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Discussion Starter #1
I have a tacoma with a 3rz and I was wondering if these two black houses are what you disconnect from the TB and connect together. If so what size fitting do I use?
 

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No proven gains in yanking that out.
What are You hoping to achieve ?

It's there to help REGULATE throttle intake IDLE air bypass, and to keep the TB from FREEZING shut during extended driving in colder climates.

Remove it if you want to clean up the engine compartment, or make throttle body removal easier, but to say that this mod gives you any performance gains is laughable.


But, YES those are the hoses to bypass...

You can get "caps" and completely remove the bypass hoses. If You REALLY think that will do whatever You are hoping..
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for confirming. I'm not too worried about freezing over considering where I love and its basically summer now. I think I'll still try it for the hell of it but cap the TB so I can keep it clean in the case I honestly dont like it. but thanks again for confirming.
 

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Or....



You could unplug the ECM and put a Carburetor on it, just bypass the WHOLE EFI system ??



:flamethro:flamethro:flamethro:flamethro:flamethro:flamethro:flamethro
 

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You're missing the fact that the Idle Air Control Valve relies on coolant temperature to regulate air flow.

It's an automatic choke, it opens when coolant is cold, and closes when coolant is hot.

Ever started cold and you're engine idles high for a bit? Or start you're car warm and it idles normal? that's the IAC doing its job off of coolant temperature.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok well thank you for that info. I obviously had no idea. so lets say I only bypass during the summer considering its always over 100 around here.
 

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You could put a small manual valve on the feed side.

But dissabling it serves no perpose what so ever and can be more trouble some on cold morning especially if you have auto trans.
I would think heat exchange through the rest of the throttlebody would be minimal but if your worried about heat transfer then a 1/8-3/16 insolator spacer between the throttlebody and the upper intake manafold would have better results.
 

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touch your throttle body sometime while the engine is warm to see how warm it actually is. if you can cool the throttle body by a few degrees, you'll be cooling the air coming into the engine by a small fraction of that.

if you really want some cheap and easy power, be a man and get yourself a nitrous bottle, sprayer, some lines and a solenoid.
 

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touch your throttle body sometime while the engine is warm to see how warm it actually is. if you can cool the throttle body by a few degrees, you'll be cooling the air coming into the engine by a small fraction of that.

if you really want some cheap and easy power, be a man and get yourself a nitrous bottle, sprayer, some lines and a solenoid.
Not to derail but saw a show where a guy did that to his TT and put two sprayers onto his intercooler and got quite a bit HP gain from just using the nitrous to cool incoming air and not directly into the engine.
You by chance seen anyone do that on a taco?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I like the insulation idea. Where would I go about getting some? Napa or kragen? And what kind of limb would the nitrous cost? Its just the fact that you couldn't freely use it without running out that would be a big downside
 

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Constant duty Nitrous? :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I honestly dont know a single thing about nitrous kits. Always thought it was a one time use thing that ricers often use. Never really looked into it. What would something like that cost? And what downsides does out have? Increased engine wear? Lower mpg?
 

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I fought the idea of a TRD supercharger for a while, thinking "I want something original." I looked at STS tailpipe turbo(check Clownmeat on Pirate if you like that idea), other turbos, chip etc..

I spent $1000 on a K&N and UNICHIP because I had no patience and did no research. There were some small seat of the pants gains. But what a waste when for a little over twice that I could've had an S/C w/ URD fuel mods with real power.

I am not familiar w/ the 3rz but I go with what is tried and proven when budget is an issue or if it's a DD. Leave it alone and save for the right things.
 

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Not to derail but saw a show where a guy did that to his TT and put two sprayers onto his intercooler and got quite a bit HP gain from just using the nitrous to cool incoming air and not directly into the engine.
You by chance seen anyone do that on a taco?
you would need to be turbo or supercharged to make use of an intercooler. cooling your throttle body is going to do nothing for you
 

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Need a little help if you can.

2000 3rz 278k

Hard to start only in cold weather, no probs in the summer. Once warm even in cold weather itll start right back up like it should unless it cools down completely, ie 4-5 hours after last shutoff.

I have the 2 coil pack ignition, one is less than 2 years old (new from toyota when replaced), one is original, coil wires are under 2 yo again from toyota. Plugs are less than a year old, fuel injectors just rebuilt, pressure reg, new as well. Starter original, yellow top optima less than 2 yo.

Turn key and truck cranks strong, I just stay on the key till it starts, anywhere from 1-5 minutes of cranking. It cranks strong the whole time, acts like it wants to start after 10 seconds or so but just stays at a constant sputter, it will die if I dont stay on the starter, after a while longer it will begin to want to start more than not, but still not enough to let off the key, eventually it gets to the point where gently giving it throttle helps it fully fire and run. It runs rough for a minute then gets to the point where it runs/idles normal for a cold start for a 3rz.

Is my IAC sticking?

Im about to replace the 1/4 coil pack, the one that is original, im consistently getting p0301 and p0303 but the 3/2 coil pack and all the wires are under 2 yo. So i could understand maybe the cyl 1 misfire is the age of the coil, but the cyl 3 misfire when all else is relatively new? Leads me to think maybe the IAC is sticking. Would that cause the misfires?

Fuel pump has been ruled out as trucks runs like new once warm at all speeds in all conditions. Originally thought maybe fuel pressure was leaking down but ive done the injectors and regulator in the last month because of that and still have the issue (hard to start). Problem started last fall and has progressively gotten worse, now even harder to start in cold 25-40* and recently hard to start in warmer 40-60* temps when it used to only have problems in the colder range.

Thoughts?

Sorry if this is cluttered. Thanks.
 
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