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Discussion Starter #1
I have done a few older toyotas and it did not cost much i plan on doing my tacoma for around 500 why do all of yall say it camt be done
 

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Because it can't be done WELL.

I dare you to post up a SAS that you put $500 here and not have a single person tell you what you should have done differently.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'll take that bet and just so you know im a highly skilled metal fab and welder and with this price this is used parts and I will put my build up here
 

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I'll take that bet and just so you know im a highly skilled metal fab and welder and with this price this is used parts and I will put my build up here
Can you fab Chromo Axle shafts, and ring and pinions? What are you going to do for steering? You can Sas a truck for cheap, but it wont last long if you actually wheel it. :2cents:
 

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I'll take that bet and just so you know im a highly skilled metal fab and welder and with this price this is used parts and I will put my build up here
So am I and it didn't cost 500...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I hunt and mud ride i live in fl i sas my first toyota in 2000 it still runs and drives fine ive never had any problems out of it even when it was rolled and 35 mph lots of dents and dings as far as steering it will have a 90 model steering box i will have to buy joints to connect it as far as the tie rod ends i will use chevy one ton in some dom tubing which i get cheap as far as the axle goes im not sure what to run the wagg are i have a hp ford dana this is going to be my first tacoma swap so thats why im on here to find info like that out
 

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Leaf springs and what front end are you using?
Leaf springs and a chopped/flipped yota axle. I have 70k miles on my rig since te sas and have not had any issues.

The only brackets I bought were the panhard bracket, rear leaf spring hangers and the ubolt plates. Everything else I Fabbed and it was well over 500 bucks...

Let me put it this way. I probably spent 500 bucks on welding wire, oxy, acy, argon and consumables...
 

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:xpopcorn:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I have seen the oil pan swap is this an issue because of where the steering pitman arm comes across are can you not swap the oil pan with enough lift? I plan on doing this next month and i have a guy in pensacola fl that sells nothing but used oem toyota parts cheap been buying parts for 10 years from him
 

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I have seen the oil pan swap is this an issue because of where the steering pitman arm comes across are can you not swap the oil pan with enough lift? I plan on doing this next month and i have a guy in pensacola fl that sells nothing but used oem toyota parts cheap been buying parts for 10 years from him
Its not the amount of lift, its the full compression that is an issue. Same with the position of the steering box. You have to angle the box enough to keep the arm tucked up to the frame (unless you run a flat pitman arm). If it hangs too low, it can/will contact the tie rod. And with the steering this high to the frame, at full compression the drag link is close to contacting the oil pan since the stock pan is a front sump.
 

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I have seen the oil pan swap is this an issue because of where the steering pitman arm comes across are can you not swap the oil pan with enough lift? I plan on doing this next month and i have a guy in pensacola fl that sells nothing but used oem toyota parts cheap been buying parts for 10 years from him
This should be good :xpopcorn:
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks for the info on the steering issue i have read alot about this swap the only thing im still unsure of is what stock axle is the best ? Does the wagge have the spring perch on the chunk
 
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