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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi all,

I've driven my truck about 20,000 miles with a supercharger and no fuel mods and don't have any obvious pinging issues. I drive pretty slow, maybe that's why. Anyway, I just ordered the full URD fuel package.

Now, I do all my own maintenance on the truck, installed my own lift, installed my supercharger, but I gotta say, according to the instructions, installing these fuel mods has me nervous. It looks like there is a LOT of electrical work to get the piggy back computer installed correctly and I'm a little worried about pulling the fuel pump and replacing it.

Can anybody convince me that I'm not getting in over my head?

I don't really trust most mechanics in my area, North Austin, (hence doing my own maintenance) but if I had to, who would be a good person to do the electrical work?

It just seems like once you start screwing with a vehicles wiring, it's never the same...

Thoughts? Opinions? Advice?


2002 d-cab
v6
auto
2nd gen charger
 

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Learn some basic soldering skills and follow Gadget's instructions to the letter and you'll be fine.
http://elitecaraudio.com/tips/car_audio/soldering1.shtml
http://www.circuittechctr.com/guides/7-1-1.shtml
http://www.epemag.wimborne.co.uk/solderfaq.htm

One tip is to pull the engine harness through the firewall and do the soldering in the engine bay where you have more room (thanks "uid_o"). Just remember to pull the FTC wiring through too. :D


The wires that needed a tap, URD recommends not cuting the wire to the ECU but using strippers cut the insulation and slide it back. Then wrap the wire you're tapping around the exposed wire and solder. Then wrap with electrical tape and a wire tie.


The wires to the ECU that need cutting you can solder and use heat shrink, I like to use double heat shrink. Here you can see the red wire from the engine sensor is cut and the blue wire carries the signal to the FTC and the blue-white wire delivers the modified signal to the ECU.


The URD instructions for all their kit is outstanding, the best I've ever seen. The instructions are vehicle specific and will tell you exactly what color the wire is and which pin it is for double confirmation. You could be color blind and still do this.
 

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mt_goat said:
One tip is to pull the engine harness through the firewall and do the soldering in the engine bay where you have more room. Just remember to pull the FTC wiring through too. :D
That right there is a damn good idea. I've done so much ECU piggy backing on other cars from the inside and it's a huge pain in the ass. Can't believe that I didn't think of this.
 

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Interex said:
That right there is a damn good idea. I've done so much ECU piggy backing on other cars from the inside and it's a huge pain in the ass. Can't believe that I didn't think of this.
Wish I could take credit for the idea, but thanks go to "uid_o" on CT. :xrocker:

There was still one tap I had to do under the dash on mine and it was harder for sure.
 

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I am much like you in the fact that I rather work on my own equipment. But with that being said, when I installed my supercharger and mixed matched fuel mods I was lacking the confidence in myself. Especially in the same areas you mentioned. But the fuel pump is a piece of cake if you take your time and follow common sense on safety precautions etc. The Piggy back stuff scared me more than anything else. but in the end it was fairly easy.

Just follow the instructions as said earlier and take your time. You will be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
thanks

Great guidance guys. I've heard you can't tilt the bed in the D-Cabs, that you have to drop the tank. Can anyone confirm this?

Even with the tips the wiring is intimidating. I'm going to have to reflect on it a bit and build up my courage. Pulling the wiring harness through the firewall sounds like a great idea.
 

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Dieck said:
Great guidance guys. I've heard you can't tilt the bed in the D-Cabs, that you have to drop the tank. Can anyone confirm this?

Even with the tips the wiring is intimidating. I'm going to have to reflect on it a bit and build up my courage. Pulling the wiring harness through the firewall sounds like a great idea.
yup you have to drop the tank on the d-cabs

the hardest part of the wireing is soldering the new injector wires, they are real short and you have to do it basically sitting on top of the motor.

i heard but am not 100% certain that the new urd kits come with injectors that drop right in, no soldering. dont quote me on that though...
 

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drabnor said:
i heard but am not 100% certain that the new urd kits come with injectors that drop right in, no soldering. dont quote me on that though...
i was wondering the same thing.. was just about to e-mail them. hopefully gadget will chime in soon
 

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drabnor said:
yup you have to drop the tank on the d-cabs

the hardest part of the wireing is soldering the new injector wires, they are real short and you have to do it basically sitting on top of the motor.

i heard but am not 100% certain that the new urd kits come with injectors that drop right in, no soldering. dont quote me on that though...
You can use Supra 310 CC injectors that bolt right in with out any problems.
 

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Just follow the instructions. The install is not the hard part. If you need help with the wiring part, help shouldn't be too hard to find as it's just basic wiring and some soldering. Getting it properly tuned is the difficut bit so I suggest getting someone lined up to help you with that part before you dive in.
 

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There are a lot of these kits out there. There is a good chance there is someone real close to you that has installed and tuned one that would love to give you a hand. Let people know what part of the country you are in.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Gadget said:
There are a lot of these kits out there. There is a good chance there is someone real close to you that has installed and tuned one that would love to give you a hand. Let people know what part of the country you are in.
Good point. I'm in Austin Tx.

Gadget, I'm not knocking the kit, thanks for all you have done for the toyota community. I'm more concerned about my skillz.
 

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Dieck said:
Good point. I'm in Austin Tx.

Gadget, I'm not knocking the kit, thanks for all you have done for the toyota community. I'm more concerned about my skillz.
if you come down to the woodlands one weekend ill help ya, ive installed one complete urd kit/charger so far.. only took about 6 hours. but i cant help ya with the tuning :D
 

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Gadget said:
Now what you need to do is schedule a wrench-a-thon and offer pizza and beer for those that show up to help you put that puppy in.
do those new injectors plug into the stock harness now?
 

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law116 said:
if you come down to the woodlands one weekend ill help ya, ive installed one complete urd kit/charger so far.. only took about 6 hours. but i cant help ya with the tuning :D
I can help with the tuning, I'm in Deer Park/Pasadena area.
 

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The installation isnt that hard for the kit. Just time comsuming is all. One thing I figured out..make sure you run the tank as empty as possible. lol. Just A LOT lighter is all. I have a D-Cab also so yeah. The hardest part I had was the tuning. Since I live in Northern Minnesota my weather changes A LOT also. so I am starting to get the hang of it. Have fun...it is SOOO much better with the URD kits.
 

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Dieck said:
Hi all,

I've driven my truck about 20,000 miles with a supercharger and no fuel mods and don't have any obvious pinging issues. I drive pretty slow, maybe that's why. Anyway, I just ordered the full URD fuel package.

Now, I do all my own maintenance on the truck, installed my own lift, installed my supercharger, but I gotta say, according to the instructions, installing these fuel mods has me nervous. It looks like there is a LOT of electrical work to get the piggy back computer installed correctly and I'm a little worried about pulling the fuel pump and replacing it.

Can anybody convince me that I'm not getting in over my head?

I don't really trust most mechanics in my area, North Austin, (hence doing my own maintenance) but if I had to, who would be a good person to do the electrical work?

It just seems like once you start screwing with a vehicles wiring, it's never the same...

Thoughts? Opinions? Advice?


2002 d-cab
v6
auto
2nd gen charger
Let me tell you, if you can install a Charger on you NA engine and a suspension lift, you absolutely got the fuel kit. 9 months ago I couldnt only change my oil which took an hr. The fuel kit will be good for you, once alls complete youll be afraid of nothing. Id practice my soldering, and Google the correct way to do it, Id solder every single wire in the whole kit, that way you wont be guessing or halving to re-remove the fuel tank.

I personally thought it was much easier to drop the gas tank rather than raising the bed. make sure to use flare nut wrenches on the fuel line nuts. The injectors are so easy to install if you follow the instructions is not funny.
1. cut wiring to inj.2.lube and remove inj.3 swap injector grommets to new inj. 4. solder original inj wire to the new inj. harness, lube orings and reisert. Dont even sweat it. Plus the ECu to FTC wiring is so simple you cant go wrong, for ex. clip wire b5 on inst. diagram then solder said FTC wire to the part of clipped wire to the ECU. then other said FTC wire to the other clipped end of your original solid wire. Theres nothing to it, and Ive never messed with a piggyback ever, just take your time, and halve a friend help you with the gas tank job, also as MNTACo said less fuel is better and I mean below E, cuz that s is heavy. Youve got no probs, dont let some shop f-it up for you, youve got all the advice you need on this forum. Feel free to PM me I just got done with it a few weeks ago.
 
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