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Mr. President
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I don't see why it wouldn't. But we could always pick up a 86+ axle from the pull a part if we find one.
 

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order the bracket from sky man. i have it on mine but only problem with the breaks is you need a big master to fill the calipers i swaped in one out of a half ton chevy. to do the trick.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
90% certain I already upgraded to the 1" bore master cylinder, if anyone remembers feel free to chime in, I know I replaced it but can't find receipt

Looking at sky's site there must be a difference in how the rotor fits up as they sell different rotors for 79-85 and 86-95. They do not offer a complete kit just pieces parts which to make a complete kit would be about $470 which is a bit more than the TG kit but still not bad if it actually improves the braking
 

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ok disck swap is easy.
the bracket from sky
napa list
1995ish full size chevy 4x4 std cab sht bed rotors need to boar out centers
and front break lines off this truck should mount to need calipers
pull apart list
early 90s chevy car front calipers and pads and hardware
you should be out under $200 and a 1in master isnt going to cut it with chevy calipers. my truck was born a v6 so it had the 13/16 master and couldn't bleed them.
 

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Mr. President
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For under $200, this sounds like something I need to do when I tear into my rear axle.
 

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$80 from sky
$50 for rotos from napa for the pair will need center hole enlarged
$18 for pair used calipers and hardware from pull a part and pads if they are in good shape
$30 for brand new pair of brake lines to adapt to chevy calipers from napa
brings grand total to $178 sure beats trail gear prices
i have an extra 30 into the chevy master and made the adapter at old work were i had full access to a machine shop. the lines will need re flared to and new fittings to match chevy fittings
 

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I need to do this too.....i was washing mine last night and realized that somehow i managed to smash the backing plate that the shoes mount to inwards toward the drum....it is almost tacoed in half.....how the hell did i do that:confused:
 

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todd its was done by a rock lol. but the swap is pretty straight forward. i dont have any residual valves in mine dont see the need for a trail truck. but stops great from about 45mph. only thing is make sure you use the correct rotors or youll have the problem i have. std cab sht bed 4x4 rotors are 1in thick all other cab and bed combo uses thicker rotors didnt know untill i had rotors mounted and pads didnt fit so i ground the extra pad off to fit.
 

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Mr. President
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Just a note. I bought the cadillac calipers for the parking brake, and there is no way at all to attach the cables. The stock parking brake cable has to pull perpendicular to the wheel, the cadillac calipers are setup to pull parallel to the wheel. I just spent 3 hours trying to find a writeup on how to make them work. I only found one, and lots of fabbing of brackets was required. So I think spending $130 on the cadillac calipers vs. $24 on the monte carlo was a bad idea.

Here is the link I found for making the parking brake work.
http://www.yotatech.com/f209/toyota-fiberglass-1983-trekker-build-up-thread-131775/index5.html

So now to see if I can return the calipers and possibly buy the allpro transfercase parking brake kit.
 

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Don't waste your money on a drive line brake....they are a pita to adjust and don't hold well. Just get some line locks and call it good....for your purpose they will work.
 

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Mr. President
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Scott, When you did the master cylinder upgrade, did you loos all movement in the brake pedal? I bled the brakes and now the pedal only moves like 1/2". It's good and firm, just barely any movement. Just wondering if this is normal or if I have a problem somewhere.
 

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well i have movement that seems normal buts it is shorter than the toy stuff was but dosnt feal out of place then the truck is running.
 

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Mr. President
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OK. I'll have to play with it and see what I can figure out.
 

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Mr. President
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Well it's not rock hard anymore, but I have to stand on them to stop. If anyone knows somewhere to get a dual diaphram booster on the cheap I'd appreciate it. Looking for one out of a 95+ T100 4x4.
 

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Mr. President
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Found one on ebay for $25. Took all of 20 minutes to install. Now I have to go wheeling again to try them out.



 

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Mr. President
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Overall, I have to say this was all a big waste of money. The brakes worked so much better with the factory drums in the back, plus I had a parking brake. The only benefit to going with discs in the back would be not having to clean the drums every couple of wheeling trips.
 

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I have never had any issues with the stock brakes....my parking brake doesn't work but i have never pulled the drum to figure out why....they stop great though.

The new axles will get rear disc for two reasons:
1. The current stuff if all junk and i can convert to disc cheaper than rebuilding the drums.
2. It will save me a crap ton of weight
 
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