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Discussion Starter #1
well i got the drivers CV replaced under warranty last wendsday.

I drove around town working on thursday and friday. No problem.

I get up saturday morning to go get kaliches (sp?), pull out of the drive way and the damn front end is making all kinds of noise. drive down the street a little bit and the noise is getting worse.

Turn around and call Toyota and tell them to come get my truck.

So they have had it since Saturday.

Today they tell me that acuator on the front diff is stuck in 4wd. but only on the drivers side.

This is the demo they gave me

Truck on lift in 2wd spin passenger tire no driveshaft turning

truck on lift in 2wd sping drivers tire driveshaft turns

they are covering under warranty

but can you guys think of anyway that this can happen??

Justin
 

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some add actuators will just go bad and either get stuck in 2wd or 4wd.. lindsays last got stuck in 2wd LMAO. i was gonna say if they dotn warranty it i could get u a new(used) actuator for pretty good price.


I have manual hubs and manual diff but I'm about to put an ADD diff up front so i can switch off the front diff without unlocking hubs on tight turns on trail :D I'm gonna pick up a few xtra ADD actuators for tacomas cant hurt :)
 

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Ricks72 said:
Dude are you kidding, I think you should just get twin sticks it would be a hella lot cheaper

I'm keeping my manual hubs up front dude im just tossing a ADD diff up there and keeping my manual hub CV's up front as well. only difference between manual hub diff and ADD diff is the passanger side axle tube ADD has the actuator manual hub dont.

besides the only cost to me to do this is $ to refill the diff and $2 toggle switch to put in dash to turn on the front diff and turn it off. the spare actuators are running me $20 each at a local parts yard. and those are optional. The parts yard guy gave me a MAF and an EGR vaccum silenoid :)

i wasnt going to convert my whole truck to ADD LMAO

the ADD diff is being given to me by a buddy in huntsville.
 

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99FlowedTaco said:
I'm keeping my manual hubs up front dude im just tossing a ADD diff up there and keeping my manual hub CV's up front as well. only difference between manual hub diff and ADD diff is the passanger side axle tube ADD has the actuator manual hub dont.

besides the only cost to me to do this is $ to refill the diff and $2 toggle switch to put in dash to turn on the front diff and turn it off. the spare actuators are running me $20 each at a local parts yard. and those are optional. The parts yard guy gave me a MAF and an EGR vaccum silenoid :)

i wasnt going to convert my whole truck to ADD LMAO

the ADD diff is being given to me by a buddy in huntsville.
Ah gotcha ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
well i got the truck back. turns out that the diff imploded on itself.

So i got a brand new diff covered under warranty

can't complain about that


Justin
 

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99FlowedTaco said:
some add actuators will just go bad and either get stuck in 2wd or 4wd.. lindsays last got stuck in 2wd LMAO. i was gonna say if they dotn warranty it i could get u a new(used) actuator for pretty good price.


I have manual hubs and manual diff but I'm about to put an ADD diff up front so i can switch off the front diff without unlocking hubs on tight turns on trail :D I'm gonna pick up a few xtra ADD actuators for tacomas cant hurt :)
With all due respect, it doesn't sound like y'all really understand how the ADD axle works.

There is a sliding sleeve on the passenger side output. When it is disengaged on a truck with ADD shafts, the carrier [driveshaft] stays still but the spider gears spin, and the intermediate shaft counter-rotates.

If you put an ADD actuator [which requires a bit more than a simple $2 switch to work properly; trust me, I have bench tested numerous actuators, and they function on polarity reversal] on a manual hub truck with a front locker, it will NOT provide the same function as twin sticks. If 4WD is engaged [presumably to stay in low xfer gear] with the hubs locked, the driver side axle will still be locked to the rear and ALL the torque will go to that CV. This is a recipe for carnage.
 

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Murderman said:
If you put an ADD actuator [which requires a bit more than a simple $2 switch to work properly; trust me, I have bench tested numerous actuators, and they function on polarity reversal]
I'm very familiar with both types of actuators, vac powered and electric powered. Currently, my t-case operates on an electric actuator and my front diff is vac powered. Both are controlled via a simple double pole/double throw switch ($3.99 at Radioshack).

The electric actuators are complex as you are dealing not only with polarity reversal but also the limit switches on the motor. I've been through all of the schematics and went through ideas of relays controlling relays in order to get the electric actuator to work correctly. Eventually it came down to simply using the limit switches as the ground for the motor. The entire operation is controlled with a $3.99 DPDT switch. The setup has worked flawlessly since I completed my conversion in Feb.

The vac powered actuators (and this is what Mitch will be using) is very basic in operation. 2 vac selnoids control what direction the actuator moves. Both of these selnoids can be easily controlled with the same DPDT switch stated above. The switch will simply provide power to 1 actuator at a time. Nothing very complex.

...on a manual hub truck with a front locker, it will NOT provide the same function as twin sticks. If 4WD is engaged [presumably to stay in low xfer gear] with the hubs locked, the driver side axle will still be locked to the rear and ALL the torque will go to that CV. This is a recipe for carnage.
Correct, in 4WD with an auto locked diff disengaged it is still receiving power to the driver CV at the same rate as the rear. While torque will be applied to the drivers CV, it's not enough to snap it if used in the correct conditions. If you are trying to crawl rocks in 4lo and for some reason have your diff disengaged then yes, you are likely to snap a CV. But if you are disengaging it in order to make a turn or beacause the trail is very easy, it would be difficult to snap.

Disengaging auto locked diffs while in 4WD is nothing new. Dick Foster is the first person that I know of that did the mod and he had no trouble. I've done a couple of wheeling trips with my auto locked ADD diff (one of them at Gilmer for TXTO '06) and haven't had any problems with my drivers CV.
 

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Harold, you do indeed understand how it all works. That being said, I would expect your greater appreciation for the badness of this idea; it is twin sticks for the passenger front at the expense of the drivers.

I shift into 2 lo probably 50-100 times a day when on the trail; it is indeed way beneficial for an auto locked front. This "solution" is not at all the same; do y'all'selves a fovor, and get real twin sticks.
 
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