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Dam it's been awhile since I last made a post to any forum, but other than home improvements and watching my boys grow up, I haven't done much work to any of my vehicles. Sorry for the links.

Needless to say stock stereos suck. JBL factory upgrades are nice, but wasnt an option in my 07’ Double Cab SR5. I’ve done a few stereos in my younger smot poking days so it was great to do it with better tools, better products and not in a back alley.

First thing was to do a wire hack to new harnesses to bypass the speed sensor and parking brake. Now I can watch porn while driving and my wife can find the nearest Starbucks while on the freeway. Found it and the best install directions on AVIC411.com without a single complication other than keeping my eyes on the road.
I fabbed up a brushed aluminum plate to hold the navigation antennae under the center speaker grill by the clock. Trust me, no one knows its there and works perfectly. This stereo is dope!
http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu136/thetreends/The Dad/The Tundra/IMG_2048.jpg
http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu136/thetreends/The Dad/The Tundra/IMG_2052.jpg
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http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu136/thetreends/The Dad/The Tundra/IMG_2573.jpg
http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu136/thetreends/The Dad/The Tundra/IMG_2575.jpg

I got hooked up with MDF door speaker brackets to switch from 6x9’s to 6-1/2”.
I didn’t care for the hairline 22, 24, or whatever hairline gauge stock wires, so I pulled 2 runs of 16 gauge wires to each door from the center console.
The adjustable tweeters fit perfectly in the stock tweeter mounts (I had to buy since no tweets come with my SR5) after some minor messaging with a dremel and some sealant. These can be disconnected independently if the door stays on. I also set it up so that I can quickly pull the doors and reconnect cheap Vato Zone speakers to stock wires, remove amps, and components and reinstall stock stereo if I sell this truck, or if they are ever stolen I guess.
http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu136/thetreends/The Dad/The Tundra/IMG_2576.jpg


I fabbed up another alum plate on spacers to hide the crossovers under the center console cup holders, so they can be easily accessible for adjustments. A friend used the stock wiring and mounted the crossovers inside the door, zip-tied to door supports. This saved a lot of work and time but limited adjustability greatly.
http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu136/thetreends/The Dad/The Tundra/IMG_2133.jpg
http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu136/thetreends/The Dad/The Tundra/IMG_2578.jpg


It sucked to punch a hole in the back doors, but worked out clean. The stock wiring harness connects via a multi-wire connector in the door jam, so I couldn’t pull straight through like the front door. It took some thought, but I found that on the non-clip back-side I could grind out a notch in both the door and plastic harness connector, so I could fit 2 runs of 16ga cable. It is still hidden/protected in the rubber wire cover to the door. It is impossible to see that any door has been re-wired without pulling off the wire cover or skins.
http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu136/thetreends/The Dad/The Tundra/IMG_2308.jpg
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http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu136/thetreends/The Dad/The Tundra/IMG_2577.jpg

I ran the 3 sets of RCAs and the remote wire along the passenger side to under the rear passenger seat by the stock jack and spare tools. I stacked the component and sub amps under the rear passenger seat inside of the under-seat storage box. The lid doesn’t fit anymore, but the seats do not touch the amps.
The 4 gauge power & ground was run along the driver side. The fuse holder is mounted to the inner wheel well in the engine bay and to the (+) battery terminal. A power terminal is mounted behind the rear seats to feed both amps w/ 8ga. Both grounds were attached under rear seatbelt bolts.
http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu136/thetreends/The Dad/The Tundra/IMG_2305.jpg

Modern Image made my custom MDF enclosure to mount in the rear storage box to fit under the rear center seat. My goal was a clean and hidden system that still allowed me to access the rear-mounted jack, and still have room under the rear driver-side seat storage for straps, blunts and rubbers, or tie-down straps, tow straps, and Mechanic gloves. Careful measurements and evaluating air-space found that I could fit a 10” brand matching Alpine sub, but had to take the Type-S instead of a Type-R due to depth. Obviously the lid is not attached any longer to avoid vibrations. They stock a 2-10” box that completely replaces the storage box if you have one, but kinda limits access to the jack. I always need some kind of straps so I still need some space. Where else can I put my stash!
http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu136/thetreends/The Dad/The Tundra/IMG_2326.jpg
http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu136/thetreends/The Dad/The Tundra/IMG_2327.jpg
http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu136/thetreends/The Dad/The Tundra/IMG_2328.jpg

I am stoked! I can finally listen to punk, rap, reggae, oldies and all of my favorite movies while doing 90 with the windows down and cruise with a gansta lean when hitting the switches biotches! Now I can’t stop buying tunes and videos from iTunes.
http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu136/thetreends/The Dad/The Tundra/IMG_2329.jpg
http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu136/thetreends/The Dad/The Tundra/IMG_2331.jpg
http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu136/thetreends/The Dad/The Tundra/IMG_2336.jpg

Parts List:
Head unit: Pioneer Avic F90BT
Scosche Dash Kit TA2073B
4-Ch Amp for components” Alpine PDX 4.100 Stackable
1-Ch Amp for subwoofer: Alpine PDX 1.600 Stackable
10” Type-S Sub: Alpine SWS-1043D
110W 6-1/2” Door components: Alpine SPR-17s
Toyota Stock Front Door Tweeter Pods
PN 67491-0C020-C0
JL Audio wires/cables
Xtreme Dynamat
Modern Image custom enclosure

I kinda lag when it comes to getting on-line, but will do my best.
 
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