TTORA Forum banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 3 of 3 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,805 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
DIY Skidplate

Files are courtesy of Paul Mooney.

.PDF File of Skidplate 1: HERE
.PDF File of Skidplate 2: HERE

.DWG (CAD) File of Skidplate 1: HERE
.DWG (CAD) File of Skidplate 2: HERE

Pictures of Skidplate: #1 #2 #3 #4 #5 #6

Additional Notes:

*Thickness of the plates used can be any reasonable thickness for skid
plates. I compared thicknesses used by commercial vendors to find
suitable thickness for my needs. Check with local machine/fab shops
for prices & availability of preferred material.

I used 5/16" Aluminum, and took a little bashing for it. In KY there
are a few rocks & logs, but I'm not hard-core. Plus, don't feel the
added weight of steel is a plus, but others might. I found through
research if you increase the thickness by 50% Aluminum can be used
instead of steel for the SAME job. No rust + less weight is a good
thing. Considering the plate is there to take a beating as well, it
should not transfer any damage by pulling on the frame or what not.
Anyway, the plan is flexible by the user.

I also sprayed the front of my plate with undercoating to not attract
attention. My Tacoma is stock height, & I'm not trying to get into any
competitions. Just protect my investment better.

*This drawing will work for Stock height Tacomas wanting to use
existing mounting locations which means NO drilling required. Both
stock skid pieces are integrated into one main piece, which means
easier removal & install for eminence. Although, the existing bolts
that hold the OEM skid plates on are made of very mild steel. I have
found that the stock bolts and nuts strip out. Once I get a chance I'm
going to get Grade 8 nuts spot-welded in the stock locations to
correct this weak link. I have already replaced the bolts to Grade 8
Stainless.

*If anyone wants to remove the 7 front holes or change the design,
they are free to do so. The oval is located the same as the stock
plate is for ease of maintence. I had a friend draw these plans up on
AutoCAD, and took it down to the local machine shop. They entered the
drawing into there system, & had a plasma laser cut out the design.
Then bent the material at the instructed points, with one massive
break. I took it home and it bolted right up the first time. My design
has its roots in cardboard to get the measurements.

*I also got some crap over the transfer skid design, but it is tucked
out of the way more than the main plate, and it still adds much more
protection than stock. I'll certainly use a better design if someone
is willing to come up with one that doesn't cost much. I used rubber
grommets to isolate the vibration coming from it resting against the
transfer case, & bolting a 3rd & 4th bolt to the stock transfer case's
skid will also cause even more vibration so those holes are not
included.

*I have $150 total in both plates pictured in the set of drawings. $75
material using 5/16" Aluminum plate & $75 in labor using a plasma
cutter & massive brake.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,805 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Havea '97 Taco Xtra w/ 2.7 L 4 cyl. Keep getting a brake light when accelerating from a full-stop until the truck shifts (auto trans) . Any quick fix suggestions? Brake pads are all new, and the fluid level is appropriate. Thanks.

Chris
Solutions:

1. Add more Brake Fluid.
2. Look at the switch on the e-brake handle, sometimes they need to be adjusted

According to the Owners Manual

(!) Brake System Warning Light
This light has the following functions:
-Parking Brake Reminder
-Low Brake Fluid level Warning
 
1 - 3 of 3 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top