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Discussion Starter #1
Hmm, I believe I got the whole brake problem almost sorted out. I still have a small vacuum leak, but I'll look into that tomorrow. This evening I went to pull my truck out of the shop for another test run after nearly completing my SAS, and as I began to drive, the rear drive shaft came apart. The splined end came out of the yoke. Of the many posts that I've read, I haven't seen anyone replacing their rear drive shaft. I assume that the drive shaft came apart because I gave it some gas, causing bad axle wrap, disconnecting hte drive shaft. When I look at the drive shaft, the splined part only goes into the yoke about 3/4". I have Pro Comp 3.5" lift blocks along with 63" chevy rears. anyone else had this problem? Currently, my truck is sitting 1"-2" higher in the rear than the front. I could cut 1" off of the lift block, but after doing the math, I would only gain around 1/2 of drive shaft. THIS SUCKS! anyway, tell me waht you think.

brenton
 

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supahonkey said:
Hmm, I believe I got the whole brake problem almost sorted out. I still have a small vacuum leak, but I'll look into that tomorrow. This evening I went to pull my truck out of the shop for another test run after nearly completing my SAS, and as I began to drive, the rear drive shaft came apart. The splined end came out of the yoke. Of the many posts that I've read, I haven't seen anyone replacing their rear drive shaft. I assume that the drive shaft came apart because I gave it some gas, causing bad axle wrap, disconnecting hte drive shaft. When I look at the drive shaft, the splined part only goes into the yoke about 3/4". I have Pro Comp 3.5" lift blocks along with 63" chevy rears. anyone else had this problem? Currently, my truck is sitting 1"-2" higher in the rear than the front. I could cut 1" off of the lift block, but after doing the math, I would only gain around 1/2 of drive shaft. THIS SUCKS! anyway, tell me waht you think.

brenton
Ask Yunny about that :D :D :D
 

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your math is wrong

cutting the block wont help your slip half an inch

what you did was move your axle when you did your swap....probably a good idea to drill new holes for your rear leaf spring hangars and move that axle forward


or you can ditch the block all together and run a longer shackle or if you want to get real creative...you can do a drop hangar for the rear shackle and eliminate the blocks all together
 

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supahonkey said:
Hmm, I believe I got the whole brake problem almost sorted out. I still have a small vacuum leak, but I'll look into that tomorrow. This evening I went to pull my truck out of the shop for another test run after nearly completing my SAS, and as I began to drive, the rear drive shaft came apart. The splined end came out of the yoke. Of the many posts that I've read, I haven't seen anyone replacing their rear drive shaft. I assume that the drive shaft came apart because I gave it some gas, causing bad axle wrap, disconnecting hte drive shaft. When I look at the drive shaft, the splined part only goes into the yoke about 3/4". I have Pro Comp 3.5" lift blocks along with 63" chevy rears. anyone else had this problem? Currently, my truck is sitting 1"-2" higher in the rear than the front. I could cut 1" off of the lift block, but after doing the math, I would only gain around 1/2 of drive shaft. THIS SUCKS! anyway, tell me waht you think.

brenton
I'd say you moved the axle back to far when doing the chevies. I had to much spline showing after my SAS too. moved the rear axle back too far-redid the mount and pulled the blocks (3") now no splines show at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I might do the rear shackle hangar because I really hate blocks so much, and I would do damn near anything to get rid of those mofos. So the object in the rear is to have no splines showing? if that's the case, then I'm about 3 inches away!
 

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supahonkey said:
I might do the rear shackle hangar because I really hate blocks so much, and I would do damn near anything to get rid of those mofos. So the object in the rear is to have no splines showing? if that's the case, then I'm about 3 inches away!
you had to redo the rear spring frnt leaf mount, right? I'd look at that as the cause of problems. Better to move front mount then shackle mount. IF axle too far rearward, when compressing it'll move back even farther. Compounding the issue.
anohter chevy leaf swap done here and they moved the axle back too far also, and he too has splines showing.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
yes, I did have to redo the rear spring hangars, but I did it 7.5" forward of the original mount, as everyone has told me to do. I guess i'll drill new holes in the blocks to move the axle forward. I was thinking that I might move it around 1" to 1.5" forward, do you think this is enough, or should I move it forward even more? Thanks.

Brenton
 

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supahonkey said:
yes, I did have to redo the rear spring hangars, but I did it 7.5" forward of the original mount, as everyone has told me to do. I guess i'll drill new holes in the blocks to move the axle forward. I was thinking that I might move it around 1" to 1.5" forward, do you think this is enough, or should I move it forward even more? Thanks.

Brenton
not usre if drilling new holes in blocks is a good idea.

I'm not usre how much you should move it. I'd go for wheel placement in the wheel well. I'd also consider moving it forward maybe 1/4-1/2". it'll move backwards on compression. On mine W 35" tires I'd rub. I'm currently installing the bushwacker cutouts. I hope this cures it.

jsut found out my front shackles are too far back. Causing to bend back to frame and then the leafs are compressing against it.
 

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You didnt move your spring hangers far enough forward when you did your leaf spring swap, you get more drive shaft extention at full bump than you do when its drooped out.. I can explain it in more detail if you want.

I did 62's on my truck and i noticed how at full droop the drive shaft actually got shorter not longer.
 

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YUNADERIS said:
damn Grumpy..... you said what i said ...so you saying what i said is a good thing as we say the same thing so saying the thing together is the best thing
now there you go trying to cnfuse me again.
 

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supahonkey said:
yes, I did have to redo the rear spring hangars, but I did it 7.5" forward of the original mount, as everyone has told me to do. I guess i'll drill new holes in the blocks to move the axle forward. I was thinking that I might move it around 1" to 1.5" forward, do you think this is enough, or should I move it forward even more? Thanks.

Brenton
First off asking ppl how to setup your truck is a bad idea, you should not be going off what people say here, you should have been cycling your suspension with it all tacked together, this will tell you if its going to work of fail, not going off someone elses measuring tape over the internet, the 7.5 or so was a rough estimate of what works, doesnt mean it works with all vehicles, chock it up as a learning experience and no go cycle your shit and find out whats wrong, which is what you should have done in the first place.

Just an FYI if you had done what im saying above the first time, you should have seen it was going to fall out before you ever got close to finishing it. now its going to be a bitch to fix.
 

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supahonkey said:
yes, I did have to redo the rear spring hangars, but I did it 7.5" forward of the original mount, as everyone has told me to do. I guess i'll drill new holes in the blocks to move the axle forward. I was thinking that I might move it around 1" to 1.5" forward, do you think this is enough, or should I move it forward even more? Thanks.

Brenton
I wrote this just for you!

http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum/showpost.php?p=15261&postcount=1
 

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Can't really cycle the suspension with it tacked up. But you can at least set it down off of the jackstands to get an idea of where it will be on flat ground. With 3" showing that would have been a big warning sign.

Probably worth noting that the amount you move your axle (7.5" mentioned above) will be different for 97 and earlier since they had shorter packs.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
hmmm, well, I temporarily solved that problem by cutting 1.5" from the lift blocks, which actually worked out nicely; the truck is now level. In a few weeks (once my bank account has time to recover from the SAS) I will buy the new front driveshaft along with a new rear shaft while I'm at it.
 
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