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They are degigned to be used in conjunction with the TC tacoma longtravel uniball kit P/N# 96000. The TC kit was not designed to be used with pneumatic bumpstops on the LCA's. In order to run a pneumatic bump it must be placed off of the upper uniball which is connected to the spindle. If you look at the factory spindle, it has a right angle at the top with no bracing and is very thin. it was never designed to take that much verticle load, only lateral loads. So the piece you put in question is a must if you are going to run a bump stop off of the UCA, or if you just want to make your spindle stronger. I will be installing a set on my truck when i get the TC kit, and have not seen one actually installed on a truck yet, but they look stout.
 

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BLOWNYOTa-
Where are you getting your information from? I'm positive that it wasn't Total Chaos because it would be downright DANGEROUS (read: life-threatening) to mount a hydraulic bumpstop like you're suggesting. The Uni-ball adapter slug is press-fit into the spindle (from the bottom) and retained with a C-clip. What do you think is going to happen when a hydraulic bumpstop makes contact with that Uni-ball/upper arm?

What you are describing isn't really such a bad idea, but you stopped short of explaining everything that it would take to do something like that SAFELY (like welding the Uni-ball slug adapters into place, etc.). I've considered mounting hydraulic bumpstops on the front end of our Total Chaos-equipped long-travel Tacoma, but it would require a lot of fabrication and honestly, the 2.5" Racerunner coil-overs and 3-tube bypass shocks are working just fine.

The bottom line is that the Total Chaos spindle gussets were NOT designed to be used with hydraulic bumpstops.
 

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well done Jesse_at_tlt:
I get my information from 0 years of experiance, and a bum on the corner. No I didn't call Andy at TC to ask exactly WHY they made it a production part. But thats because I knew what it could be used for. but does that really matter? Because you said yourself it isn't really such a bad idea.
Life-threatening....yes i suppose it could be. You said that I stopped short of explaining EVERYTHING that it would take to do something like that safely. Im sorry that i didn't write a lengthy post about how to fully fab a pneumatic air bump off of a UCA. But that is not what Shadymilkman asked. I stated an obvious reason/use for the production of a simple weld on part. I could have given a simple answer to that question; strength. but then it would have looked assinine and you would have posted something else about my lack of information. Yes your right, it would require alot of design and fab time. Both of which are somethings that myself and other members enjoy as a hobby. I know for a fact that the TC 96000 kit works awesome with a racerunner 2.5" coilover and tripple bypass. You don't have to sell me on that, i will have my kit shortly, and it will be done just like yours. I just want to fabricate something on my truck that no one has done before....atleast that i have seen. Im 20 yrs old....and as far as im concerned I know absolutely nothing, because I will always gain new knowledge from my mistakes. In order to run an airbump off the UCA you would a either have to fab your own gusset, or use the TC gusset. Im not trying to antagonize you, i just found it a little strange that you; A) Attacked my source of information when there isn't one. B) agreed with my idea. have a great day

-Drew
 

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Drew-
I'm not posting on this topic to attack you, but to clarify something (that I think you'd agree) could be misinterpreted by other enthusiasts reading your first post.

The reason why Total Chaos made that spindle gusset IS to strengthen the spindle where the Uni-ball adapter-slug is pressed into the spindle. But the reason WHY it's for sale isn't to allow people to install hydraulic bumps off the UCA or because the stock spindle is weak. There have been a few cases where spindles have cracked because customers have not properly adjusted their limiting straps. When the suspension is allowed to over-extend, the maxed-out upper Uni-balls can place additional stress on the spindle, which has caused a few of them to break. The gusset is just supposed to be an added measure of security.
 

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i welded mine on a few days ago... heres what they look like installed, and this is how they break (from my brothers tundra)... they ARE NOT meant to be able to run a bump stop!
 

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Surfpunk-
I will agree with you and Jesse, on the main reason TC produced said part and that they aren't meant to be run with an air bump. But my question is: Do you think that even with the spindle gusseted it would not be able to handle the verticle load of the airbump? IMO i think that the gusseted spindle would be able to take 3-4 times the load of a non gusseted spindle. and that should be sufficent especially if the bump just limited the last 1" to 2" of travel and you were running a tripple bypass up front.
-Drew
 

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no, i dont think that you would be able to run a bumstop with only that gusset. like jesse said, the slug adaptor will just slide out (that c clip will NOT handle the forces for long).

where are you getting these numbers from? have you done ANY tests? or is it purely speculation?
 

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BLOWNYOTa said:
Surfpunk-
I will agree with you and Jesse, on the main reason TC produced said part and that they aren't meant to be run with an air bump. But my question is: Do you think that even with the spindle gusseted it would not be able to handle the verticle load of the airbump? IMO i think that the gusseted spindle would be able to take 3-4 times the load of a non gusseted spindle. and that should be sufficent especially if the bump just limited the last 1" to 2" of travel and you were running a tripple bypass up front.
-Drew

I was just noticing that the you seem to be all discussing different points manybe? It seems that the issue is the c-clip breaking, not the spindle after it has been gusseted? Perhaps the spindle is strong enough, but the c-clip isnt? I dont know either way, it is just something I noticed in the discussion here. Also, you said that you enjoy fabrication and want to do stuf no one else has pn a tacoma. I say your pics of the rear shock setup, I must say it is very impressive. My guess is that you would be able to find some way to get those damn hydraulic bumopstops to work!
 

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surfpunk said:
no, i dont think that you would be able to run a bumstop with only that gusset. like jesse said, the slug adaptor will just slide out (that c clip will NOT handle the forces for long).

where are you getting these numbers from? have you done ANY tests? or is it purely speculation?

Ok so I am going to try and explain in the next few characters why I think that I can fabricate a reliable air bump setup off of the TC UCA with a spindle gusset. The stock spindle has no bracing, and the upper ball joint sits directly over the center of the hub. So let’s call the top of the spindle to the center of the uniball 4”. If the air bump displaced 600 lbs of load at any given time that would be 1800 ft lbs of vertical load on the spindle with NO bracing. When the bracing is installed the leverage point on the spindle changes from the front of the spindle to the side of the brace, and is shared by approx 4” if plate and the weld. The center of the uniball to the bracing is only about an inch. So now when the vertical load is placed on the spindle it has about a quarter of the leverage acting on it (450 ft lbs), not to mention the entire load being transferred to the base of the spindle. I’m not strength and materials major, but I know that if you tried to turn a bolt with an inch long wrench with a piece of 1/8th inch plate attached to it, it would be a lot harder to loosen than with a 4” wrench with nothing under it. I am not debating the strength of the c-clip, (because obviously that would be the weakest point of the kit) that will be welded to the spindle.

CRAP….I feel like I am writing my senior project again. Whatever…I’m over it….it will be done shortly and I will post pics of how I did it. If it breaks or bends I will build my own spindles and bow down…..but until then I will continue to be an arrogant asshole……and think that i am right. :D

Ok how about this: The spindle gusset was designed to strengthen the stock spindle. (I.e. GUSSET)

There you go SHADYMILKMAN! You got everyone all riled up….are you happy now….? J/K
 

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joeylead said:
I was just noticing that the you seem to be all discussing different points manybe? It seems that the issue is the c-clip breaking, not the spindle after it has been gusseted? Perhaps the spindle is strong enough, but the c-clip isnt? I dont know either way, it is just something I noticed in the discussion here. Also, you said that you enjoy fabrication and want to do stuf no one else has pn a tacoma. I say your pics of the rear shock setup, I must say it is very impressive. My guess is that you would be able to find some way to get those damn hydraulic bumopstops to work!
Dude I'm just as lost as you are. But yes it will be done........if it will work I dunno, but I'll get back to you on that one.
 

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BLOWNYOTa said:
If you had to put a hydraulic bump stop on the TC kit how would you do it? I thought about doing it off of the LCA, but there will be no room with the CO, and bypasses.
I've actually got a pair of Swayaway hydraulic bumpstops for the front-end of the LT Tacoma sitting in my garage. When I was telling you how well the CO's and bypasses are working, I wasn't trying to 'plug my business'. I really meant that we just haven't needed to install them. We've still got to do a lot of valving-work to get the front-end totally dialed-in with the bypasses.

When/if we do install them, it will be off of the upper Uni-ball sort of like what you've described. You're right about the Uni-ball being directly over the center of the hub, that makes a big difference. Since it's a forged spindle, I think it will just come down to how well you gusset it and how the Uni-ball slug is welded into the spindle. Don't forget that with the Uni-ball mounted in single-shear, that positioning the bumpstop so that there is ZERO scrub is absolutely critical. The last thing you want to do is put a bending load on that 3/4" bolt. The under-hood clearances are also pretty tight. There might be JUST enough room to squeeze the bumpstops in there without cutting through your hood. It would be easy to check before you get started.

If you want any specific advice/input or assistance, I'll help you out in any way that I can, but I've got some concerns about the outcome...
 

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I am with you on the concern about the mounting of the bumpstop. I will be going to a fiberglass hood with cowl induction....how cool would it be to have the bumpstop coming through the hood with litte air deflectors glassed in. Just an idea. But I will definetly hit you up with some questions WHEN I run into problems.
 

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if youre really serious about doing this, look into doing something like how ESB guessets/mounts their uniball adaptor. even if you weld the adaptor to the spindle, i still think that it would be too much pressure on that slug adaptor...

also, when you have a bypass you can set it up so that the last part of the stroke hydralics, and works like a bump stop. ive never been in a truck that has it set up like this though, so i dont know how different the feeling is from a real bumpstop.

 
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