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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, I consider myself extremely mechanically inclined but I found something that just eludes me. On my 95 P/u I removed the wheel looked at it a bit then removed the "manual lock hub cap" lokked at it some more scratched my head then removed the bolts holding the locking hub body on the other part attached to the rotor. Then pry'd and pry'd and could not get the rotor off I thought WTF. So I called my local 4X4 shop they said use a bigger hammer so I grabbed mt 3lb. sledge and tried again. Won't budge I was told not to remove the center bolt that appears to hold the cv and bearings in place. How the hell do you get the rotor off? It is attached to the hub body which is then attached to the silver hub locking mechanism. hmmmm any ideas?

Aaron
 

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xcmountain80 said:
OK, I consider myself extremely mechanically inclined but I found something that just eludes me. On my 95 P/u I removed the wheel looked at it a bit then removed the "manual lock hub cap" lokked at it some more scratched my head then removed the bolts holding the locking hub body on the other part attached to the rotor. Then pry'd and pry'd and could not get the rotor off I thought WTF. So I called my local 4X4 shop they said use a bigger hammer so I grabbed mt 3lb. sledge and tried again. Won't budge I was told not to remove the center bolt that appears to hold the cv and bearings in place. How the hell do you get the rotor off? It is attached to the hub body which is then attached to the silver hub locking mechanism. hmmmm any ideas?

Aaron
On my old 97 4x4 w/ manual hubs, it was a simple matter of removing the caliper and beating the old rotor off. There was nothing that made it 'captive' like on some other vehicles.

My suggestion is to get the 20 lb sledge and take a few whacks. Seriously.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Damn thats what I got from eveyone so far. But now that Ive thought about it what hold the assembly on the axle?

Aaron
 

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xcmountain80 said:
OK, I consider myself extremely mechanically inclined but I found something that just eludes me. How the hell do you get the rotor off? It is attached to the hub body which is then attached to the silver hub locking mechanism. hmmmm any ideas?

Aaron
My 96 is the same as obscurotron's it's just a slip on rotor over the studs. If yours is the same as ours try puting a ballpean hamer ( ball in inbetween ) two of the studs and hit it with another hammer. Go all the way around the rotor this way. This limits the chances of buggering up the stud. The shock and tendancy of it to slightly dent the rotor will help free it up.

xcmountain80 said:
Damn thats what I got from eveyone so far. But now that Ive thought about it what hold the assembly on the axle?
The studs and the wheel keep it there
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
boophoenix said:
My 96 is the same as obscurotron's it's just a slip on rotor over the studs. If yours is the same as ours try puting a ballpean hamer ( ball in inbetween ) two of the studs and hit it with another hammer. Go all the way around the rotor this way. This limits the chances of buggering up the stud. The shock and tendancy of it to slightly dent the rotor will help free it up.



The studs and the wheel keep it there
It appears the rotor is attached to the other plate whic contains the studs they are seperate otherwise there would be no option for removal... But this was the most helpful yet thank you keep em coming.

Aaron
 

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xcmountain80 said:
It appears the rotor is attached to the other plate whic contains the studs they are seperate otherwise there would be no option for removal... But this was the most helpful yet thank you keep em coming.

Aaron

The only other help I can think of to offer you is to look at your new rotors if you have them already and get ideas to how they area mounted. A place for a race and a seal would indicate you have to tear more things down.

Here are some pictures of an old rotor off my 96. DSC01429front is the front view, DSC01430rear is the rear view.

The pictures really do not show the offset in the rotors if you would like one of that I can step out and get another shot.
 

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xcmountain80 said:
OK, I consider myself extremely mechanically inclined
I like this :) My only suggestion to add is I am almost 100% positive the rotor is a slip on unit. They have been making Toyota Pickups like that since the dawn of time so I don't see any reason why yours would be different.
I would suggest some WD-40 and a BFH, should come right off
 

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SAStoy said:
I like this :) My only suggestion to add is I am almost 100% positive the rotor is a slip on unit. They have been making Toyota Pickups like that since the dawn of time so I don't see any reason why yours would be different.
I would suggest some WD-40 and a BFH, should come right off
Nope, wrong. I've never changed rotors on a tacoma, but I've put them on my fj40s, 82,84,87,89,93, etc toyota pickups. The rotor does NOT slide over the studs on a 95, unless it happens to be a 95.5 tacoma.The rotors actually attach to the back side of the hub assembly. I just put rotors on my 89 last year. You do need to remove the hub assembly, then pry back the locking tabs on the spindle nut. Remove the two spindle nuts, and pull the whole hub/rotor assembly off with the outer wheel bearing. The hub will seperate from the rotor with a little banging and prying after you remove the mounting bolts from the backside of the hub.Clean all the old rust off the hub mating surface, put the hub into the new rotor and tap the two together with a large rubber mallet. Make sure the holes for the bolts line up. Once the hub is bolted to the new rotor, just repack the wheel bearings, and put it all back together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
boophoenix said:
The only other help I can think of to offer you is to look at your new rotors if you have them already and get ideas to how they area mounted. A place for a race and a seal would indicate you have to tear more things down.

Here are some pictures of an old rotor off my 96. DSC01429front is the front view, DSC01430rear is the rear view.

The pictures really do not show the offset in the rotors if you would like one of that I can step out and get another shot.

Yes that is what the new ones well the old ones too both look this way.
thankyou

Aaron
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
BMWTACO said:
Nope, wrong. I've never changed rotors on a tacoma, but I've put them on my fj40s, 82,84,87,89,93, etc toyota pickups. The rotor does NOT slide over the studs on a 95, unless it happens to be a 95.5 tacoma.The rotors actually attach to the back side of the hub assembly. I just put rotors on my 89 last year. You do need to remove the hub assembly, then pry back the locking tabs on the spindle nut. Remove the two spindle nuts, and pull the whole hub/rotor assembly off with the outer wheel bearing. The hub will seperate from the rotor with a little banging and prying after you remove the mounting bolts from the backside of the hub.Clean all the old rust off the hub mating surface, put the hub into the new rotor and tap the two together with a large rubber mallet. Make sure the holes for the bolts line up. Once the hub is bolted to the new rotor, just repack the wheel bearings, and put it all back together.

Thank you sooo much thats is exactly what I neede to know, the Haynes manual lsay nothing of this and anything close is listed with the T100 model.

Thanks again

Aaron
 

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xcmountain80 said:
Anybody know how to remove the stuborn cone washers? seem to be bonded to the hub body?
Put a brass drift on the end of the stud and wack it good with a 3lb+ sledge hammer. The cone washers will pop out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
gambrinus said:
Put a brass drift on the end of the stud and wack it good with a 3lb+ sledge hammer. The cone washers will pop out.

And in the event I dont have a brass drift?

Aaron
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
gambrinus said:
Go buy one... I thought you said that you were "extremely mechanically inclined"?
Yes but In all the repairs and projects I have done I have never heard of such a thing , a brass hammer yes but a brass drift? hmmm nope never heard of it . Anyhow what does it do? does it slide over the threads ? then what? I used my punch and my sledge to hit the heads of the hub body bolts but to no avail! these bastards dont want to seem to budge. Currently the truck is in the air so if anyone can come up with something great if not ill have to put it back together again and take it to a "Certified Mechanic" this sucks......

Thanks Guys

Aaron
 

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xcmountain80 said:
I used my punch and my sledge to hit the heads of the hub body bolts
Thats what you were supposed to use the brass drift for ;) Since its brass it won't screw up the threads on the studs. Anything harder than the stud can mess up the threads. Your brass hammer would have worked. Sometimes you really gotta pound on them. Soak down the cone washers with some penetrating solvent stuff... If smackin on the ends of the studs doesn't work then you can wack the hub itself right where the studs screw into the hub. If you do this make sure you put a nut on the end of the stud cuz when that cone washer breaks loose it is going to come a flyin off...

Just so we are on the same page, the thing that you are trying to get off (that has the dial 'cap' bolted to it) is called the hub lockout. The thing it bolts to (via the studs and cone washers) is the hub or hub body.
 

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I rebuilt an 85 axle and the cone washers were stubborn sum beeches, but with a little persistency, they generally give in
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Sucesssssssss

BMWTACO said:
If you spin the hub assembly around while tapping it with a hammer it will eventually come free.

Yeah so after a quick search on Pirate4x4 and yota tech found some good articles but better yet pictures! "My fav" And one said hit the metal just behind the cone washer but still on the hub body hmmm I thought I had hit eveywhere except there so I went back outside and put the nuts for the hub body back in place as to not lose the cone washer and smacked it. Wouldn't you know it worked like a charm so now m brake job is done. But I must have missed at some point and fugged up either one of the nuts or the threaded bugger that the cone washer was on. How hard are these to replace if at all replacable?

Thanks guy for all your help I have pics in case anyone else has this problem!!!
Oh yeah and I repacked my bearing and it was happy !

Aaron
 
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