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I dont know if there are any differences between them, besides price. Anyone have any good/bad experiences want to post up? I am trying to decide between the 2. Any help is appreciated....
 

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Is it Total Chaos that makes one? I think that the Allpro ones are longer than stock, the Camburgs are stock length, and I'm not sure about the TC ones. They are also welded differntly I believe. Allpro's are TIG and the others, I think, are MIG welded. Good post, I'd like to hear what others have to say too.
 

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Breathegood said:
Is it Total Chaos that makes one? I think that the Allpro ones are longer than stock, the Camburgs are stock length, and I'm not sure about the TC ones. They are also welded differntly I believe. Allpro's are TIG and the others, I think, are MIG welded. Good post, I'd like to hear what others have to say too.
Hmm I totally forgot about Total Chaos. You know how much they run? I couldnt figure it out on their website..... Thanks man...
 

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From Scott at Camburg on Tundrasolutions:

Total Chaos makes great products, but here are the reasons why our upper arms are a better product and value than theirs.

1) We use a higher quality Aurora 1.00" teflonlined uniball. It is both made and assembled in the USA. The next best bearing is a mil-spec NHBB that is about 4x the cost and no one supplies with a kit. In our little world we don't need anything stronger, unlike the aerospace industry.

2) We were the first to offer zerk grease fittings on the a-arm that are used in conjuction with thicker walled 7/8" CNC machined sleeves and energy suspension polyurethane bushings. This offers less deflection in the arm and keeps the geometry more accurate.

3) We use a smaller 5/8" F-911 bolt compared to TC's 3/4". Since we're using a smaller diameter bolt we're able to get more mis-alignment out of the uniball. Strength is not compromised since we're using an aircraft grade F911 bolt. Your spindle will break way before that bolt does.

4) All our mis-alignment spacers are machined from 17-4 stainless steel. We use nothing but the best. One of the huge differences is how our lower uniball/spindle insert is. It is considerably stronger and costs a lot more to machine. TC and others do it as two pieces which isnt as strong and costs less to make. We have a ton more shear lateral strength because of our design.

5) We put more castor into the arms which gives better straightline stability both on and off-road.

6) The design and geometry TC has will cause the spindle to hit the frame/coil bucket on full compression. We have plenty of clearance. Sprindles or any suspension components coming into contact with anything is a design flaw and shouldnt take place.

7) We use a high-gloss steel gray powdercoat, not black. It holds up very well and we've had ZERO problems or complaints.

8) I'm not sure if TC supplies you with polyurethane grease, we do. We also supply you with zinc-plated washers, just like TC.



- Scott Zindroski

me now:
O ya, and there less $$$ than Total Chaos. When I get the cash ill be runnin the camburg arms. Honestly, you cant go wrong with either, but why not save a few bones?
 

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scottnmos said:
I dont know if there are any differences between them, besides price. Anyone have any good/bad experiences want to post up? I am trying to decide between the 2. Any help is appreciated....
Camburg, Allpro and Total Chaos are the 3 brands you'll find posted about. I have the Camburgs and they are great. ;)
 

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i also have the camburgs and they're awesome...i have the older ones without zerk fittings, and they start to squeek once in a while, but a little lube and they're good to go. on the new ones with zerk fittings it isnt really an issue because they're so easy to regrease
 

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YoTRacer158 said:
i also have the camburgs and they're awesome...i have the older ones without zerk fittings, and they start to squeek once in a while, but a little lube and they're good to go. on the new ones with zerk fittings it isnt really an issue because they're so easy to regrease
do you just pull them out and regrease the bushings? that's all I've been doing...or is there an easier way?
 

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yeah that's what i do...a shot of wd40 will fix it once in a while but usually it takes some grease. i've got a bad squeek now but i have no idea where it's comming from
 

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YoTRacer158 said:
yeah that's what i do...a shot of wd40 will fix it once in a while but usually it takes some grease. i've got a bad squeek now but i have no idea where it's comming from
yea, I tried the wd the first time but broke down and took them appart soon after. did you read Scott's post (Camburg) about not greasing the outer portion of the bushings? not the flat part that is against the big washers but the round, outside diameter of the bushing. We are only supposed to be lubing the inner portion and the sleave as well as the outer flat part.
 

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hytenor said:
yea, I tried the wd the first time but broke down and took them appart soon after. did you read Scott's post (Camburg) about not greasing the outer portion of the bushings? not the flat part that is against the big washers but the round, outside diameter of the bushing. We are only supposed to be lubing the inner portion and the sleave as well as the outer flat part.
i hadnt seen that, thanks for the heads up
 

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hytenor said:
Camburg, Allpro and Total Chaos are the 3 brands you'll find posted about. I have the Camburgs and they are great. ;)
how much did they cost? u get shocks with them, or just the arms?
 

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schcott said:
how much did they cost? u get shocks with them, or just the arms?
I bought my 5150s direct from Camburg but got the uniballs from Corey when he was peddling parts ;)

At the time the arms ran $425
 

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^^ aight thx....wow, thas quit a bit, to much for me i think
 

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Inland trucks in Lake elsinore makes a set of A arms. I was reading on the Yota tech board yesterday that their price is falling substantially because there supplier has grone and can now mass produce the arms. I think they said the price was 290. inlandtrucks.com
 

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scottnmos said:
I dont know if there are any differences between them, besides price. Anyone have any good/bad experiences want to post up? I am trying to decide between the 2. Any help is appreciated....
We sell allot of Camburg arms and everything Scott said seems to ring true.

The price of the arms have gone up. 499.00 now and you really need to run a coi lover lift with them to reep the benefit!

If you have any questions please let me know.
 

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4BYnTacoma said:
Inland trucks in Lake elsinore makes a set of A arms. I was reading on the Yota tech board yesterday that their price is falling substantially because there supplier has grone and can now mass produce the arms. I think they said the price was 290. inlandtrucks.com
I have seen a few people with these, they run stock ball joints and from what I have "Herd" they didn't build them right and your looking for trouble with these!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
cb77DEMELLO said:
We sell allot of Camburg arms and everything Scott said seems to ring true.

The price of the arms have gone up. 499.00 now and you really need to run a coi lover lift with them to reep the benefit!

If you have any questions please let me know.
Thanks for the heads up jason. I am running SAWs now so I think I'll be OK. Is there a TTORA discount??? :D I guess 499 to save my balljoints isnt too bad. I was planning on going with camburg, but I saw the reinforced eyes of the total chaos and started wondering if they were better. However, taking it from the board.... camburg has the best reputation... I think I'll go with them. When I get back from deployment I'll give you a call and order up some....... thanks
 

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scottnmos said:
I dont know if there are any differences between them, besides price. Anyone have any good/bad experiences want to post up? I am trying to decide between the 2. Any help is appreciated....
just my opinion. but i have a set of aftermarket arms that i bought for 200 used. even at 200, these arms are about the biggest waste of money possible. i only got them bc they are longer than stock and help correct a negative camber problem that i had. from a performance standpoint, they do zero.

besides, the stock upper ball joint is not too bad. it looks weak but how many people here do you know actually change them on a regular basis? i've wheeled my truck on a fairly consistent basis for the last 4 years-enough to cause almost all my other front end parts to fail and when i pulled the stock arms off to change to the aftermarket arms, the upper ball joints were still in decent condition. for almost all the members here, i.e. unless you are bonzing down the baja peninsula, the uniball phenomenom is 99% hype.

so unless you just have a wad of cash burning a hole in your pocket and have to have them for the coolness factor, i would suggest spending 400 on something more useful like lockers, sliders, bumpers, deavers, shocks, etc.
 

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My arms are oozing grease after like 6 off road trips and only like 3 of those times was I charging around above 15-20 mph and what I do is a far cry from "bonzing down the baja peninsula". Maybe I just had bad luck.
 

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peekay331 said:
just my opinion. but i have a set of aftermarket arms that i bought for 200 used. even at 200, these arms are about the biggest waste of money possible. i only got them bc they are longer than stock and help correct a negative camber problem that i had. from a performance standpoint, they do zero.

besides, the stock upper ball joint is not too bad. it looks weak but how many people here do you know actually change them on a regular basis? i've wheeled my truck on a fairly consistent basis for the last 4 years-enough to cause almost all my other front end parts to fail and when i pulled the stock arms off to change to the aftermarket arms, the upper ball joints were still in decent condition. for almost all the members here, i.e. unless you are bonzing down the baja peninsula, the uniball phenomenom is 99% hype.

so unless you just have a wad of cash burning a hole in your pocket and have to have them for the coolness factor, i would suggest spending 400 on something more useful like lockers, sliders, bumpers, deavers, shocks, etc.

There is a post by Donahoe around here somewhere explaining the real gain from running upper arms has to do with the roll center. So those looking to gain very little bit of drivibility out of their lifted truck should do them. Droop gain doesn't seem to make that much a difference according to him.
 
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