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Discussion Starter #1
Next on the list, traction bar. Anyone have any experience/designs for building a traction bar on a 95-04 taco w/ elocker? I know a lot of people out there are running the budbuilt version, but that is too pricey for my taste. Never worked with heims or moving parts before so chime in if you have any advice.
 

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NorCal Chapter Pres
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If you want to build one, it's been proven that you can't go to the 3rd member studs, or the factory crossmember where the carrier bearing is. The studs will pull out, and the crossmember is too thin and will cave in.

If you want to build one, you'll have to weld it to the axle, and build a support for the other end.

There's been a couple builds in this folder, a search should bring them up ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
If you want to build one, it's been proven that you can't go to the 3rd member studs, or the factory crossmember where the carrier bearing is. The studs will pull out, and the crossmember is too thin and will cave in.
Thats the kind of info I would like to know. Thanks.

Scuba, thanks for the link.
 

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I had one on my old stock taco axle. Used a 2.5" Johnny joint & 3/4" heim on the shackle @ the frame end. That end was way beefy, as the frame was plated well for it. The two problem areas were the bar itself & the axle bracket. The axle bracket was made from 1/4" plate, but didn't wrap far enough around the axletube(which is very thin). It eventually started to crack as it tried to rip itself off the axletube. The bar was built from 1.25", 1/8" wall tube & had two heims @ the axle end. It was underbuilt, & eventually broke.
The traction bar I now have under there is stout. Frame end still utilizing the heim & the johnny joint on a shackle. The frame end uses 1.5" round tube & attaches to the frame & the factory x-member w/dimpled gussets(so it should resist loads in two different planes). The traingular bar itself is made from 1.25", 1/8" wall square tubing that has 1/8" plate fully covering both sides. The axle end uses two urethane bushings & attaches to an axle bracket made from 3/16" plate that wraps around the axletube more & is gussetted. Not to mention the D60 rear I'm running has thicker tubes.
I would trust the entire setup under severe conditions, definitely more than my little 2.7 can throw at it. Hope this helps.
 

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pics?
 

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Hawaii's Damage Control
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I used ruffstuffs axle brackets and bushings and got a jonny joint and yj bushings for the shackle. The bar was made of 2" .250 wall square on the bottom and 1.75 .120 on the top. I didn't have any problems with it binding at all.







The crossmember was 2" .250 square as well.


Personally, I think heims at the axle are not needed and at most you would need two heims or flex joints on the shackle. I also like the design of some of the slip and twist trac bars that I saw on pirate when I researched to build mine.
 

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Question:

General Traction Bar Question:
What about the older type design that mounts on top of the springs attached using the U bolts and then forward to the frame. One on each side. I know it's old technology but remind me why it's not used anymore? Limited articulation or what?

Edit: This type... not saying this is the best, just asking about the design concept pro's and con's.
http://www.northwestoffroad.com/parts/traction_bar.html
 

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General Traction Bar Question:
What about the older type design that mounts on top of the springs attached using the U bolts and then forward to the frame. One on each side. I know it's old technology but remind me why it's not used anymore? Limited articulation or what?

Edit: This type... not saying this is the best, just asking about the design concept pro's and con's.
http://www.northwestoffroad.com/parts/traction_bar.html
Read through the link Scuba posted... :cool:

http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=148260
 
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