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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Last Sunday I was about 5 minutes away from ordering new stock rotors and pads for my taco when I found argonzeros thread about the Tundra brake upgrade. Normally I find stuff like that AFTER I've ordered parts, but this time went better, I think. The brake thread set me on a research binge, searching everything I could find, here at TT and over at yotatech. Decided that tundra brakes were what I needed. Figured out the difference in the 2 caliper choices, early 199mm and the upgraded, 03 and newer 231mm. Stock taco calipers are apparently 149mm, so 199s are good for me, plus they were a few bucks less NAPA. 199s fit the stock backing plates with minimal work and have way less interference issues with the wheels than the 231s. The bigger, thicker rotors are a big part of the improvement, and I wanted to get drilled rotors because it seems that the extra airflow helps cooling. Plus they look cool. Found some rotors and pads at

http://stores.channeladvisor.com/brakes/Brake Rotors/Toyota Truck - Van/Tundra/

I got the R1Premiums, they were on ebay for a few bucks less than the current price, so I ordered a set the day before they raised the price. Finally, I figured that if I'm gonna upgrade, then I am going to do it right so I ordered a set of tacoma stainless steel brake lines from Wheelers.

http://www.wheelersoffroad.com/9504tacolines.htm

It's now Thursday and I've got the calipers in the garage. NAPA part #s 242-61401 and 242-61402. Casting # is S13WE, 199mm calipers. Thats an important # to know if you want to do this mod. Got a Mityvac vacuum pump, a big jug of brake fluid and a couple cans of brake cleaner. I figure that Gary will have my brake lines here by tues or wed, based on several orders from Wheelers in the past. Great service. The rotors and pads are supposed to be here next tues or wed also, but I've never ordered from R1Concepts before, so we will see if they are good for their word or not.

In 42000 miles I've already gone thru one set of pads, and the current set is pulsing pretty bad. From what I've read the tundra brakes will be awesome on the lighter taco. I'll update here as the project progresses, and let everyone know how it goes. argonzero did a really good writeup here

http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum/showthread.php?t=51597&highlight=tundra+brakes

but his pics are down so I'm gonna try to back up his words and make sure that with his writeup and mine anybody will be able to get it done.

Reg
 

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get slotted brakes instead of the drilled ones....drilled ones have tiny little fractures around the holes...plus air has to bust a 90 degree turn to cool em...but other than that...tundra brakes on a taco...thats plain ol good thinkin
 

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Keep us updated, curious minds want to know..
 

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Discussion Starter #4
SpdBluTACO said:
get slotted brakes instead of the drilled ones....drilled ones have tiny little fractures around the holes...plus air has to bust a 90 degree turn to cool em...but other than that...tundra brakes on a taco...thats plain ol good thinkin

Rotors are already on the way, holes and slots. I was kinda worried about any machining on the rotors, holes or slots but the tundra rotors are about 20-30% thicker than taco units so the extra material should prevent any problems. I hope.
 

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Do you have to have 16" wheels for this? I thought I remember reading that somewhere, I would do it if I didn't have to deal with a bunch of wheel issues.
 

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Cool maybe when all said and done this should be added to the mods section.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
DentedTacoma said:
Do you have to have 16" wheels for this? I thought I remember reading that somewhere, I would do it if I didn't have to deal with a bunch of wheel issues.
I've got the stock 16" taco wheels. Also have a set of 15" 4 runner wheels I'm gonna try before and after just for the hell of it. I've read that 16s are mandatory, and even with 16s if you use the 231mm calipers you gotta grind on the caliper and the wheels. That's the biggest reason I'm going with the 199mm calipers, I just don't like the idea of grinding brakes or wheels.
 

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Hmmmm, I tow a lot and I should do this when mine go out!

Only thing is, I'm running 1079 Pro Craps 15X8 rim, and I hardly have enough clearance already fo the caliper.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Got the parts!

Update: I have all the parts. R1concepts rotors and pads are here and look good, Wheelers lines are here and I've had the calipers for about a week now. The Wheelers / Goodridge lines are stock Tacoma replacement lines pn WHE-BLINE-07X, they include new banjo bolts and washers and they fit the Tundra S13WE 199mm calipers perfectly. Looks like Fri nite / Sat is install time. I'll take some pics as I go, but this is looking like a normal brake job using slightly different parts.

I'll update when it's done!
 

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Can't wait to see this! I've recently started looking at upgrading my brakes with after-market parts, but this sounds like it would be better. If you don't mind, please let us know approximately what you spend.

Thanks! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
v6samurai86 said:
Can't wait to see this! I've recently started looking at upgrading my brakes with after-market parts, but this sounds like it would be better. If you don't mind, please let us know approximately what you spend.

Thanks! :)
Everything is already paid for so the cost breakdown to do what I did is:

Rotors / pads $219
Goodridge lines $67
S13WE Calipers $150 + 170 refundable core charge
Fluid, etc $20
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$456. + tax & shipping

You could do this for way less if you used different rotors and the stock lines. R1Concepts has drilled / slotted rotors + pads for $105, or blank rotors and pads for $85. I think this could be done for ~$250 if you went with blank rotors, reman'd calipers and used the stock brake lines. Or way less if you spent some effort chasing used or salvage yard parts.

Argonzero's mod to the stock banjo bolts is spot on, BTW. The Wheelers banjos look exactly like Argons modded bolts. It would be about 5 minutes work for me to make the stockers fit, and 3 minutes of that would be finding my drill index. The lines were my only (slight) worry with this project and now that I've seen the parts I'd use the stock lines, no problem. The trick rotors and lines I've got are just frosting, the real mod here is the bigger, thicker rotors and bigger calipers.

Cost wise for me, this was a no-brainer. I had a sticky caliper so I was going to be buying one Taco caliper, rotors and pads. And I had aready decided to get drilled / slotted rotors, so to upgrade to tundra parts cost me the price of one more caliper. EZ to make that decision...
 

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How much larger than stock are the pistons on the calipers you used? I was wondering how the stock master would do with larger pistons...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Bruciep07 said:
How much larger than stock are the pistons on the calipers you used? I was wondering how the stock master would do with larger pistons...
Don't know yet. I'll try to get a measurement when I do the install tonite. From the reports by guys who have done this mod the piston size is OK, everyone says it works great.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Install is done. No test drive yet, so I don't know how they work. Several brews while working made driving around erratically hitting the brakes seem like a bad idea. Forgot to measure the piston dia, sorry bruciep. Did get some other #s though. Old vs new rotors are 11 5/8 vs 12 1/2 diameter, 7/8 vs 1 1/8 thick and 13.5 vs 19.5 lbs. Serious upgrade in rotor size. Calipers really aren't a lot bigger, just a bit wider to accomodate the thicker rotor.

Couple of issues came up, first one was a messed up fitting on the brake line joint that went to the new lines. Had to seal the open end of the line and file the smashed part down. Looked like it had been seriously overtorqued during assembly. Everything went smooth from there until it was time to bleed the system. I hate bleeding hydraulics, even with a mityvac it took me about an hour.

If anyone is thinking of doing this mod, don't be scared of the work you'll have to do to the banjo bolts if you use the stock lines. Look at Argonzeros pics and do it, it really is no big deal. The dust cover is easy to bend back out of the way. I tried a 15" wheel, stock 4 runner alloy, it fit fine with the stock brakes but it wasn't even close to fitting with the Tundra parts.

I'll post when I test drive it, the pedal feels great so I'm hoping for the best.

Bottom line is if you can change a caliper out, then you can do this mod.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Last update. This is a great mod. Like others have said, it feels like a 50% increase in braking power. I bedded in the parts by doing several 60 to 10mph stops, each a little harder than the last. Let them cool and went for a drive around town, then went for a short trail ride. ABS comes in a little quicker in the dirt, but a push of the locker button got the ABS pump to shut-up, and the truck just stops better now. Less pedal pressure does the same thing. My camera battery died while taking pics of the parts and I already had the truck in the air so no pics from me. Check out argonzeros thread for pics and a much better write-up, its linked in the first post of this thread. And thanks again to all who have done this and taken the time to post about it.
 

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You are going to hate the drilled rotors in a few months. They tend to warp easily since there is so much material taken away is weakens them and most shops wont turn them.
 

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Thanks for posting this! I'm going to do it next! Was looking for a brake upgrade and this sounds better than I imagined.

Is this too positive of a post after PinkTaco's kill-joy? Hey Pinky...I'm going to buy slotted and drilled rotors too! :flipoff1:
 

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v6samurai86 said:
Thanks for posting this! I'm going to do it next! Was looking for a brake upgrade and this sounds better than I imagined.

Is this too positive of a post after PinkTaco's kill-joy? Hey Pinky...I'm going to buy slotted and drilled rotors too! :flipoff1:
I dont give a shit what you do, its your money. I would just buy sloted rotors. Cross drilled can get clogged up with mud too and cause some problems with the pads.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
No problem. As for the drilled / slotted rotors, just get whatever you want. I've heard about problems with drilled packing with mud, but I live in the dez and don't run mud unless I need to. If my rotors crack I'll update this thread. I've heard lots of talk about cracking drilled rotors, but its all been "I heard" talk, nothing from anybody who said "my rotors cracked at the holes". I have had blank rotors crack, but that was from a stuck caliper dragging badly. Always open to good info though, if anybody has real experience with cracking rotors please jump in.

The best performing combo would probably be Brembo blank rotors with some hi-po pads. But the cool deal about this is that the new parts are so much bigger than stock that I suspect most cheap parts will work great. Those Chinese rotors that would be marginal on a Tundra will probably last for years on a Taco.
 

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No problem. As for the drilled / slotted rotors, just get whatever you want. I've heard about problems with drilled packing with mud, but I live in the dez and don't run mud unless I need to. If my rotors crack I'll update this thread. I've heard lots of talk about cracking drilled rotors, but its all been "I heard" talk, nothing from anybody who said "my rotors cracked at the holes". I have had blank rotors crack, but that was from a stuck caliper dragging badly. Always open to good info though, if anybody has real experience with cracking rotors please jump in.

The best performing combo would probably be Brembo blank rotors with some hi-po pads. But the cool deal about this is that the new parts are so much bigger than stock that I suspect most cheap parts will work great. Those Chinese rotors that would be marginal on a Tundra will probably last for years on a Taco.
here are some cracked slotted rotors from a jetta... you are not going to crack a set of rotors unless you race them or abuse them, if you race them you should be putting in more into your brakes than you probably ever do (fresh fluid and pads every race.. rotors a bit less often but still more than you want to spend thats for sure.. ) if you are towing the max limit on a tacoma your trailer should have brakes.

I seriously doubt that anyone has cracked a rotor without abuse or mechanical failure of a braking component.

 
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