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Discussion Starter #1
What rear shocks do I need to buy to match a toytec 2.5-3" suspension lift (brand and lenght)? What would offer the best ride but support hauling 1200-1500 lbs in the rear on occasion. How much are these shocks gonna cost me?

Another quick question, even with the diff drop the CVs are going to wear faster than normal, correct? If so how long do typical stock CVs last non lifted vs lift? Any better life out of them if I do 2.5" vs 3" or is it negligable?
 

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Get bilstiens. I am sure that someone can come up with part #s for you.
The bils just ride a lot nicer than most other shocks.
 

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chris and doug at toytec have gone out of their way to answer every question i have and i asked the same question you did , here is chris's reply to me:
-Rear Shocks- Bilstein part number- BE56253H5 and make sure that you get the -New ID shock eyelet bushings needed for correct fit on Tacoma's, Energy Suspension part # 98108R or Daystar part # KU08007. these are a higher quality and a must for the new shocks.
hope this helps
-darren
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So are these the bil 5100s or the 5150s? whats the difference? what do they cost? cheapest place to get them?
Anyone have a comment on the CV angles and longevity?
 

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TuRD03 said:
What rear shocks do I need to buy to match a toytec 2.5-3" suspension lift (brand and lenght)? What would offer the best ride but support hauling 1200-1500 lbs in the rear on occasion. How much are these shocks gonna cost me?

Another quick question, even with the diff drop the CVs are going to wear faster than normal, correct? If so how long do typical stock CVs last non lifted vs lift? Any better life out of them if I do 2.5" vs 3" or is it negligable?
It won't be shocks you'll need for that much weight, its new aftermarket leafpks. shocks just dampen the bounce, they have nothing to do with ride hight unless you get into adjustable air shocks.
I've had NWOR hd leafpks for about 2 1/2 years now and they still give me 2.5-3" of lift and handle 2000# with no problems. The just don't flex well...duh :p I started out with a heavy duty rear shock (KYB) but the ride was very stiff. I switched to the ligher valved 5150s and now my truck rides better than my wife's RAV4 ;)
I got the shocks from www.camburg.com just mention ttora for a 10% disc.

http://www.bilstein.com/flash/shocked.htm
for the differences in 5100s and 5150s but basically the '50s just have an external rez. and come come in a lighter valving.
The real problem with going to the '50s is the lack of lengths available in the lighter valving. Taco rear shocks come in 2 different lengths with the pass side being 1" longer than the dr. side. Most of the 5150s come in 2" incriments which sucks.
I had to add 1.5" shackles in order to be able to run the 10" and 11" shocks I have now. Until I add longer bump-stops I still run the risk of bottoming out the shocks and breaking the mounts. So far, so good though.

CV wear is caused by having the boot fins tightly pressed together. One wears a groove into its neighbor. If you have some daylight between fins you should not have a problem. if, on the other hand, the fins are jammed together you may get 2 mos out of them depending on how many miles you drive. this is usually only a problem with the inner boots.
As for how long yours will last...its a crap-shoot. Some guys have the high lifts and have never had a boot issue. some have minor lifts and have gone through boots like oil changes...go figure.
 

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I added the toytec lift to my 01' TRD Pre-runner so I already had the bilestiene shocks but I didn't have to change anything... I had to let the truck off the jack to get them down far enough to reach the bottom mounts but I didn't have to change any of the back shoocks for the 3" lift...

I don't need new shocks do I??? Since it's a TRD doesn't that mean I have the 5100's?

Thanks,

J
 

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TuRD03 said:
What rear shocks do I need to buy to match a toytec 2.5-3" suspension lift (brand and lenght)? What would offer the best ride but support hauling 1200-1500 lbs in the rear on occasion. How much are these shocks gonna cost me?

Another quick question, even with the diff drop the CVs are going to wear faster than normal, correct? If so how long do typical stock CVs last non lifted vs lift? Any better life out of them if I do 2.5" vs 3" or is it negligable?
The best thing to do is to take measurements.

Take measurements at static ride height (from shock mount to shock mount), compressed (from shock mount to shock mount) and extended (from shock mount to shock mount).

Now with this application call your favorite parts store, give them the information and they will find the best shock for you.
 

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txtaco1 said:
I added the toytec lift to my 01' TRD Pre-runner so I already had the bilestiene shocks but I didn't have to change anything...

I had to let the truck off the jack to get them down far enough to reach the bottom mounts that seems odd; usually when a lift of that type (that includes a top-load spacer) requires pushing down the lower control arm to get the coil/shock assembly back in since it is now 1/2" (or whatever) longer than stock.

but I didn't have to change any of the back shoocks for the 3" lift...I don't need new shocks do I??? Since it's a TRD doesn't that mean I have the 5100's?
no, you must get new, longer shocks for the rear with that lift.
Bilstien does make the TRD shocks but they are a 'production' run shock of lesser quality then their aftermarket shocks like the 5100s and their HD front shocks. Without swapping out the rear shocks they become the limiting factor during axle droop and you can actually snap off a shock mount under the right circumstances...rare, but it can happen.
you will also need a BPV (brade proportioning valve) extension bracket and a longer (usually 24") rear brake line.
 

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Hmmmm.... You have me thinking now... Now I was talking about the back shocks in that whole post, I did have to pry down on the lowere control arm to get the front assemblys back in after the spacers were installed... I was talking about the back when I said I had to let it down to get them to reach... No one ever suggested that I get any different shocks to add on the rear after the lift. It's been about 2 months now with the factory bili's on the back with lift installed... Would I see any difference with new back shocks?

I'm happy with the way it rides and it's a total street queen so I don't know that they will see any more stress than they have already seen.

Thanks,

J
 

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txtaco1 said:
Hmmmm.... You have me thinking now... Now I was talking about the back shocks in that whole post, I did have to pry down on the lowere control arm to get the front assemblys back in after the spacers were installed... I was talking about the back when I said I had to let it down to get them to reach... No one ever suggested that I get any different shocks to add on the rear after the lift. It's been about 2 months now with the factory bili's on the back with lift installed... Would I see any difference with new back shocks?

I'm happy with the way it rides and it's a total street queen so I don't know that they will see any more stress than they have already seen.

Thanks,

J
if you don't plan on taking it off road and flexing it out you won't have any trouble with the now too-short rear shocks ;) I would still replace them with a set designed for a 2-3" lift. just call Camburg.com or Demello and they will know and have what you need. you'll wind up with two different length shocks as the pass side uses a 1" longer one than the driver.
for the brake line you can just bend that little bracket up, http://www.norcalttora.com/~chris/mods/Rear diff breather extension/photos/photo_7.html ,to take some of the pressure off the OE line when the driver's side is in full droop.
You'll still need a BPV extension bracket but you can make one for a couple bucks. http://www.norcalttora.com/~chris/mods/BPV/photos/photo_3.html
 

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I have the BPV extension, but I didn't do anything with the break line on the passenger side. I don't really remember looking at it during instillation but, everything seemed cool to me before I took it to the road. Here is a pic of the brake liane and you can see the BPV way over to the right. If you click it again it gets HUGE and you can see it really well. Does it look ok to you? It looks ok to me...

http://www.allenhost.com/gallery/album299/Tacoma_Lift_044

I may indeed check on some new rear shocks... I'll have to look into the 5100 or 5150's maybe with the 5100 bieng so hard to come by. Thanks!

Jason
 

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txtaco1 said:
I have the BPV extension, but I didn't do anything with the break line on the passenger side. I don't really remember looking at it during instillation but, everything seemed cool to me before I took it to the road. Here is a pic of the brake liane and you can see the BPV way over to the right. If you click it again it gets HUGE and you can see it really well. Does it look ok to you? It looks ok to me...

http://www.allenhost.com/gallery/album299/Tacoma_Lift_044

I may indeed check on some new rear shocks... I'll have to look into the 5100 or 5150's maybe with the 5100 bieng so hard to come by. Thanks!

Jason
the Bilsteins are just backordered for everyone at the moment. As for the 5150s they are not a great choice for stock application because they do not come in lengths of 1" incriments as is needed for the Tacoma. The 5100s do, however.

as for your brake line junction, it looks by your pic to be fine. One way to check it out is to flex out the rear and get that driver's side tire off the ground for full droop on that side. then look at the brake line (its on the dr side, not the pass side). If it is stretched tight try bending that jct up a tad but not so much to kink the hard lines. If it is still very tight you'll need a longer line.
 

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The grass hoper needs to learn to type and spell!!! LOL!!

J
 
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