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Discussion Starter #1
I was just wondering how many inches of lift will help me clear 32x11.5x15's. I don't want any rubbing if at all possible, thanx.
 

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Trying to do the same thing!

Well I am trying to do the same thing with some BFG A/T 32x11.5x15's and am looking for the best way to lift my 1999 SR5 TRD while keeping the same TRD ride, but am finding out that you need to give and take. I would sugest a body lift or some kind of suspension lift. Body lift is cheap, but haven't heard very many good things about them. Based on my know-how of everything, spacers are a cheap and easy way to lift your truck, but gives you a stiffer ride. That goes for shackles in th rear as well (if you were to lift the rear). In my opinion, go big and get some kind of coil overs that will give you a great ride, as well as the adjustable lift that will allow for some balzy tires, (up to 3.5" of lift). Anyway, Am new to the whole scen so if you hear of anything, let me know.. Thanks.
 

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Let me attempt to clear the confusion.

The minimum you can get by withon a suspension type lift is 2.5 inches.

With a bodylift you can get by with 2"

Why less left for the Bodylift? Because when you lift the suspension with a spacer coil or coilover it still compresses. Meaning thhe hub can get just as close to the top portion of the fender well as before the lift (in theory but coil slap usually will prevent it from going this far so on compression of the front wheels you have no lift.

With a bodylift you are actually extending the distance that the hub can compress towards the fender by the amount of the lift. So in theory a bodylift can provide better clearance than a straight not drop bracket suspension lift.

(drop brackets btw provide clearance on the same principle of increasing distance of the hubs from the body)

But wait there is more! :D
You don't need a lift at all. That's right. No lift at all!

How can this be:confused:

A few ways actually. You can start with a reciprocating saw and a BFH.

If that type of clearancing dowesn't fit your fancy you can also order a set of Bushwacker cutout fender flares. You will still have to bust out the saw and probably the hammer but the job will look clean when you are done. (If I didn't have a dbl cab I would go this route).

I am not done yet!

We haven't talked about fiberglass. Yes fiberglass fenders and bedsides.. You can easily clear those tires with these new body panel.. and if you need fresh paint, nows the time to do it!


Good luck with your tire fitment decisions. There are pros and cons to each and every modification I mentioned. There are many people on forums who will shoot down mods that they have never ran, been around or installed, yet they are always the critics. Be carefull where you get your advice and remenber, it's your truck.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Bryanccfshr said:
Let me attempt to clear the confusion.

The minimum you can get by withon a suspension type lift is 2.5 inches.

With a bodylift you can get by with 2"

Why less left for the Bodylift? Because when you lift the suspension with a spacer coil or coilover it still compresses. Meaning thhe hub can get just as close to the top portion of the fender well as before the lift (in theory but coil slap usually will prevent it from going this far so on compression of the front wheels you have no lift.

With a bodylift you are actually extending the distance that the hub can compress towards the fender by the amount of the lift. So in theory a bodylift can provide better clearance than a straight not drop bracket suspension lift.

(drop brackets btw provide clearance on the same principle of increasing distance of the hubs from the body)

But wait there is more! :D
You don't need a lift at all. That's right. No lift at all!

How can this be:confused:

A few ways actually. You can start with a reciprocating saw and a BFH.

If that type of clearancing dowesn't fit your fancy you can also order a set of Bushwacker cutout fender flares. You will still have to bust out the saw and probably the hammer but the job will look clean when you are done. (If I didn't have a dbl cab I would go this route).

I am not done yet!

We haven't talked about fiberglass. Yes fiberglass fenders and bedsides.. You can easily clear those tires with these new body panel.. and if you need fresh paint, nows the time to do it!


Good luck with your tire fitment decisions. There are pros and cons to each and every modification I mentioned. There are many people on forums who will shoot down mods that they have never ran, been around or installed, yet they are always the critics. Be carefull where you get your advice and remenber, it's your truck.

Thanx 4 all the advice. That was probably the most informative response i've ever had. I really appreciate it.
 

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Just to add to Bryan's excellent post, if you get the fiberglass fenders, you may still have to hammer the pinch-weld seam that runs on the rear part of the inside front fenderwell. Also, it helps if you keep your stock 15x7 rims. I was running 32s on the stock 15x7 rims with no rubbing, but when I switched to Mickey Thompson Classic II 15x8's with less backspacing, I got more rubbing while under compression and when turning, even with 2" of suspension lift and hammering the crap out of the pinch-weld.

Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
thanx man.
 

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I'm running 32x11.5 on my Dubcab with 4.5" of lift. 2.5" Fr spacer/ 1.5" Rr shackles and a 2" BL. And I still run my factory running boards(otherwise my wife and kids would barely make it in) Currently saving for some sliders. I don't rub on or off road. Not even on the shitty running boards! I'm running 15x8's with 3 1/4 BS.
 
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