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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Torque Transfer Problem with Marlin Clutch *added removed clutch pics*

Hey guys, I'm back. I joined this forum due to some insurance money I came into. That resulted in my purchasing an entire new suspension for my Taco from OME, a new clutch kit from Marlin, and a few other odds and ends, to bring my old truck back to life after 180K mi.

Before I get to the problem, here's a before and after of the OME installation. Unfortunately, the before isn't the best shot.

Before



During



After



So, I purchased the 1200# Marlin Crawler clutch for my 02 V6 Tacoma. I had a buddy over for a long weekend, bought a transmission jack, and we went to work. We were smart enough to install the new suspension the weekend before, so the truck had sufficient clearance to work on the transmission without lifting the truck. It took so much longer than I thought it would to get this job done. I guess an engine and tranny that have been joined for 180K miles don't appreciate being separated. Anyway, with the help of a lot of threads on this forum, we figured out how to get them separated. The clutch replacement was fairly straightforward, and then getting the engine and tranny mated back together took forever again.

So, I've got a new clutch, and I can definitely tell a difference from the old one, but I have a significant problem that's not fixing itself. When I put the engine under any decent torque load whatsoever, the clutch starts slipping, at least that's what I assume is going on. The car will start jerking and/ or shuddering, dependent on how much gas I'm giving it, and how low the rpms are.

I can drive at speed just fine, and I can accelerate just fine as long as I do it at a relaxed pace. Any attempts at working the engine, however, gets the clutch started slipping.

The only thing I can think of that would have caused this is that I adjusted the clutch pedal settings when I redid the clutch. Could I have set the pedal in such a way that it's preventing full engagement of the clutch plates? I'm terrified at the concept that I might have to pull the transmission again. I doubt my friend would be up for assisting me in that job a second time. It wasn't the most fun I've had working on a car.

Has anyone had this problem? Any ideas on what might be causing it? Did I mess up the installation of the clutch somehow?

MARCH 16 EDIT:

The clutch kept getting worse and worse since January. By the time I parked the truck this weekend, I couldn't even hit 70mph on the interstate. I was right-lane only on my commute home, puttering along at a max of 65. It was getting to the point I was worried to drive it.

So my friend came over this weekend and we dropped the transmission again. It initially separated much easier than the first time, but we scratched our heads for 4 HOURS trying to figure out why we couldn't get them completely apart. Turns out we hadn't removed the bellhousing cover plate. When we finally realized it, we felt really stupid. I won't even tell you guys the techniques we tried out to get he transmission out. I was convinced the pilot bearing had seized on the input shaft until we discovered the plate still bolted in place.

Anyway, I got the clutch out and here's what it looks like...

Clutch Disc, flywheel side. The clutch wear on this side looks even. There appear to be slight low spots around some of the rivets, but the wear is even and regular across the disc.



Clutch disc, pressure plate side. The clutch wear on this side isn't even. The areas without any wear are all along the inside of the wear surface.



Pressure plate. It's not as easy to see in the overall photo, but there is more wear along the outer edge of the pressure plate, and almost no wear on the inside. In the detail photo you can see the shined, worn surface on the outer edge, and the original, grooved surface on the rest of the plate.





My guess is the clutch isn't engaging fully because it's only grabbing on the outer edge. Is that a reasonable guess? Also, if I'm correct, is this the result of an installation error on my part, or a manufacturer's defect? I'm going to contact Marlin tomorrow about this, but I wanted to get your opinions on the matter beforehand.
 

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Sounds like you didn't skim the flywheel to true it up which you should always do when you replace a clutch. It doesn't take long nor is it expensive once you have it all broken down to swap the clutch. Lots of places have the machine to do it and it only takes minutes.
Other things to check are that the hydralics and linkage between the pedal and clutch are working properly.
 

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Sounds like you didn't skim the flywheel to true it up which you should always do when you replace a clutch. It doesn't take long nor is it expensive once you have it all broken down to swap the clutch. Lots of places have the machine to do it and it only takes minutes.
This. I have just replaced my flywheel both times that I've done clutch work. Cheap piece of mind.
 

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The only thing I can think of that would have caused this is that I adjusted the clutch pedal settings when I redid the clutch. Could I have set the pedal in such a way that it's preventing full engagement of the clutch plates?
Yes, this is possible. You want the pedal adjusted such that there is no tension on the clutch master when the pedal is all the way out. You want about 1/4" free travel before the rod starts engaging.
 
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