Bearing...this one is a bitch to do...it is very heavy duty.
Then slide down the Tulip bearing to expose the smaller retention clip.
Remove...
The rest of the work is very easy...
clean...clean...clean...clean....
Then repack with grease...there are 4 packs.
So use two per boot.
The longest part of this maintenance was trying to slide the new CV Boot onto the remaining portion of the old CV Boot's Tulip shaped end.
With all the grease...it was hard to get a handle.
Remember to burp the boot - - to release any excess air.
You want to make sure that the boot does not expand or collapse from it's natural shape during any articulation of the CV assembly.
You can cycle the assembly, before clamping the whole thing.
To clamp them you need to use a crimper tool, that can be found at most autoparts stores.
But you will find that most of us, including me, use the old reusable worm drive hose clamp.
The only thing is that you could tighten it too tight and cut into the rubber.
On my install, I used the hose clamp, but trimmed off the extra material, so it will not be flying around and potentially cut any of the rubber if bent back.
That's about it....oh yeah...remember to check your bolts after a weeks of driving.
I will be checking on all my bolts and clamps this weekend....about 350 miles later.
Well...after buying these Goodridge brakes about 6-months ago...I felt it was time to install them.
These are DOT approved/tested brake lines.
In case you are wondering...DOT brake lines are 100% Tested before packaging.
I have current experience with Goodridge Brake Lines....I first installed them in my 2000 Z3 and then again for the rear application for my Tacoma truck.
They are stainless steel braided and sheathed in rubber. Goodridge website-usa
Well today I headed over to Americana Off-Road in San Antonio, off Rt-281. AmericanaOff-road.com
It was part of the TLCA WAT.
We all had a fun time wrenching....and eating!
Before you start, make sure you have something to capture the drippings of the brake fluid.
Anyways...the removal is quite easy at the banjo nut.
But the C-clip at the truck's frame was a BITCH to remove.
Good knuckle busters.
Anyways...after removing, reinstall and tighten down.
Now the fun part...bleeding the brakes.
YOU have two choices...
Get a power bleeder like Motive.
Or enlist a friend like Josh (Land Cruiser owner).
I opted for the friend-aide!
Steps to bleed.
- find bleeder nut & 10-mm wrench.
- remove rubber dust cover
- remove cover from m/c reservoir.
Starting at the passenger rear brake.
- Driver Says "Open" or "unbolt"
- Wrencher opens/unbolts bleeder nut (but only to loosen not remove).
- Wrencher says "Open" or "unbolt"
- Driver depress brake pedal
- Wrencher watches fluid exits and capture in a torn open alum. can.
- Driver Says "Close" or "tighten"
- Wrencher closes/tightens bleeder nut.
- Wrencher say "Close" or "tighten"
- Driver releases brake pedal
- Repeat about 5-times...this depends if you are totally replacing the fluid or removing air from the system.
Do this again for the Driver rear brake.
Do this again for the Proportioning Valve.
CHECK Brake Fluid Level - fill if necessary.
Do this again for the Passenger FRONT brake.
Do this again for the Driver FRONT brake.
CHECK Brake Fluid Level, one last time and fill if needed.
That's about it...remember to wash your hands afterwords...and keep the brake fluid off any painted surface...it will dissolve it!
Plus reinstall those rubber boots on the bleeder nuts and cap your M/C Reservoir.
Not much has happened on clearing out the garage of the boxes that was moved from our ol' home. One of the bedrooms is being converted into a Craft/Office Room with new cabinets. So all the stuff that goes into there is still in the garage and our two Bimmers are out on the driveway.
Here is the current project in the home...
The cabinets will be a distressed look.
I get a small section for our computer...while Cindy gets the rest.
Note I am not doing this most excellent work.
They still have to finish the painting and flooring and finishing touches.
THe designers said about two weeks.
Anyways back to the garage, not sure if I mentioned this, but when I had removed the packaging from my Mobile Cabinet, I noticed a dent at the corner.
It did not affect the function of the drawers or lock.
But I called Lista Tool Boxes.com, whom I purchased them from, and they said they will order a replacement and schedule a pick up/delivery.
WOW! I was impressed - what customer service.
If you do get stuff from them, both Charles and Leslie are great in communications and answering questions.
It is now ready to accept my tools from my ol' Craftsman box.
Hope to get started on it this weekend.
Still have to wait for the tool organizers - - placed on my Christmas wish list. :thumbup:
That's it for now...still need to empty the garage of the boxes....soon soon...
edit:
I have been slowing filling up my Lista cabinets of tools and spare parts and equipment.
Plus Cindy gave me this kick ass sign for my garage...
Soon after the installation of my suspension, it was time to get something from Roger Brown (4crawler.com).
I purchased his Body Lift at 1-inch with heavy duty hardware.
Well this morning with Adam, we were able to knock out the install of the Roger Brown 1-inch body lift.
(4 Crawler Offroad Products-BL click here!)
The reason for this size was simple for me. I did not want to deal with extending the gas filler tube and the radiator. With the 1-inch, the only thing I really needed was the steering spacer and body lift spacers.
$172
> * UHMW_PE fiber blocks
> * Colored BLACK (option)
> * Ultimate option
> * Grade 8 hardware (option)
> * Steering shaft extender
> * Radiator
> * Bed Spacers (option - so I can still carry heavy loads in my bed of the truck).
plus $15 for insured shipping.
I think if I bought the "normal version" it might had costed $ 122 + shipping.
If you do go for it, email Roger and give him the specs of your truck (suspension, bumper, etc) and he will tell you the cost break down. He responded really quickly.
FYI - we did NOT use the radiator spacer. Not required, unless you run more than an 1-inch body lift.
We were able to finish the install well under 3 hours.
We did the bed first, but did not tightened any thing until the front was done. Photo below is stock bed set up.
Photo below is bed with spacers installed.
This way we were able to align both bodies.
One tech tip is that the (4) washers and split washers will be reused for interior's bolts for the Cab. The front two new bolts will use the press fitted washer that was on the stock front bolts.
One other tech tip is when you take the bolts off the UPPER STEERING LINKAGE, it was easier with a knuckle adapter for the socket wrench.
You will also need to unloosen the bolt that is connected to the adjustable clamp located on the upper steering linkage (it is on the piece that is casted and black) - see photos.
Photo below shows the steering linkage disassembled.
Photo below shows the spacer installed.
We also used Red bottle LOCTite to ensure no nut or bolt will back off - - yes the Heavy Duty Grade 8 Nuts and Bolts come with the plastic Lock Nut.
After the install we fitted Adam's spare 33-inch mud tires, the only place that it rubbed was at the pinch weld area.
Of course we do know that at full stuff it is most likely will also rub else where, so before I get new larger tires, I will have my TC UCA's installed and the pinch welds fixed :saw:
I still have to install the Bed's support spacers.
I plan to do that tomorrow. That will be a simple drill and screw in the self tapping screw with the support spacers. They are made out of metal.
I will post those pics when I am completed.
Again - THANKS TO Adam! I owe you a meal!
Any ways new tires and wheels will come next year.
11/11/07 edit:
Installed the Bed Spacer ($12) today, took two drill bits, a 1/8" then a 3/16", did the pilot hole with the 1/8, then finished off with the 3/16. I then using the self tapping screw, I generated the threads. I removed the screw then used JB Weld to permanently anchor both the screw and the spacer to the frame. The finish product is below.
I also had to modify my Gas Filler Cover.
Remove the gas cap.
Unbolt the plastic cover and remove from filler tube.
Cut off rubber backing.
Trim between 4 to 7 oclock position.
Current Specs :
1999 Tacoma Single Cab.
2.7L 5Speed 4X4 with Marlin Crawler 1200# clutch
5.29's and Lockright lockers front and rear.
OME 882's/ N91's (Front) and Allpro 3's/ 10" Bilstien 5150's (Rear)
315/75/R16 Goodyear MTR Kevlars on American Eagle Alloy Series 101 16x8's with 3.75...
I own a 94 4runner with a blown engine but a solid frame and I have the opportunity to a very cheap rotted out 98 Tacoma with a solid 3rz, trans and t-case. I am wondering if anyone knows about the motor mount situation and if I need to fab my own or can I buy them somewhere?
Xtra Cab 99 Taco Build
Hey here is my 1999 Tacoma extra cab sr5 4wd. Here is a picture from when i first got the truck
Then took it wheelin shortly after to see what it could do:
-4cyl 2.7L engine
I’m so glad I added another gas tank to my truck I don’t just have one gas tank I now have 2 and I haven’t filled my truck up since 4 weeks ago and I still haven’t filled it up that’s my Tacoma on a big lift and big big tires and I have 4.10s
Well I bought this truck in Feb after a long search for an 85 ext cab.
The truck was in pretty awesome shape for being 25 years old. It had some goodies on it as well R151 tranny, Marlin 4.7's in a single 23spl case, AP TC skid, Marlin Rear bumper and a pretty fresh rebuild on the 22RE...
TTORA forum is the best Toyota off-road club around. We are nation wide with chapters in most states. Come in and discuss Tacoma, 4Runner, Highlander, & TRD models.
