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Hello to all of you out there with the same problem as I had for the past year. After many hours of work, money spent on three consecutive front end alignments, what I did, paid off. First, after reading all the posts with this problem, your front end is fine.....1st (as long as you put a drop diff kit in), 2nd your drive shaft is fine as well, and does not need to be balanced, 3rd you do not need shim kits in the rear axle, and 4th your center bearing is fine as well. So what is it you ask? I have a new 2006 Tacoma extra cab, TRD Sport...I put a 3 inch suspension lift on it...add a leafs on back, lift blocks between the front shock and tower....had a bad vibration through the floor boards between 30 and 60 MPH...put it in 4 wheel drive, the vibration goes away. The Toyota dealership said it was the front end (too much torque on the front axles). They were wrong....first thing, if coming from the front end, you would feel more in the steering wheel...when coming from the floor board, it is the drive shaft. To make this short, so I do not have to write a book here, there are two things that I have done that makes my truck better then new. I also left out..when I bought my truck, when I took off from a start, there was a slight shake, never thought about it until the lift kit. Then, thats where I experimented.......When lifting the truck, the best thing to do is putting about a 1/4 of spacer between the the center carrier joint mount of the drive shaft and the frame (your stock bolts will still work). Next (and this is the trick), run a chaulk line (or anything straight) under the rear axle, from the (center) of the rear pinion flange to the rear (center) flange of the tansmission driveshaft mount...(YOU WILL SEE THIS IS NOT RUNNING IN A STRAIGHT LINE) Now listen, the center carrier mount can move about an 1/8 on an inch to the left or right when loosened. ...Once you get the straight line, you can shift it to the side as appropriate. On Mine, I moved it as far as I can to the drivers side...trucks will vary. To make this sense to anyone out there...your drive shaft has to run in a straight line, once there is so much torque on the soft rubber bushing as the motor cranks to the right. it tends to pull more to the passenger side. Also, If your rear leans more to one side when you install a lift kit, you will get the vibrations). Geometrically, a drive shaft that is balanced, is running straight, but once there is a lateral (side shift) , it wll run off key, (like an unbalanced dive shaft) like what we have here on the new split shaft drive shaft with the center carrier bearing. But just stop and think, the torque runs to the right...so it is not running true....just try this. My Tacoma drive much better then it did....and I can hardly even feel the vibration that I did...it is even better on gas! Less friction of course!!!! It is so late, and I hope I explained this ok, but I had to get through the sign up process to get this message out there..any questions from anyone...please let me know...The chaulk line trick is your your tool here....if anyone has any results, please let me know.. Thanks, and drive safe out there! chain
 

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I have heard of people doing this, but I hear it makes its way back to being in the wrong spot after time - making this something you may have to do often

What would be needed is something to run in between to stop the bolts from sliding - thus holding it in the spot you want it.

Let me know how yours goes and if you find that it returns or not.
 

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Going John Galt
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Hello to all of you out there with the same problem as I had for the past year. After many hours of work, money spent on three consecutive front end alignments, what I did, paid off. First, after reading all the posts with this problem, your front end is fine.....1st (as long as you put a drop diff kit in), 2nd your drive shaft is fine as well, and does not need to be balanced, 3rd you do not need shim kits in the rear axle, and 4th your center bearing is fine as well. So what is it you ask? I have a new 2006 Tacoma extra cab, TRD Sport...I put a 3 inch suspension lift on it...add a leafs on back, lift blocks between the front shock and tower....had a bad vibration through the floor boards between 30 and 60 MPH...put it in 4 wheel drive, the vibration goes away. The Toyota dealership said it was the front end (too much torque on the front axles). They were wrong....first thing, if coming from the front end, you would feel more in the steering wheel...when coming from the floor board, it is the drive shaft. To make this short, so I do not have to write a book here, there are two things that I have done that makes my truck better then new. I also left out..when I bought my truck, when I took off from a start, there was a slight shake, never thought about it until the lift kit. Then, thats where I experimented.......When lifting the truck, the best thing to do is putting about a 1/4 of spacer between the the center carrier joint mount of the drive shaft and the frame (your stock bolts will still work). Next (and this is the trick), run a chaulk line (or anything straight) under the rear axle, from the (center) of the rear pinion flange to the rear (center) flange of the tansmission driveshaft mount...(YOU WILL SEE THIS IS NOT RUNNING IN A STRAIGHT LINE) Now listen, the center carrier mount can move about an 1/8 on an inch to the left or right when loosened. ...Once you get the straight line, you can shift it to the side as appropriate. On Mine, I moved it as far as I can to the drivers side...trucks will vary. To make this sense to anyone out there...your drive shaft has to run in a straight line, once there is so much torque on the soft rubber bushing as the motor cranks to the right. it tends to pull more to the passenger side. Also, If your rear leans more to one side when you install a lift kit, you will get the vibrations). Geometrically, a drive shaft that is balanced, is running straight, but once there is a lateral (side shift) , it wll run off key, (like an unbalanced dive shaft) like what we have here on the new split shaft drive shaft with the center carrier bearing. But just stop and think, the torque runs to the right...so it is not running true....just try this. My Tacoma drive much better then it did....and I can hardly even feel the vibration that I did...it is even better on gas! Less friction of course!!!! It is so late, and I hope I explained this ok, but I had to get through the sign up process to get this message out there..any questions from anyone...please let me know...The chaulk line trick is your your tool here....if anyone has any results, please let me know.. Thanks, and drive safe out there! chain
very interesting as Toyota doesn't seem to have figured this problem out.
keep taking notes as to your progress with this mod. ;)
 

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Got rid of my vibe issue with a one piece DS. I tried what you did and it didn't help my truck. Plus, many mfr's run the DS with up to 1.0 inch of driveline offset from trans to diff. This helps maintain working angle when the pinion climbs. I honestly think that you got most of your improvement from the carrier bearing drop, and maybe a little from centering the center bearing. Let us know if you get rid of the vibe 100%. I just put the dakars on my truck, and with the extra lift, I got back a small amount of vibe. Now I have to chase it down and fix it...AGAIN:mad:
 

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I will follow this thread with interest - I have had an alignment issue since the truck was lifted, keeps pulling to the right (pass side) no matter how many times it went on the rack. But when the Tech put the stock wheels and tires back on the alignment was perfect -you may be on to something here. Good work thus far.
 

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I will follow this thread with interest - I have had an alignment issue since the truck was lifted, keeps pulling to the right (pass side) no matter how many times it went on the rack. But when the Tech put the stock wheels and tires back on the alignment was perfect -you may be on to something here. Good work thus far.
What does wheel alignment have to do with a DS vibe issue? :confused:
 

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Got rid of my vibe issue with a one piece DS. I tried what you did and it didn't help my truck. Plus, many mfr's run the DS with up to 1.0 inch of driveline offset from trans to diff. This helps maintain working angle when the pinion climbs. I honestly think that you got most of your improvement from the carrier bearing drop, and maybe a little from centering the center bearing. Let us know if you get rid of the vibe 100%. I just put the dakars on my truck, and with the extra lift, I got back a small amount of vibe. Now I have to chase it down and fix it...AGAIN:mad:
X2 - just put on Dakar OME's with DR rear shocks - got a small vibe from 20MPH - 30 MPH. I am going to wait a few weeks to break them in before trying to chase it down.

My stock springs had a small vibe also -but after wheeling it for a day it went away - i am assuming due to break in so I amhoping for the same luck - wishful thinkin I know :)
 

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Going John Galt
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I will follow this thread with interest - I have had an alignment issue since the truck was lifted, keeps pulling to the right (pass side) no matter how many times it went on the rack. But when the Tech put the stock wheels and tires back on the alignment was perfect -you may be on to something here. Good work thus far.
If swapping wheels/tires made that much difference the problem ain't the alignment. get those rims and tires checked for true.
 

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If swapping wheels/tires made that much difference the problem ain't the alignment. get those rims and tires checked for true.
X2 seems logical, doesn't it:)
 
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