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Discussion Starter #1
I need a driver side head.
What are your thoughts on After market heads any good brands? Remanufactured heads? Purchasing OEM? Amazon, Ebay, Autozone, Rockauto? Should I do both heads while I am here? Or just adjust valves on the other side, lap them, or leave it alone (not broke don’t fix)?

Gaskets and head bolts.
Any particular brand stand out among the rest, or that I should stay away from?

Also since the engine is in this state anything I should replace while I am here, Water pump, timing belt, coils, Wires.

Thank you for your input!



Quick background: After oil change and cleaning the airfilter truck would idle rough for about 10 seconds on cold starts and finally gave a P0300 code. I assumed the MAF sensor got gunked up by K&N air filter oil. Took her to the stealership and the reported coolant in the #4 cylinder. Not too happy with the news I performed my own tests.
Did cooling system pressure test with “OTC (7991) Cooling System Pressure Tester” lost pressure slowly. Pulled all spark plugs and with a flashlight was able to investigate each cylinder while rocking the truck. Clear as day coolant was in the #4 Cylinder.
Performed a Compression test after the truck was at running temp. Did not have the throttle open not sure if that voids my results.
Cylinder:
#1 -212.5
#2-200
#3-200
#4-195
#5-210
#6-205
Performed a leak down test as well. “OTC 5609 Cylinder Leakage Tester Kit”
Cylinder:
#1-95% (Nothing)
#2-88% (Air noise from oil fill)
#3-82% (Air escaping exhaust)
#4-77% (Able to see steam/air moving out of radiator cap)
#5-91% (Air escaping exhaust)
#6-84% (Air escaping exhaust)

Have been following along with these youtube videos
These videos help tremendously big thanks to the guy for uploading and sharing his knowledge.
My driver side engine head is now off the block and I believe the head is in fact cracked. So I will need a new head.
 

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There are heads out there made in China that you absolutely want to avoid. Mostly you see them on Ebay or sometimes Amazon. LC Engineering has great products, but you pay for it.

The head gaskets and bolts would be best to go OEM.

Water pump and timing belt are easy add-ons when you already have it torn apart. They should be replaced every 90k.
 

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I have bought quite a few parts from rock auto and it's the 1st place i look now. great prices on name brands you know and trust. the 1st. thing i bought was a new complete headlamp assembly. Same brand as the local orielly auto parts store had, but half the price. then a week later I bought the other side too. the original was yellowed and I didn't realize how bad until i got the 1st one and saw how much brighter it was compared to the original. that was 4 years ago and the lenses are still clear! most of the parts I have bought have been for my daughters chevy cobalt, I think i now know more about its engine than my own taco motor since ive had to work on it so much ( and i hate chevy's always have ) if your undecided on brands, Look for the parts with the heart next to them, that means it's the part most people buy and you can be assured it works
 

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I dealt with having my heads replaced last year at 200k mi. I didnt have a gasket failure, instead it was a burnt valve. Upon removal the usuall cracks between valves were found. Even though it was one head that had the bad valve, it was suggested that I remove and repair or replace both. I agreed, at 200k if one side has issues it's not unlikely that the other will too.

I was given the option and qoute using new oem bare heads and associated parts, that was WAY more than I was willing to pay. I opted for a pair of complete remanufactured heads from a place called Yota1. Also used a factory gasket set and FelPro head bolts. The FelPro are less expensive than toyota, made in Japan if I remember right and appear to be good. While you're in there, if you haven't recently done it, do the timing belt, water pump etc.
 
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