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What is the wheel stud size or part number to use toyota lug nuts instead of having to use jeep lug nuts?

Thanks

Hutch
 

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dyogim said:
Dorman 610264-1. I believe the "-1" is the longer studs. With out the "-1" are the shorter ones.

Do you know a good source for them? I was thinking Napa may carry them but I am not sure. would that be a safe guess?
 

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Bear said:
Do you know a good source for them? I was thinking Napa may carry them but I am not sure. would that be a safe guess?
Kragen(partsamerica.com) has the shorter ones for $1.99 and the longer ones for $2.19.
 

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dyogim said:
Kragen(partsamerica.com) has the shorter ones for $1.99 and the longer ones for $2.19.

Thanks! now I just need to figure out if they are close to me or if it going to be strickly mail order. I am new to my area and don't recall ever seeing them around.

I am off to do my research on them now! Thanks again!
 

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Bear said:
Thanks! now I just need to figure out if they are close to me or if it going to be strickly mail order. I am new to my area and don't recall ever seeing them around.

I am off to do my research on them now! Thanks again!
Kragen also goes by the name of "Checker's" or "Schuck's". So look for that.
 

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dyogim said:
Kragen also goes by the name of "Checker's" or "Schuck's". So look for that.

Thanks Mike, looks like in my area though they go by the Advanced Auto parts name.

Nothing like a company making it confusing to do business with them is it? what happened to the days one company went by one name across the country?
 

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i know this post is old as hell, but just in case people are searching like i should have first--
just dont get "stock" dorman part numbers. advanced, o'reilly, autozone, napa, don't matter-- get the 610.264's. stock they give you 610.266 and they don't do diddly, won't even bite into the hub, hell-- barely even reach through it. the 266's they give you are for fronts of 85 and 95.5+ alike.
just a headsup.
 

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Yeah... they are hard to get in there. I used a die grinder with a carbide cutting head to open up the hole just a bit. Made it easier to install the studs yet still tight enough for them to bite.

Yogi

banThis said:
and they are hard as hell to get in there too. who'd of thought .27? mm's difference in the knurl would make that much of a difference.
 

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i drilled holes in a 2x6 so i could rotate the hub around to me and keep pounding on the long side of the 2x w/out damaging the hub studs.
i know its kinda stupid to bang hammers together, but took one 3lb with a pointed end resting on the studs and pounded on it with another 3lb wearing the hell out of them.
was hard not to get frustrated and mess something up, but mission accomplished. bfh squared.
 

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Can someone clarify what studs to use? I take it from this thread that you can use toyota studs. I was about to order longer jeep studs, but if I could use toyota studs it would be better.
 

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tlt has a writeup on longer studs from Arp which have the highest strength you can get probably, plus they are a cool looking galvanized color. only problem is the price (about 100 bucks) but at least you'll never have to buy new ones

http://www.trailslesstraveled.com/news.php?id=59
 

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will those work in waggy rotors? When I was at oreilly I was comparing the toyota and waggy wheel studs, the waggy had a slightly larger base diameter where it seated into the rotor. It's seating base was also longer because it has to seat into the rotor+the hub. The toyota stud was a little loose inside of the waggy rotor and its seating base didn't extend into the hub.

Bump again
 

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IF you use a drill there is a good chance you will make the hole too large, and the studs will not fit properly. They are suppose to be a press fit, thus why you want to use a die grinder and only take out a small amount of material.

Yogi

the-t-man said:
anyone know the actual size to drill out the jeep hole to make a yota stud fit properly??i would rather drill it then ream it out with a diegrinder..
 
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