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Just completed a head gasket repair on a 98 V6, the oil pressure switch was flickering at idle so I attached a pressure gauge tester- pressure was low at idle (hard to read on a cheap gauge) and barely spec at 3k rpms. So I did an additional oil change (I did do a dump of the oil after completing the head gasket) and pressure went up above spec and no idiot light even when i use the clutch to hold the engine at 500 rpms. Only thing I can think of is I used almost a whole can of wd40 to clean the pistons and the first cold oil change did not remove all of it.

So I know I'm on borrowed time on this truck (275k miles). I have been running 5W-30 amsoil forever but I think I should bump up to 10W-30 which is Ok by the manual for mild climates.

Do you think 10w-40 would be pushing it? These low viscosity oils are mostly for mileage but of course bearing tolerances also reflect the low viscosity.

Thanks
 

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2001 DDSB Tacoma, 2002 4Runner with bumpers and lift, 2008 Rav4
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The 5W origional oil was for mileage as you say. 10W was listed as OK as well. I’d go to 10w40 and purchase an oil specificly for high mileage engines. They have additives to help with seal leakage, viscosity, and cleaning. BTW I have always bought the cheapest oil available and run my vehicles to 200K-300K and in my 55 years of owning them I have never had an engine issue that needed any disassembly. High priced oil may be better but oil that meets the engineering specifications of an engine is sufficient. I have had about 100 engines in that time many for 25+ years. I now have a 59 BMW R60 M/C 75K miles, ’95 Miata 108K, 2001 Tacoma 246K, 2002 4runner 242K, etc. Oil and filter changes at 5,000 miles is more important than oil price.
If it’s producing sufficient pressure and is quiet I don’t understand thinking it’s on borrowed time. Service it, up the oil viscosity and drive it. These engines often go 300K miles. You have lots of miles left IMHO.
 
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