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Discussion Starter #1
I am in the middle of cleaning up parts for my SAS. When I first got my axle (two years ago) I completely stripped it of it's grease and paint, thinking I was going to immediately paint it again. But since it sat for a while and I saw signs of early rust. I primered it to protect it.

I also have some junk yard chevy springs, I started cleaning up as well as the steering box. Both the springs and steering box came from a yard up in Chicago, so they are both pretty rusty (I am not used to rust since I came from Texas and nothing really rust down there)

I am also going to need to paint other various other parts but that is a side point.

I have heard both good and bad things about POR 15 types of paint. I like the claim that it is tuff and hard to chip/scratch. But I don't like the idea that it can fade when exposed to UV light (although, it would realistically only see direct sun light if the truck was upside down.

But my wife has found a different type of paint called "Zero Rust", suppose to be cheaper than POR 15 and they use it on such applications as Oil dereks and other heavy industrail equipment. Here is the link to their site: http://zero-rust.com/

has anyone ever used this "zero rust" If so what are it's pro's and con's? As I research this zero rust stuff it looks like I would need to strip the primer off the axle housing. But then again I am sure I would have to do that with the P O R 15 stuff as well
 

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POR 15 to my knowledge though I have not used it is some great stuff. I know a couple people here and there that have used it and come up with some great results. It is a very hard paint and hard to chip from my understanding. It would only be good for non moving parts or parts that don't bend or flex. So putting in on those springs would be no good. The steering box should be fine.

Before you put anything on there though you should strip everything down and use a product called "right stuff" or "osfo"(sp?) wither one of those is good, use it on the bare metal. What this stuff does is it changes the chemical make up of the rust back to a metal. you whipe it on let it set for like 5 min then whipe it off. then you just et it dry and paint.
 

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I used the POR stuff for my SAS axle. You can overcoat it with their top coat stuff to counter the UV fade. However, I found that brake fluid takes the stuff right off and nothing is going to stand up to rocks. All in all it was not worth the extra effort in prep and clean up and expense as far as I am concerned. If I were to do it again, I'd just got for the rattle can and be done with it.

I don't like being called a :newbie: again.
 

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I actually have used por-15, and it's over priced garbage. I need to redo the frame rails on my vette again.
Frikkin garbage.

I won't comment on the other stuff, since I haven't used it, I'm not going to give an opinion on something I haven't tried. :D
 

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HardTaco said:
I actually have used por-15, and it's over priced garbage. I need to redo the frame rails on my vette again.
Frikkin garbage.

I won't comment on the other stuff, since I haven't used it, I'm not going to give an opinion on something I haven't tried. :D

Nothing beats a little sandpaper and rattle can. The problem with rust is you can't stop it if you don't remove it all, covering it up only slows it down.
 

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POR is moe of a rust converter, and is alot more hot, that ZR. ZR is more of an encapsulator, that starves the metal of oxygen. POR I belive is an epoxy base, and if you read its MSDS and SPRAy precautions must have isocyanates (bad stuff) and is not something you want to spray without precautions. As with anything prep makes the biggest difference, whatever product you use, if its very good will have a tech sheet, and will tell you how to prepare, and what metal prep you might need to apply. Opshos and stuff like that, work well, but if you do not neautrilze metal afterwards, you will have acid buildup underneath.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well dayum!

I was wanting to do everything right the first time. But now it sounds like doing it right the first time only means rattle can after a good steel brush on the grinder.

I guess I will go back to square one, do the rattle can thing and call it good!

and to all my Texas bros! I have already promised not to paint the axle burgundy so no worries! :lmao:

To Dick– you are a newbie newbie newbie! bha ha ha :newbie::xmoon:
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
BK005 said:
POR is moe of a rust converter, and is alot more hot, that ZR. ZR is more of an encapsulator, that starves the metal of oxygen. POR I belive is an epoxy base, and if you read its MSDS and SPRAy precautions must have isocyanates (bad stuff) and is not something you want to spray without precautions. As with anything prep makes the biggest difference, whatever product you use, if its very good will have a tech sheet, and will tell you how to prepare, and what metal prep you might need to apply. Opshos and stuff like that, work well, but if you do not neautrilze metal afterwards, you will have acid buildup underneath.

:confused: what would you suggest to use with standard rattle can? I would also note that I will be using all the chemicals/paint in my garage with young lungs around (not in actual garage but in house)

Like I mentioned earlier, I am from down around where you are. so I really didn't have a rust problem like they do up here in snow country.

Right now I stand at having the springs apart and have already taken a steel brush wheel to them and they look 100% better. But you can still see a "rusty film" on the black cast steel of the springs and bare steering box. So I know just metal wheel alone isn't going to get it all off and I don't think I have the time to hit everything with sand paper
 

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Bryanccfshr said:
Nothing beats a little sandpaper and rattle can. The problem with rust is you can't stop it if you don't remove it all, covering it up only slows it down.
This is why you need to sand then use "right stuff" get it at "advance auto" it works great just follow the instructions.

I have used this method and damn am I pleased with the results. i had issues with rust coming back after sanding and painting before since I started using this stuff no more issues.
 

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BK005 said:
Opshos and stuff like that, work well, but if you do not neautrilze metal afterwards, you will have acid buildup underneath.
The stuff that i have "right stuff" says that all you have to do is whipe it off and your done. did I miss something? because about 1/4 of the bed of my 85 pre-taco has had it used on it.

For the time being I have just used some simple spray paint over it to keep water out till the winter is over and I start the sanding filling of holes and repainting of the whole thing.

This kind of concerns me because the instructions on the bottle say nothing about having to neutralize the chemicle.
 

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jjrambo said:
This is why you need to sand then use "right stuff" get it at "advance auto" it works great just follow the instructions.

I have used this method and damn am I pleased with the results. i had issues with rust coming back after sanding and painting before since I started using this stuff no more issues.
]

I'll have to look into it. If I get an older truck from the coast I will be wanting to strip it down and do it right.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
jjrambo said:
The stuff that i have "right stuff" says that all you have to do is whipe it off and your done. did I miss something? because about 1/4 of the bed of my 85 pre-taco has had it used on it.

For the time being I have just used some simple spray paint over it to keep water out till the winter is over and I start the sanding filling of holes and repainting of the whole thing.

This kind of concerns me because the instructions on the bottle say nothing about having to neutralize the chemicle.

So you are saying this stuff called "Right stuff" is a metal prep chemical that gets rid of rust? is it in the body section of Advanced Auto parts? I think I will go look into the stuff after work since I am in the middle of prepping everything right now.
 

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Bear said:
So you are saying this stuff called "Right stuff" is a metal prep chemical that gets rid of rust? is it in the body section of Advanced Auto parts? I think I will go look into the stuff after work since I am in the middle of prepping everything right now.
yeah I picked it up over by the fiber glass and spray paints and stuff like that.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Great!

jjrambo said:
yeah I picked it up over by the fiber glass and spray paints and stuff like that.

cool! thanks :xbeer3:
 

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Bear said:
cool! thanks :xbeer3:
Your welcome man. I found the best way for applying it is to use a spray bottle. the instructions say to let it sit for an hour on the bair metal. What I have done is I took my dremmel and ground off all the large depsits and were the rust was starting to pit in i just ground that out as well.

after that I whiped it down with a towl and well right now I have it sitting outside with the "right stuff" applied with a spray bottle just waiting for an hour to pass by then I will be going and taping things off then putting some spray paint over that areas that need to be covered for the time being.

I had done this some time ago to other areas but I forgot to let the chemical sit on there long enough so I had a couple spots start rusting again. so this time i'm making sure that it's a full hour if not a little longer.

Also if you see that when the chemical hits the metal that in some areas it foams up don't worry it's supposed to.

PS sorry bout the novel
 
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