Wheel studs

6772 Views 38 Replies 14 Participants Last post by Mr Tacomi, Apr 20, 2007

Hutch98

Discussion Starter · Jan 10, 2005

What is the wheel stud size or part number to use toyota lug nuts instead of having to use jeep lug nuts?

Thanks

Hutch

21 - 39 of 39 Posts

the-t-man

· #21 · Jan 27, 2007

yogiaz said:
IF you use a drill there is a good chance you will make the hole too large, and the studs will not fit properly. They are suppose to be a press fit, thus why you want to use a die grinder and only take out a small amount of material.

Yogi

there is that little of differance? if you actually have the right drill bit size and drill it with the drill press i would think it would be fine?? you would have more of a chance makeing it egg shaped useing a carbide bit? i will be pressing them in i just want it the actual right size for the knurls to seat right??

shovelracer

· #22 · Jan 27, 2007

I used the proper dorman number above. I installed them the other day and no drilling was required. I just pressed them in with my small 10 ton press. I would not drill the hole or ream it since the fit could become loose and you may find out later that you cant get a lug nut off cause the whole stud spins. If you cant do it that way them take a trip to your local mechanic and have them press in the new studs. Otherwise pick up a press. I promise you wont regret it. I use mine all the time, studs, ball joints, seals, bearings worth every penny. A small one can be had for about 90 on ebay, or look into a 20 or 30 ton if you want to do some serious work.

yogiaz

· #23 · Jan 28, 2007

IF you want to make it that complicated then go ahead. As the guy in the previous post said, its possible to just press them in. I have done it with my press before. But I still feel its easier to "touch" them up a bit with the die grinder first. IF you feel that you cant remove a little material without "egg" shaping the hole, then more power to you finding the right size drill bit.

Yogi

the-t-man said:
there is that little of differance? if you actually have the right drill bit size and drill it with the drill press i would think it would be fine?? you would have more of a chance makeing it egg shaped useing a carbide bit? i will be pressing them in i just want it the actual right size for the knurls to seat right??

the-t-man

· #24 · Jan 29, 2007

yogiaz said:
IF you want to make it that complicated then go ahead. As the guy in the previous post said, its possible to just press them in. I have done it with my press before. But I still feel its easier to "touch" them up a bit with the die grinder first. IF you feel that you cant remove a little material without "egg" shaping the hole, then more power to you finding the right size drill bit.

Yogi

i guess i missed the part about not haveing to drill them out pressed them in yesterday worked perfect thanks for the heads up..

Miguel

· #25 · Apr 20, 2007 (Edited)

Bringing up an old thread. I guess the reason I'm asking this question is because I'm not entirely sure I believe the guy behind the desk at Napa Auto Parts.

I have hub assemblys (no rotors installed yet) from a 1990ish K5 Blazer D44 to mount on my 1986 Waggy D44. I talked to Mike at Parts Mike and he told me that the hubs are the same on both vehicles. So the guy at Napa says that the Dorman studs mentioned above (610264) will NOT fit in my hub assemblys because they're too wide and that the stud "splines" don't grip in the right areas.

Has anyone had this issue before? I'de really like to be able to run the same lug nuts up front as the back but by the looks of things, I'm gonna have to have them press studs up front with a different thread. I need an answer ASAP cause they're gonna start pressing everything together tomorrow at 9 am. Thanks!

~Miguel

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Mr Tacomi

· #26 · Apr 20, 2007

My short story: I have 610-264 Dorman studs... Waggy hubs/new rotors. I couldn't hammer the new studs into the assemblies...so I found a drill bit fractionally larger than the existing holes...studs went in with too little effort and it soon became obvious that this wasn't going to work. On to new hub assemblies: Turns out that Kragen carries new hub assemblies for about $100.. or with the rotor (and GM studs) for $50 ea...

took new rotor/hubs and pressed in the Dormans this afternoon at a small press at work (wasn't available the first time). The knurled part of the Dorman stud 'grips' in the same place the GM studs do: in the hub, not the rotor. The only issue I see with these studs is that the 'shank' of the stud comes through to the front of the wheel mating surface a bit, and I have steel wheels, so the wheel nuts bottom out on the stud before the wheel is tight against the wheel mating surface. Since I don't have any shortage of threads visible, I'm gonna solve this with a 1/8" or 3/16" slip-over wheel spacer. I thought about just running the GM studs, and it probably wouldn't be the worst thing to deal with... a little more annoying if you are going to run wheel locks... Good Luck, Miguel!

-Mark

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Miguel

· #27 · Apr 20, 2007

Mr Tacomi said:
My short story: I have 610-264 Dorman studs... Waggy hubs/new rotors. I couldn't hammer the new studs into the assemblies...so I found a drill bit fractionally larger than the existing holes...studs went in with too little effort and it soon became obvious that this wasn't going to work. On to new hub assemblies: Turns out that Kragen carries new hub assemblies for about $100.. or with the rotor (and GM studs) for $50 ea... took new rotor/hubs and pressed in the Dormans this afternoon at a small press at work (wasn't available the first time). The knurled part of the Dorman stud 'grips' in the same place the GM studs do: in the hub, not the rotor. The only issue I see with these studs is that the 'shank' of the stud comes through to the front of the wheel mating surface a bit, and I have steel wheels, so the wheel nuts bottom out on the stud before the wheel is tight against the wheel mating surface. Since I don't have any shortage of threads visible, I'm gonna solve this with a 1/8" or 3/16" slip-over wheel spacer. I thought about just running the GM studs, and it probably wouldn't be the worst thing to deal with... a little more annoying if you are going to run wheel locks... Good Luck, Miguel!

-Mark

Shit.

Well thanks for the info Mark! It looks like I'll be running different lugs up front than in the rear...which means I'll need to get 12 new lugs. Which means I'll have two new wheel locks just for the front. Which means I'll have to carry around 2 wheel keys...

sigh...

Unless someone has a solution???

~Miguel

Big-A

· #28 · Apr 20, 2007

Miguel said:
Shit.

Well thanks for the info Mark! It looks like I'll be running different lugs up front than in the rear...which means I'll need to get 12 new lugs. Which means I'll have two new wheel locks just for the front. Which means I'll have to carry around 2 wheel keys...

sigh...

Unless someone has a solution???

~Miguel

1/2" wheel spacers

Then all of your lugs will be the same thread pattern

Miguel

· #29 · Apr 20, 2007

Davis3000 said:
1/2" wheel spacers

Then all of your lugs will be the same thread pattern

Oh...well that definitely a way to do it. Hehe. But...that's an extra $100 I wasn't planning on spending. I'll have to figure my life out eventually I guess.

~Miguel

Big-A

· #30 · Apr 20, 2007

Miguel said:
Oh...well that definitely a way to do it. Hehe. But...that's an extra $100 I wasn't planning on spending. I'll have to figure my life out eventually I guess.

~Miguel

LOL......get out the ol' Capital One card

Miguel

· #31 · Apr 20, 2007

BTW.

No one (including Parts Mike) has ever heard of Dorman 610264-1. 610264 seems to be the only part number that comes up. 610264-1 isn't even in the Dorman published parts book.

~Miguel

dyogim

· #32 · Apr 20, 2007

Miguel said:
BTW.

No one (including Parts Mike) has ever heard of Dorman 610264-1. 610264 seems to be the only part number that comes up. 610264-1 isn't even in the Dorman published parts book.

~Miguel

I used 610264-1 and purchased them from Kragen (aka PartsAmerica). Check them out online: http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?MfrPartNumber=610264-1

You can purchase them online and pick up at store. I can see if any of the Kragens have them here and bring them up to the bentup shop on sunday. Heading up there in the morning to get some work done.

Mr Tacomi

· #33 · Apr 20, 2007

Miguel said:
Oh...well that definitely a way to do it. Hehe. But...that's an extra $100 I wasn't planning on spending. I'll have to figure my life out eventually I guess.

~Miguel

I said 'SLIP OVER' wheel spacers....

This is from Summit racing... $5.39 each.... 1/4" thick... most tire places or any performance shop should have something similar...

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Miguel

· #34 · Apr 20, 2007 (Edited)

dyogim said:
I used 610264-1 and purchased them from Kragen (aka PartsAmerica). Check them out online: http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?MfrPartNumber=610264-1

You can purchase them online and pick up at store. I can see if any of the Kragens have them here and bring them up to the bentup shop on sunday. Heading up there in the morning to get some work done.

Interesting!

Either way, these "won't work" because they're the same girth (hehe) as the 610264s, just longer (right?).

Thanks for offering, but you don't need to bring those up to AJ.

~Miguel

Miguel

· #35 · Apr 20, 2007

Mr Tacomi said:
I said 'SLIP OVER' wheel spacers....

This is from Summit racing... $5.39 each.... 1/4" thick... most tire places or any performance shop should have something similar...

I think Anthony was referring to wheel spacers that include studs (Toyota thread/pitch) such as these ones:

Either way, I'de still need to spend $100 on spacers, then find the right nuts that will be safe enough to use on the wheel spacers.

~Miguel

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Mr Tacomi

· #36 · Apr 20, 2007

Anthony said 1/2" wheel spacer.... the type of spacer you put a picture of only comes in a minimum of 1" width... the amount of the dorman stud 'shank' above the wheel mounting surface is just about an 1/8"... easily cured with the slip-over spacer... and there's plenty of thread for the lug nuts to hold the wheel on... nothing special required... I saw a picture on the AZ SAS board this morning....

Mr Tacomi

· #37 · Apr 20, 2007 (Edited)

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2767189540100864020jjGrHg

That's what mine look like... the wheel will set against the hub fine, but the lugnuts won't tighten down properly... throw a couple of 1/4" spacers behind the wheel and all is good

Miguel

· #38 · Apr 20, 2007

Mr Tacomi said:
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2767189540100864020jjGrHg

That's what mine look like... the wheel will set against the hub fine, but the lugnuts won't tighten down properly... throw a couple of 1/4" spacers behind the wheel and all is good

I gotcha. I guess there's two issues at hand then. The first one is the stud treads being the same as OEM Toyotas. The second is needing a 1/4" or 1/2" spacer so that the lug nuts don't "run out of thread".

~Miguel

Mr Tacomi

· #39 · Apr 20, 2007

...and the dorman stud's whole purpose in life is that it IS the same thread as the rear
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