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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, I'm getting everything on my truck the way I want it for now, so my next project is trying to smooth out my undercarrage. I'm mostly concerned with my crossmember and transfercase. I'd like to protect my trasfercase better and maybe get a little ground clearance. I've been looking around and budbuilt and skidrow have a few things. The budbuilt option seems pricy and difficult, they want you to take off your transfercase and install a clocking adapter, which rotates you transfer case up into the frame, them buy a special crossmember, and skidplate, for an almost completely flat belly, but like i said this whole thing seems difficult and expensive. The other thing I was looking at was only about $185 and it was a skid row transfercase skidplate. it bolts to the frame and to the existing crossmember and covers the whole tansfercase. But you dont actually get any added ground clearance. It runs even with your crossmember, which is about 18in off the ground on my truck. It just gives better sliding and protection. I'd like to find something that adds to clearance, and protects my undercarrage. Please let me know of any other opions I might have or things that have worked for you guys, thanks.
 

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Ok, I'm getting everything on my truck the way I want it for now, so my next project is trying to smooth out my undercarrage. I'm mostly concerned with my crossmember and transfercase. I'd like to protect my trasfercase better and maybe get a little ground clearance. I've been looking around and budbuilt and skidrow have a few things. The budbuilt option seems pricy and difficult, they want you to take off your transfercase and install a clocking adapter, which rotates you transfer case up into the frame, them buy a special crossmember, and skidplate, for an almost completely flat belly, but like i said this whole thing seems difficult and expensive. The other thing I was looking at was only about $185 and it was a skid row transfercase skidplate. it bolts to the frame and to the existing crossmember and covers the whole tansfercase. But you dont actually get any added ground clearance. It runs even with your crossmember, which is about 18in off the ground on my truck. It just gives better sliding and protection. I'd like to find something that adds to clearance, and protects my undercarrage. Please let me know of any other opions I might have or things that have worked for you guys, thanks.
Marlin may have something similar to BudBuilt, not sure though. But if BB and Skidrow are the only two options you have right now, I would recommend BudBuilt. He is a hell of a person, great customer service, and produces quality products. You want the clearance, why sacrifice that? Do it right the first time.
 

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Going John Galt
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Ok, I'm getting everything on my truck the way I want it for now, so my next project is trying to smooth out my undercarrage. I'm mostly concerned with my crossmember and transfercase. I'd like to protect my trasfercase better and maybe get a little ground clearance. I've been looking around and budbuilt and skidrow have a few things. The budbuilt option seems pricy and difficult, they want you to take off your transfercase and install a clocking adapter, which rotates you transfer case up into the frame, them buy a special crossmember, and skidplate, for an almost completely flat belly, but like i said this whole thing seems difficult and expensive. The other thing I was looking at was only about $185 and it was a skid row transfercase skidplate. it bolts to the frame and to the existing crossmember and covers the whole tansfercase. But you dont actually get any added ground clearance. It runs even with your crossmember, which is about 18in off the ground on my truck. It just gives better sliding and protection. I'd like to find something that adds to clearance, and protects my undercarrage. Please let me know of any other opions I might have or things that have worked for you guys, thanks.
clocking the tcase is pretty much all you can do...and that is actually the simplest route to go, sorry.

to achieve a completely "flat" belly you would have to add a body lift and then a drivetrain lift along with the clocking adapter and cutting off and fabbing a new tranny mount/xmember.

the easiest thing to do is to get skids that go from front to just past the tcase so you can slide over stuff. This route is pretty much 'bolt-on' with very little fabbing. Cheap? LOL, nothing about modding these trucks is cheap so get used to it.

the only thing that truely adds clearance is taller tires...and that cost even more to do right.

30* clocked tcase, OE tranny xmember, fabbed aux xmember behind tcase; flat from front bumper to tcase.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
yea, i like what I see on FROR, I will probably get, their crossmember and transfercase skid. Then I'll have a nice piece of sheet metal cut, to bolt to the frame rails where the old crossmember was
 

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yea, i like what I see on FROR, I will probably get, their crossmember and transfercase skid. Then I'll have a nice piece of sheet metal cut, to bolt to the frame rails where the old crossmember was
I was thinking about going with their crossmember and transfer case skid also. I was wondering if you were to get a 2nd transfer case (crawler) later, would the FROR parts then be useless? You'd have to get a different crossmember it looks like. And would those welded on brackets be in the wrong place with a dual transfer case set up? Should ask Brian at FROR I guess.

Why would you bolt a piece of sheet metal down there? LOL.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I'm have no future plans of doing a second transfer case, but I do have one concern about the skidplate, It seems similar to the skid row skidplate, it looks like it welds onto the frame rails, and actually takes away from your clearance, There site doesn't actually show any pictures of the skidplate on a tacoma, If anybody has this skid plate please post some pics
 

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Clocked 10*, pushed the drive train up 1.75", and new cross member with a custom low profile trany mount and I'm still 2" bellow the frame..... But its strong as hell ;) Still planning a rear cross member and skid similar too Hytener.
looks good! now all you need is a set of skids ;)
 

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You don't need a drivetrain lift to go w/ a flat belly. A body lift helps but isn't necessary with a big enough hammer and clocking the t-case is pretty simply w/ a budbuilt ring. Those are good starts, but in the end it does come down to cutting out the transmission crossmember to gain any real clearance. Other than that your best options are just some long skids but that's just a cover up to the bigger problem.

when you clocked your tcase did you relocate the breather nipple to the other side of the shifter? ;) if not the case will puke oil into the dead-air space in the end of the tranny.
 

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Hahaha that's the best piece of knowledge you could have passed on. Maybe that's why I have this annoying drippage. Where does it need to be relocated to? I do know the one you're talking about.
LOL, yea, we discovered this the hard way as well. :p

We wound up plugging the OE breather nipple and drilling/epoxying another one into the shifter plate on the opposite side. What happens is this: Inside the tcase there is a little baffle that shields the breather outlet from direct oil splash. When the case is clocked this baffle becomes a scoop that directs the oil right into the breather...oops.

Notice the hose on the dr side of the shifter. We picked up a brass barb connector and epoxyed it into the drilled hole. (remove the shifter top-plate to do this...duh :p) Or, you can drill/tap and then use a 1/8" tapered pipe fitting barb. Then run the newly placed tube to the OE connection/barb at the pass side of the rear of the tranny.
When you drill the hole make sure to allow enough clearance for the boot :rolleyes: As you can see, mine is a little tight.

 

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kind of off topic, but when you modify the shifter does it throw the "throw" off im just wondering if it becomes harder to shift it into 4 low (or just learn a new position) and if when you clock your transfer case does the shifter end up interfearing at all witht he console or does teh modification fully take care of that?
 

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heres mine, no clocking




 

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kind of off topic, but when you modify the shifter does it throw the "throw" off im just wondering if it becomes harder to shift it into 4 low (or just learn a new position) and if when you clock your transfer case does the shifter end up interfearing at all witht he console or does teh modification fully take care of that?
Mine's not harder to shift, just different getting into 4lo. It did take a little getting used to at first.

As for clearance...w/o at least a 1" BL or lots of pounding it will be harder to keep the shifter rod off the body. If I were to do this again I wouldn't just weld in a section of 1/2" rod like you see in the pics but a peice of 1/4" flat stock like we did with the crawler shifter. That would allow a little more room at the critical point.


going this route with the OE tcase shifter is a lot trickier than using a rod, however. The problem is getting that rubber dust boot and other parts (mainly that top washer/ring that it held in by the snap ring) back on there...which is why we did what we did initially. To do this with flat stock you have to be a lot more careful welding since that washer/ring has to be on there while you weld...can't slide it on afterwards. In using the 1/2" rod that ring can be slid up and out of the way while welding. Then, clean up the weld and grind it smooth enough for the washer to slide back down.
sorry, I couldn't find any pics showing all this...the FSMs don't have any exploded views of the shifter :( To get the dust boot back on with using flat stock you have to cut it to get it to get it over the shifter, etc and down past the weld point...don't have to cut is using a rod.


Here's one of my busted shifter from the '05 Dusy trail run. There is a ring that goes over that ball (not shown). I re-welded it with Mike's Ready Welder...after which I noticed I'd forgotten to slide that ring on there :rolleyes: . After quite some time spent with a dull hack saw and starting over all was good. ;)


I wound up cutting/rewelding that shifter several times before getting it 'just right' and fitting in the console the way I wanted it, clearing both the body underneath and the console plastic above.


more pics
http://www.tacomaterritory.com/~ccorley/mods/crawler/crawlershifters/
 

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How about crunches/exercise and less cheesy puffs?
 
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