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Hey guys, im just finishing up my sas on my 2001 dblc tacoma. I have the radius arm set up with a dana 44 front, and a ford 9" rear, from a 1978 Ford Bronco. Im trying to figure out what gears i should run??? And what would be a good chioce for lockers to run, front and rear???







 

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What size tires are you running? I'd do 5.38's, detroit rear ARB front. :2cents:
ding ding ding, or possible lower depending on your amount of freeway driving. i love me some low gears.
 

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5.38's work well on the 3.4 w/Auto & 37's. 4.88's cause the thing to lock & unlock the torque converter too often on the highway. As far as lockers, there's a lot of options from spool to detroit to selectable. I have ARB front & rear and love having total control of what to use on different terrain.


Post up some closer pictures of the front suspension. Did you use stock Ford radius arms or ???, coil-over type?
 

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Thanks guys for imput, looks like i might go with 5.38s, Detroit in the rear, and ARB in front!! Or how would some 5.13 gears do. I would still be doing some freeway driving??

As far as my front suspention, i used the Trail Gear 3 link kit for the older toyota! i just cut one link in half making radius arms. And yes i have the 14" king coil overs!!

Here are some pics!!





 

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If it were me, I would do it just the opposite. Put the Detroit in the front and an ARB in the rear.


An automatic locker (Detroit, Yukon as examples) in the rear will increase the turning radius because it pushes the front. This can become a problem on tight trails. Quite a few comp teams run a selectable locker in the rear and an auto locker in the front for this very reason.


For a Ford 9, ARB is the only selectable locker that I am aware of.

:2cents:

Wally
 

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How did i come up with this!! Well i researched as best as i could, on doing a sas on 2001-2004 tacomas. Couldnt find anything, there were no kits available for these years. Maybe leafs, but i wanted 4 or 3 link. Then i saw a few people on pirate that used the Bronco axles which were stock with radius arms. Main inperation was Dick Fosters Build!! These axles has the C bushing/mount, witch mainly wraps around the axle. I cut off the radius arm, then welded a custom braket for an upper and lower link. And instead of me peacing everything together i just bought the trail gear 3 link kit, wich had it all. As far as the frame brakets for the links, The links them selves, bungs, joints, panhard, rod ends, shock hoops, everything!! Of course there were alot of fabing and problems, but thats in everything!!:saw: So far the Radius arm setup works awsome.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
If it were me, I would do it just the opposite. Put the Detroit in the front and an ARB in the rear.


An automatic locker (Detroit, Yukon as examples) in the rear will increase the turning radius because it pushes the front. This can become a problem on tight trails. Quite a few comp teams run a selectable locker in the rear and an auto locker in the front for this very reason.


For a Ford 9, ARB is the only selectable locker that I am aware of.

:2cents:

Wally
Thanks for that imput im gonna have to keep that in mind!!!
 

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I ran a TRD electric locker in the rear for 5 years, now running Detroits front and rear for the last 18 mos. It pushes quite a bit, especially when aired down off road. If I had to do all over again, I would have run a selectable locker in the rear. It hasn't stopped me from getting where I want to go, in the tight stuff, sometimes I have to back up where others easily pulled the corner.

Pirate has quite a bit of info on the topic.

Start around post #44
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=927673&highlight=detroit+front+arb+rear&page=2


http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=589422&highlight=selectable+locker+rear+axle

Several pretty smart fabricators run their comp vehicles this way too.

Spydertrax Moon buggy specs

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=833390&highlight=detroit+front+arb+rear

Team Rubber Belly specs:

http://www.rubberbellyracing.com/4.html

Team Rubber Belly getting ready for KOH this last year

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=739681&highlight=rubber+belly+racing

Wally
 

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Powertrax Lockright. They work absoluetly amazing. I have the F/R. I love them. They unlock very well when turning and just driving straight. They help incredibly. Air locker is just to damn expensive. Where I am at, I don't see the need for it.

2.7l 37's 5.38's.. Should have gone 5.89s.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Wally[/QUOTE

I checked all these out. And to me i think your 100 percent correct!! I think im now going to run a Detroit front and ARB rear!! Thanks Man:cool:
 

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Powertrax Lockright. They work absoluetly amazing. I have the F/R. I love them. They unlock very well when turning and just driving straight. They help incredibly. Air locker is just to damn expensive. Where I am at, I don't see the need for it.

2.7l 37's 5.38's.. Should have gone 5.89s.
i have no faith in lockrights anymore. mine completely exploded on me and took out my while diff with it. running 35 12.5 km2's goin up a wall and i was barely spining. now im goin open rear and detroit up front for now till money allows for a selectable rear locker
 

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i have no faith in lockrights anymore. mine completely exploded on me and took out my while diff with it. running 35 12.5 km2's goin up a wall and i was barely spining. now im goin open rear and detroit up front for now till money allows for a selectable rear locker
Damn... :mad: That sucks. I've had great luck so far, only wheel once though since they have been put in. I hope it doesn't explode :/
 

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Id run grizzlies front and rear they are cheaper and the warranty is better than detroit. I would say ARB's but I hate a 9 inch arb. and if you dont have one in the rear I would not worry about one in the front. Whatever you decide well hook you up. Nice set-up
 

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have fun on snow/ice with a detroit :)
 

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Do the 5.13's. I ran them in the 78/79 Ford axles with the much larger and a lot heavier 11.00R16 Michelin XZL tires before going to tons and 40's. Plenty of power imo with out the funky shift points and good freeway rpms. Iirc that combo put me about 7% or 8% over stock #'s. With the tons, 5.38s on 40s, the truck is almost exactly 6% over stock. Sure a higher percentage over stock will get you off the line more power and torque feel, but your freeway rpm's will be higher and fuel mileage will suffer. On 37's I don't see a need to go higher. PM 4xClover he has my old axles and is running 37's to see what his thoughts are.
 
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