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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looking for info from guys that are Supercharge on clutch recommendations.
Stage 3?
Marlin?
etc...

done some searching - seems like alot of options out there, just want to make sure I don't put in a POS this time. Put in a Trail Gear when I put the crawler in...now there's a waste of money of coarse had I known then what I know now I would have never bought from them.
 

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TBob said:
Looking for info from guys that are Supercharge on clutch recommendations.
Stage 3?
Marlin?
etc...

done some searching - seems like alot of options out there, just want to make sure I don't put in a POS this time. Put in a Trail Gear when I put the crawler in...now there's a waste of money of coarse had I known then what I know now I would have never bought from them.
I have used the LC Engineering Dual Composite clutch with GREAT success! I really loved that clutch! Pedal pressure isnt too firm, engagement is very positive but not to the point you cant slip or finesse it, and holding power was amazing! I'd highly reccomend this clutch to anyone doing a clutch swap.
 

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I have the Spec Stage 3+ and it might engage a little too quick for crawling...you might be better of with the standard Stage 3 or maybe even a stage 2. I believe the stage 3 is still rated to about 450ft/lbs, and the engagement is a little smoother than the 3+. Don't get me wrong, the 3+ engagement isnt harsh by any means, i just think one of the lower stages might be a little better for crawling.
 

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The stage 3 is much more chatter prone than that 3+. I dont reccomend a stage 3 or 3+ for a vehicle with a crawler, I think the engagement would be way to harsh. The stage 1 or 2 would be a nice compliment though. I'm still sold for life on LCE clutches though. Or atleast till I have a bad experience.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
so what is the ft lb rating of the LC?
does anyone know what stock is? - it's like 400 isn't it?

BigMudTruk said:
The stage 3 is much more chatter prone than that 3+. I dont reccomend a stage 3 or 3+ for a vehicle with a crawler, I think the engagement would be way to harsh. The stage 1 or 2 would be a nice compliment though. I'm still sold for life on LCE clutches though. Or atleast till I have a bad experience.
 

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I tore through my stock clutch in no time with just the supercharger...I think it started slipping around 30k miles. If you have fuel mods or any other performance mods the stock clutch just cant handle it for too long (depending on how you drive of course)
 

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YoTRacer158 said:
I tore through my stock clutch in no time with just the supercharger...I think it started slipping around 30k miles. If you have fuel mods or any other performance mods the stock clutch just cant handle it for too long (depending on how you drive of course)
Mine lasted 2 weeks, but it had 79k on it and didn't like the power of the S/C and URD kit. I replaced mine with the ACT, Bob has felt the pedal pressure of mine but he's old and his left leg might not last a long crawling trail with the ACT.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
that is the point of the post I know stock isn't working.

YoTRacer158 said:
I tore through my stock clutch in no time with just the supercharger...I think it started slipping around 30k miles. If you have fuel mods or any other performance mods the stock clutch just cant handle it for too long (depending on how you drive of course)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I didn't think yours felt bad :asshat:

TimF said:
Mine lasted 2 weeks, but it had 79k on it and didn't like the power of the S/C and URD kit. I replaced mine with the ACT, Bob has felt the pedal pressure of mine but he's old and his left leg might not last a long crawling trail with the ACT.
 

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TBob said:
that is the point of the post I know stock isn't working.
You were asking about the stock clutches rated ft/lbs so I wasnt sure.
 

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I have a Southbend - DXD I installed it while I had a S/C and no crawler. It has been in for about 40k now and no issues. They don't stock a clutch for our application, but can build one. W/o the S/C it's a little too much clutch. I plan to replace it with a Stage 2.

I Just thought I would show you another option.
 

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ive got a marlin 1600 conventional clutch, it is awesome, by far the best clutch my truck has ever had.....

i used to have a centerforce dual friction, and it was better than stock by leaps and bounds but very snappy..... the marlin doesnt slip, and doesnt snap
 

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Wow, you guys are running your trucks pretty hard if they are not lasting over 30K. I have my blower and fuel mods on my truck since 20K miles. I am now at 170K miles and have replaced the clutch once with the TRD one at 100K. I used to race the truck in the California Rally Series for about 8 months, and that killed it. Now I crawl all over Az with a crawler coming in June and it does take a beating, but that thing is tough. I have had it so hot we could see it glowing one night. Talk about glazing. It took about two weeks to wear off the glazing and it returned to normal. Still has a ton of bite. Just my :2cents: They are lots of guys here that have lots of experience with this, listen to them. I must be the exception, not the rule.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
so whats with the turd one? how much stronger than stock?

Kaistie said:
Wow, you guys are running your trucks pretty hard if they are not lasting over 30K. I have my blower and fuel mods on my truck since 20K miles. I am now at 170K miles and have replaced the clutch once with the TRD one at 100K. I used to race the truck in the California Rally Series for about 8 months, and that killed it. Now I crawl all over Az with a crawler coming in June and it does take a beating, but that thing is tough. I have had it so hot we could see it glowing one night. Talk about glazing. It took about two weeks to wear off the glazing and it returned to normal. Still has a ton of bite. Just my :2cents: They are lots of guys here that have lots of experience with this, listen to them. I must be the exception, not the rule.
 

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I get around 40K out of the stock toyota clutches...and that includes alot of hard desert/sand driving. Just depends on how you drive it, and how bad you smoke it trying to do burn outs all the time or whatever lol. I might try the TRD one or some other aftermarket one next time. Personally I feel the clutch is the most inexpensive part of the the drivetrain, so I figure make it the weak link so the clutch will wear faster instead of that abuse going somewhere more vital.
 
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