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Discussion Starter #1
I am basically calling on all those who run/have run 35's, or more specifically 315/75/16's on an early generation tacoma with ifs. This truck gets wheeled and will continue to, and also is used as a daily driver and hauls a bed full of tools. It will hopefully get less daily driver duties in the coming year, but for now it runs a lot of miles. I am still deliberating on going to 35's, I know it will be added work to get them to fit and blah blah blah adds stress, yeah I get that. This is an expensive hobby, what do I care if I gotta buy steering racks and wheel bearings, it's held up pretty damn good on 285's being beat to piss for the last few years. After searching heres what I've got-

tubbing the firewall-http://www.trailslesstraveled.com/article/clearance-for-35inch-tires-on-a-tacoma-at-any-lift-height/

Now I know they were long travel, so the next thing I've read about is running a spacer. Right now I run 2.0 SAW's with 285/75/16 Bighorns on 16x8 wheels with 4" backspacing. I plan to get total chaos uca's to go with my ext travel Donahoes I'm having rebuilt, and I'm not sure what I will need to keep the tires off the uca's, also as importantly the frame. I have read some guys say they had their tires grab the frame so hard it would lock it up, trying to avoid that. I'm thinking 1.25" Spidertrax, or going as thin as I need and can get away with. I've read some guys say 3.5" backspacing minimum, so if I ran a 1" that would give me 3", hopefully sufficient.

Lastly, how much trimming did you have to do? I have a 1" 4crawler body lift, so a little help there, but besides the fender at the firewall, did you have to clearance the entire fender opening, front and rear, and if so, about how much did you end up taking out? Since I daily drive this thing, to keep it legal I'd like to keep the stock fender flares, and they are the fiberglass ones from earlier generations mounted in the wheel opening, is it a given those things are gone?

I'm saving funds for diffs right now, debating between 4.88's and 4.56's, 4.88's if I go 35's, 4.56's if I stay at 285's.
 

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I would say it's a hell of a lot more work than it's worth unless you're gonna wheel it VERY frequently. :2cents:

Have fun breakin' shit!

Scoob, how many CV's you killed so far?
 

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I would say it's a hell of a lot more work than it's worth unless you're gonna wheel it VERY frequently. :2cents:

Have fun breakin' shit!

Scoob, how many CV's you killed so far?
i thought he was only on his 1st cv and that with a locker up front?

but either way it doesnt matter if you wheel it everyday or once a month, that extra inch of axle clearance you get is very important in some situations.
 

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2. One in the snow that wasn't really my fault and one in the rocks.
I'm planning on 33x12.50 with some trimming but no bigger. I might go 285's, but would like to have some width. I ran 35's on pre-taco IFS and it was like Insta-Death.
 

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Subscribed. :xpopcorn2 I'd love to install 35s next but I know it prolly won't happen. But I can still be curious.

I don't want to cut fender flares either. Don't wheel the rocks yet, may get into it a little but nothing major. Would a 1-2" BL get me in the ballpark for inner fender cutting leaving the exterior of the flares alone?

I got a few threads on the subject bookmarked I need to read. I dont remember if any of them had BLs.
 

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Subscribed. :xpopcorn2 I'd love to install 35s next but I know it prolly won't happen. But I can still be curious.

I don't want to cut fender flares either. Don't wheel the rocks yet, may get into it a little but nothing major. Would a 1-2" BL get me in the ballpark for inner fender cutting leaving the exterior of the flares alone?

I got a few threads on the subject bookmarked I need to read. I dont remember if any of them had BLs.
I installed a Body Lift on the first Toyota I ever owned, I'll never buy one again. They suck dick. :2cents:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Have you seen my thread or sixstringsteve's thread on this subject? If not, start looking. 3.5 is about right in the back spacing category.
Looked through your build thread, and can see you clearanced your wheel openings, I also know BrandonJenkins on here has kept his flares on, they are the 01-04 style flares with holes in the face, so I don't know how much he trimmed and how bad he rubs. I can't remember, but do you have a body lift? I will check out sixstringsteve's thread too, thanks man

I would say it's a hell of a lot more work than it's worth unless you're gonna wheel it VERY frequently. :2cents:

Have fun breakin' shit!

Scoob, how many CV's you killed so far?
Exactly what I said I don't give a shit about- Plus I don't plan to run a locker up front, Gotcope runs 37's on ifs with an open front diff and wheels his shit hard from what I can see

I installed a Body Lift on the first Toyota I ever owned, I'll never buy one again. They suck dick. :2cents:
you are very opinionated to the extreme my friend. I run a 1" 4crawler body lift, as do quite a few members on here, and they are generally recognized for their quality, and allow me to achieve what I am aiming for, more clearance. You seem to be missing something, I'm not asking for opinions on what I should buy and why, I can make my own decisions on that. To reiterate, I am on here looking for those who have run 35's on an ifs taco or similar 4runner, not an older truck, and I don't need opinions on whether I am a jackass for doing it or not, I wanna be a jackass, let me at it, cool? ;)


I guess the only way to really tell is to put them on and see where I have to trim. I figure I can get some close estimates on where I'll hit by pulling coilovers and articulating the front to kinda see how much and where, hopefully the numbers will be fairly close just by adding an inch+ to the circumference of my 285's and accounting for the extra width of the tire added to the increased backspacing of a wheel spacer. I also plan on going chevies in the rear at some point, so I hope longer bump stops will keep my rear tires from rubbing, plus pushing my axle back just enough to clear the front of the wheel opening, and I can cut my rear bumper side protection (cutting bedsides) to give me some room.
 

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bring me a bone stock early tacoma in the morning and ill have 35's on it with no rubbing before you have your lunch break. its easy. fuck this has been gone over more than my ex girlfriend. mount the damn tire and wheel package you want, remove the coilover, jack up on the lower a arm till its smashed against the bumpstop and turn the wheel. see where it hits? now cut, and cut and cut till you have room around the tire EVERYWHERE. now skin that shit with the sheetmetal you had in your basement or attick or stole off your neighbors porch. seal it all up and paint it. mount your coilover and go break a cv. since thats obviously the first thing that 35's do:rolleyes:. I ran 35's for 2 years with no breakage of ANY kind and a few people on here can tell you i wasnt gentle on that truck.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yes, I found a few threads on here from guys running 35's, and yeah, they all did great info on tubbing the firewall, and yeah I get that will be part of the process, I actually linked to the tlt build in the first post, and it's not what I have issue with at this point. after getting a few names I found more on trimming the bedsides and fenders which is of issue since I'm trying to keep my flares on for the street. I'm hoping the 1" body lift helps, and considering buying 35's is no small investment I'm gathering info on the subject.
 

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I wanna be a jackass, let me at it, cool?
I was on the fence about purchasing that same body lift myself months back but decided against it for personal reasons so I'm not saying they're evil baby killers or anything.. I don't find anything wrong with a 1" body lift, but you won't see me run one on my truck. I was sixteen when I got my first Toyota, IFS unfortunately so I opted for a 3" PA BL over a drop-bracket style lift as that's all I knew about at the time. I just think cutting/hacking when done right is usually always a better solution than a body lift. 1" go for? 3", I'll call you a teenager. ;)

I guess either way in my mind then, and my mind now spending $200>$600

Touche.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
yep, plenty familiar with tubbing, i saw the trails less travelled page on it years ago, i get it, and no doubt can do it, i have a welder of my own and am proficient at using it. i read through scuba's and sixstringsteve's, and they didn't have flares to begin with and didn't run a body lift. what doesn't get mentioned as often is how much was cut out of the wheel openings, even though scuba, sixstringsteve and trails less travelled cover it, but i have a body lift.

if my math is correct, and let's say they cut 1" out of the wheel opening to get their 35's to stuff with no rubbing on the wheel openings on the bed and front fenders, i might be able to get away with leaving my flares on and not cutting since I have a 1" body lift, and where it helps is at the top of the wheel openings where I don't want to cut. I can tell i will be cutting the fenders at the firewall at least, but if i get it aligned and ask them to push them as far forward as possible, that will help hopefully, and when i cut my bedsides for my rear bumper i can move my axle back a bit (already moved it forward a 1/2" when i did my u bolt flip) to miss the front of the bed's wheel opening. then I can hopefully fit my bumptops in the rear to keep my tires off the top.

finding out about what people ran for a wheel spacer is equally important to me, seems like the least I can run the better in terms of stress on components, and the turning circumference of the wheel. the way I figure, the less the wheel sticks out, the less contact it will make with fenders and firewall, kind of like swinging a bat, the more you choke up, the shorter the swing. if 3.5" of backspacing is the magic number, i should be able to run 3/4" spacers like these http://www.motorsport-tech.com/special/truck/toyota_s and be right at 3.25" of backspacing because i have 4" back spaced wheels now. if that's right, i can go from there
 

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yep, plenty familiar with tubbing, i saw the trails less travelled page on it years ago, i get it, and no doubt can do it, i have a welder of my own and am proficient at using it. i read through scuba's and sixstringsteve's, and they didn't have flares to begin with and didn't run a body lift. what doesn't get mentioned as often is how much was cut out of the wheel openings, even though scuba, sixstringsteve and trails less travelled cover it, but i have a body lift.

if my math is correct, and let's say they cut 1" out of the wheel opening to get their 35's to stuff with no rubbing on the wheel openings on the bed and front fenders, i might be able to get away with leaving my flares on and not cutting since I have a 1" body lift, and where it helps is at the top of the wheel openings where I don't want to cut. I can tell i will be cutting the fenders at the firewall at least, but if i get it aligned and ask them to push them as far forward as possible, that will help hopefully, and when i cut my bedsides for my rear bumper i can move my axle back a bit (already moved it forward a 1/2" when i did my u bolt flip) to miss the front of the bed's wheel opening. then I can hopefully fit my bumptops in the rear to keep my tires off the top.

finding out about what people ran for a wheel spacer is equally important to me, seems like the least I can run the better in terms of stress on components, and the turning circumference of the wheel. the way I figure, the less the wheel sticks out, the less contact it will make with fenders and firewall, kind of like swinging a bat, the more you choke up, the shorter the swing. if 3.5" of backspacing is the magic number, i should be able to run 3/4" spacers like these http://www.motorsport-tech.com/special/truck/toyota_s and be right at 3.25" of backspacing because i have 4" back spaced wheels now. if that's right, i can go from there

Look through my thread again where I posted pics of my friends 96 4Runner and what he did in regards to the firewall and the fender flares.
 

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bring me a bone stock early tacoma in the morning and ill have 35's on it with no rubbing before you have your lunch break. its easy. fuck this has been gone over more than my ex girlfriend. mount the damn tire and wheel package you want, remove the coilover, jack up on the lower a arm till its smashed against the bumpstop and turn the wheel. see where it hits? now cut, and cut and cut till you have room around the tire EVERYWHERE. now skin that shit with the sheetmetal you had in your basement or attick or stole off your neighbors porch. seal it all up and paint it. mount your coilover and go break a cv. since thats obviously the first thing that 35's do:rolleyes:. I ran 35's for 2 years with no breakage of ANY kind and a few people on here can tell you i wasnt gentle on that truck.
Sasaholic, I've tubbed to fit my 35x12.5 km2's but I'm still rubbing the frame a bit when fully turned. What would you recommend for fixing that? I'm hoping there's another option besides getting a skinnier tire or spacers.
 

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Sasaholic, I've tubbed to fit my 35x12.5 km2's but I'm still rubbing the frame a bit when fully turned. What would you recommend for fixing that? I'm hoping there's another option besides getting a skinnier tire or spacers.
besides spacers your only option is wheels with less backspacing. but just remember that your tires will turn in a wider arc(same as with spacers) and may cause more rubbing at the outside edge near the fender unless you tubbed quite a bit. i got alot of frame rub with my km2's on 15X8.5 wheels with 3.5 inch bs so i ended up throwin on a set of 1/4 inch spacers and longer studs up front and that was just enough to let the tires still rub the frame, but not catch a lug on it and lock the tire up. if i didnt care about how far the tires stuck out i would have ran 1 1/4 inch spacers and never had to worry about it but being in california where the tires need to be covered i was trying to not get pulled over any more than i already was.
 
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