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Discussion Starter #1
The rear TM crossmember on my truck has a 3/4" long crack. Its located at the driver side near the cam bolt of the lower a-arm and the steering gear. Its under the letter C in the attached pic. It starts from the edge. If I run my finger over it I can feel that it forms a "ledge". That means the crack is not just a hairline crack but runs on the other side of the metal too.

Any suggestions on how I can repair this by welding? Do I just weld a bead over the crack? Or should I grind into it to form a bevel and then weld?
 

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NorCal Chapter Pres
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A trick some steel fabricators use to fill in cracks are to drill two holes a little further than the ends of the crack. you then weld from one hole to the other then fill the hole.

When you weld, the crack may run from you. Driling a hole on either end ensures that the crack will not travel anymore since there are no corners for it to start forming again...
 

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NorcalPR said:
A trick some steel fabricators use to fill in cracks are to drill two holes a little further than the ends of the crack. you then weld from one hole to the other then fill the hole.

When you weld, the crack may run from you. Driling a hole on either end ensures that the crack will not travel anymore since there are no corners for it to start forming again...
for that thick of steel i dont think the crack will start moving.... at least not with a welder actually rated to handle it. but granted that not everyone has access to a welder that can do it in one pass it would be a good idea. but plan on welding past the hole and the crack. the steel after it will already be stressed so it would be a good idea to prevent further problems
 

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You never know, expecially when the weld has been exerted to so much stress that it cracked (either that or a poor pas at the factory).

You do have a point on welding the whole thing. Wouldn't hurt to do that!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks guys for the advice.
I plan to rent a 100 amp wire fed welder from Home Depot to repair this crack.
 

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AR10fan said:
Thanks guys for the advice.
I plan to rent a 100 amp wire fed welder from Home Depot to repair this crack.
You better get a mapp gas torch to preheat it before you burn it. That thicker material will not like you starting a cold weld on it. And practice before you try it on some scrap metal.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
rojodiablo said:
You better get a mapp gas torch to preheat it before you burn it. That thicker material will not like you starting a cold weld on it. And practice before you try it on some scrap metal.
Excellent advice. I'll pick up a MAPP gas torch too.
Thanks.
 

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What's the thickets that wire feed will do?

It shouldn't be one of those dinky ones that plugs into a wall outlet. I also wouldn't use flux cored wire, use a solid core with gas.

If you get a welder for 220, you shouldn't have to preheat it at all.
 

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NorcalPR said:
What's the thickets that wire feed will do?

It shouldn't be one of those dinky ones that plugs into a wall outlet. I also wouldn't use flux cored wire, use a solid core with gas.

If you get a welder for 220, you shouldn't have to preheat it at all.

I called Home Depot and they said the welder can only weld up to 3/16" thick metal. I measured the crossmember and its made of 1/4" steel. That is a problem. I guess I will have to make do with whats available.
 

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NorcalPR said:
What's the thickets that wire feed will do?

It shouldn't be one of those dinky ones that plugs into a wall outlet. I also wouldn't use flux cored wire, use a solid core with gas.

If you get a welder for 220, you shouldn't have to preheat it at all.
You don't weld "THICKETS" .... they are in a field, you walk through them when hunting rabbit/ pheasant. :D
 

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AR10fan said:
I called Home Depot and they said the welder can only weld up to 3/16" thick metal. I measured the crossmember and its made of 1/4" steel. That is a problem. I guess I will have to make do with whats available.
You can do it. I have some better advice. Post up where you are from, and how far you would be able to travel. Say, for some beer and a few$$$ you could get someone close to you to help you do the job correctly. As to the welder: You can weld the 1/4" steel with that welder. It takes some serious practice to get it right. To really do it right, you would clean, and work to fill that gap I see in the pic. The biggest thing is that if you weld it, and it is not a good weld, the whole mess just got worse, as the cracking will likely be harder to fix the 2nd time. So, maybe try a post like: I have $50, a case of beer, I live in (Insert town) and I need this fixed. Please help. We are a good bunch of people, and someone will help you for sure. Paul.
 

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AR10fan said:
Thanks guys for the advice.
I plan to rent a 100 amp wire fed welder from Home Depot to repair this crack.

i would find someone with a bigger welder. i have a 125 and that is about the minimum i would use to do repairs on anything thats 3/16 or larger....
 

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Remember though, HD says 3/16, that's with multiple passes...

Those little welders aren't worth anything for that size unless you are a good welder and know what settings to set it at...

-Phill
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I do have a more capable welder. Its been aboard the truck itself for more than 5 years now. Its a 160 amp DC Arc Welder.

http://www.premierpowerwelder.com/specs/PP160.html

The only reason why I considered the Home Depot rented welder was because I'm concerned about using the Premier Power welder on the truck while the engine is running. I fear I might fry some electronic components. I guess I will have to risk it and use REVERSE POLARITY as recommended in the manual. I think no harm would occur. I might even remove some fuses on electrical components that are not necessary to run the engine just as added precaution.

I have practiced with it before on scrap metal and came up with some decent welds. That was several years ago. So I will have to do more practice, particularly on multiple pass techniques.
 

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AR10fan said:
I do have a more capable welder. Its been aboard the truck itself for more than 5 years now. Its a 160 amp DC Arc Welder.

http://www.premierpowerwelder.com/specs/PP160.html

The only reason why I considered the Home Depot rented welder was because I'm concerned about using the Premier Power welder on the truck while the engine is running. I fear I might fry some electronic components. I guess I will have to risk it and use REVERSE POLARITY as recommended in the manual. I think no harm would occur. I might even remove some fuses on electrical components that are not necessary to run the engine just as added precaution.

I have practiced with it before on scrap metal and came up with some decent welds. That was several years ago. So I will have to do more practice, particularly on multiple pass techniques.
With DC and no high frequency start, you can weld right on the truck safely.
 

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AR10fan said:
I do have a more capable welder. Its been aboard the truck itself for more than 5 years now. Its a 160 amp DC Arc Welder.

http://www.premierpowerwelder.com/specs/PP160.html

The only reason why I considered the Home Depot rented welder was because I'm concerned about using the Premier Power welder on the truck while the engine is running. I fear I might fry some electronic components. I guess I will have to risk it and use REVERSE POLARITY as recommended in the manual. I think no harm would occur. I might even remove some fuses on electrical components that are not necessary to run the engine just as added precaution.

I have practiced with it before on scrap metal and came up with some decent welds. That was several years ago. So I will have to do more practice, particularly on multiple pass techniques.

why reverse polarity? you aren't welding aluminum.....
 

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I'm assuming you will be using a stick welder?

You may want to try using a 6011 stick. Good rod for all around use that has great penetration. If you lay mutiple beads, make sure there is NO SLAG, or you will be running into the same problem again.

I would even grind the area down clean as a extra precaution.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
tacotoy said:
why reverse polarity? you aren't welding aluminum.....
The Premier Power Welder manual recommends it when welding on the truck where the welder is also installed.
 
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