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Toyota Leaf Pack Rebuild
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Yeah the leaf pack was a great idea andy. For the flex that you got out of those is great.
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168 Posts
I'm curious too. How much lift was gained.atwinda said:
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546 Posts
I get this when I click on the link;
Active Server Pages error 'ASP 0113'
Script timed out
/Default.asp
The maximum amount of time for a script to execute was exceeded. You can change this limit by specifying a new value for the property Server.ScriptTimeout or by changing the value in the IIS administration tools.
Oh, and "Engineered" is spelled wrong in your logo
Active Server Pages error 'ASP 0113'
Script timed out
/Default.asp
The maximum amount of time for a script to execute was exceeded. You can change this limit by specifying a new value for the property Server.ScriptTimeout or by changing the value in the IIS administration tools.
Oh, and "Engineered" is spelled wrong in your logo
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48 Posts
Could you check your website out? Its not working right now, getting an ASP error I think. Thanks.
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40 Posts
i used 2 stock leaf packs on mine and got about 3" without the overload leaf.
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1,521 Posts
I had 4" of lift to start off, I ended up with slightly more than that. 4.5" to be accurate. I could probably take off my lift shackles and sit perfect again. (I like the 3.5" in front, and 4" rear). I am working on some newer shackles so those ones just stay on for now... Full payload isn't that bad. It tends to have a bit more body roll, but it did before, so IMO it hasn't really changed much.
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1,521 Posts
Er.. I can't get it to recreate.. My server is rather unstable.. If someone could recomend a good asp enabled host, that would be nice... Thanks for pointing that out..WATRD said:I get this when I click on the link;
Active Server Pages error 'ASP 0113'
Script timed out
/Default.asp
The maximum amount of time for a script to execute was exceeded. You can change this limit by specifying a new value for the property Server.ScriptTimeout or by changing the value in the IIS administration tools.
Oh, and "Engineered" is spelled wrong in your logo
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48 Posts
This would be a pretty good fix for my sagging driver side. Anyone know how much factory leaf packs normally run? Anywhere else I could get some besides this site? thanks
dan
dan
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48 Posts
Anyone know if this would fix that sagging problem? if it will do you still take out the overload leaf? Just curious before I start looking into stock leaf packs.
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1,521 Posts
Dan, The quick fix if you're just looking to solve the drivers side lean is a shim packer for the front coilover, and a small 1/4" or so shim/block for the rear. Perhaps you can talk to cornfed and see what he can do for you.
You'd have to rebuild both packs in the rear, which I suppose you could do, only using one additional leaf. A new pack from the dealer is more expensive than deavers or other aftermarket leaf pack.. If you are looking to replace the whole pack, that is your best option.
You'd have to rebuild both packs in the rear, which I suppose you could do, only using one additional leaf. A new pack from the dealer is more expensive than deavers or other aftermarket leaf pack.. If you are looking to replace the whole pack, that is your best option.
I did this on my truck and it worked out pretty well. I had to get a new centering pin, though, because I chose to leave the overload spring in. On mine, I got about 3" of lift but it is already starting to sag (putting in shackles soon). I've only had a couple of issues with mine and you may want to put these in your write-up.
1) On the passenger side, the springs would rub against the exhaust pipe which caused some fanning. Solved this by renting a exhaust pipe cutter at Checker and cutting it after the bend downward.
2) As this type of lift sags rather quickly without having re-arcing done at a spring shop, I've found that it is starting to stretch the e-brake cable. Fix forthcoming after finals.
Other than that, I've been very happy with it. I took mine off of my truck and used a newer TRD set as my base and cut up my originals. While I had them off, I coated everything in Rustoleum flat black industrial enamel and shot powdered graphite between all the springs and in the spring eyes.
Thanks for the write-up.
Leaf Spring Closeup
Underneath Bed
1) On the passenger side, the springs would rub against the exhaust pipe which caused some fanning. Solved this by renting a exhaust pipe cutter at Checker and cutting it after the bend downward.
2) As this type of lift sags rather quickly without having re-arcing done at a spring shop, I've found that it is starting to stretch the e-brake cable. Fix forthcoming after finals.
Other than that, I've been very happy with it. I took mine off of my truck and used a newer TRD set as my base and cut up my originals. While I had them off, I coated everything in Rustoleum flat black industrial enamel and shot powdered graphite between all the springs and in the spring eyes.
Thanks for the write-up.
Leaf Spring Closeup
Underneath Bed
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266 Posts
Before I bought my OME leafs I modified my springs in a simular fashion. I kept my main and second Tacoma leaf and replaced the rest with leafs from a [email protected]#p Comanche. They worked well, I kept the overload as I carry weight from tim to time.atwinda said:
:welder:
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12,213 Posts
I just did this on my 2001. I got 2" of lift. I made the BPV out of some flat stock, and for the brake line I just bent the bracket up, then flipped the e-brake cable on the gas tank so it will not rub on the rubber.
It took a while to find the dimentions I needed, but PaulW was kind enough to run to his truck with a measuring tape. Here are my findings:
Here are the dimentions as follows, 1 being the very first spring (with eyelets), 6 being the overload. The first number is the ammount in the front, the second is the ammount on the rear. The dimensions are from the end of the leaf above, to the end of the leaf...
1 (Eyelets)
2
3
4: 6.5"/8"
5: 3.5"/3.25"
6: (Overload)
I decided to drill the holes on the end for the stock pads. I also cut the corners, then grinded it round and threw a slight bevel on the edge. No squeaking, and looks very stock. However, if you decide to drill the holes, either have a Drill Dr. that you have experience with, or you can sharpen bits really well, because I tell you, you will go through bit after bit trying to drill a hole. I had to go in 3 steps, and each bit was only good for one hole. That was using lube, and a drill press with the correct speed. Took a LONGGGGGGG time, but IMHO, it's worth it. Do it once, do it right!
The shocks I used are Bilstien 5150's, model number BF5-A195-H1. A very nice ride.
Now, the last truck I had, had a Pro-Comp AAL, and then I went to a Alcan AAL, both available through Doug from www.ToyTechLifts.com. I tow my boat, haul my dirtbike, but still wanted to wheel and not bang my head on the headliner. The Alcan by far did the best ride, and it held wieght good, it also flexed pretty damn well!
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y225/NorCalPR/flex.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y225/NorCalPR/truckbike.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y225/NorCalPR/Tacotowingboat.jpg
So far, I have only been able to tow the boat. It is very comparable, it actually holds the wieght a bit better, and the ride is a tad stiffer, but it's perfect:
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y225/NorCalPR/101_0744.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y225/NorCalPR/101_0746.jpg
Note that I do have the wieght of the sliders. Each wiegh about 75 pounds (guestimating). My leaf springs were also pretty worn out form the camper shell the owner had on before.
The donor leaf pack was from a 98 (I believe) Tacoma, 4cyl 4x4. It had a Pro Comp AAL, so it may have been slightly sagged. The only info I have for doing this is, keep the driver side pack with the driver side, and the pass side pack with the pass side. I would imagine it would probably affect the side to side lift.
I also sprayed the whole leaf pack at the same time with Rust-oleum High Performance Enamel. It's really tough paint, and the flat black came out great.
Overall, I would do it again. Maybe we can start something where members post thier numbers and the ammount of lift, and any extra wieght on thier rig?
Hopefully this helps out anyone looking for about 2" of lift in the rear.
It took a while to find the dimentions I needed, but PaulW was kind enough to run to his truck with a measuring tape. Here are my findings:
Here are the dimentions as follows, 1 being the very first spring (with eyelets), 6 being the overload. The first number is the ammount in the front, the second is the ammount on the rear. The dimensions are from the end of the leaf above, to the end of the leaf...
1 (Eyelets)
2
3
4: 6.5"/8"
5: 3.5"/3.25"
6: (Overload)
I decided to drill the holes on the end for the stock pads. I also cut the corners, then grinded it round and threw a slight bevel on the edge. No squeaking, and looks very stock. However, if you decide to drill the holes, either have a Drill Dr. that you have experience with, or you can sharpen bits really well, because I tell you, you will go through bit after bit trying to drill a hole. I had to go in 3 steps, and each bit was only good for one hole. That was using lube, and a drill press with the correct speed. Took a LONGGGGGGG time, but IMHO, it's worth it. Do it once, do it right!
The shocks I used are Bilstien 5150's, model number BF5-A195-H1. A very nice ride.
Now, the last truck I had, had a Pro-Comp AAL, and then I went to a Alcan AAL, both available through Doug from www.ToyTechLifts.com. I tow my boat, haul my dirtbike, but still wanted to wheel and not bang my head on the headliner. The Alcan by far did the best ride, and it held wieght good, it also flexed pretty damn well!
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y225/NorCalPR/flex.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y225/NorCalPR/truckbike.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y225/NorCalPR/Tacotowingboat.jpg
So far, I have only been able to tow the boat. It is very comparable, it actually holds the wieght a bit better, and the ride is a tad stiffer, but it's perfect:
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y225/NorCalPR/101_0744.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y225/NorCalPR/101_0746.jpg
Note that I do have the wieght of the sliders. Each wiegh about 75 pounds (guestimating). My leaf springs were also pretty worn out form the camper shell the owner had on before.
The donor leaf pack was from a 98 (I believe) Tacoma, 4cyl 4x4. It had a Pro Comp AAL, so it may have been slightly sagged. The only info I have for doing this is, keep the driver side pack with the driver side, and the pass side pack with the pass side. I would imagine it would probably affect the side to side lift.
I also sprayed the whole leaf pack at the same time with Rust-oleum High Performance Enamel. It's really tough paint, and the flat black came out great.
Overall, I would do it again. Maybe we can start something where members post thier numbers and the ammount of lift, and any extra wieght on thier rig?
Hopefully this helps out anyone looking for about 2" of lift in the rear.
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