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5vz-fe high idle and rpm pulsating.

17K views 15 replies 3 participants last post by  Greensystemsgo  
#1 · (Edited)
newest info

when i replaced coked up iac i cleaned throttle body. horrible plan as it cleans the gunk that was sealing the worn intake/butterfly. look at picture. we shimmed the butterfly vallve so its centered, closes all the way, but theres a mm ALL THE WAY AROUND the butterfly. new TB on order. Not to all, dont clean your tb.

possible solution is to send it to http://www.maxbore.com/ to have it bored, and a new butterfly made.


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All material past this line is for historical reference.

OLD
current issue, is idle is around 1100-1300. occasionally holds rpm for a couple seconds after shifting into neutral from gear.

ECU sends both open AND closed signal to iac at same time. iac is new, confirmed working via fsm, and wiring has zero shorts have tested for shorts disconnected from ecu and IAC, have also opened entire loom and subjected to testing.

Also, from start (65f) to warmed up (203-209f), truck only hits open loop maybe once or twice during warmup, and only for a millasecond at that.

ignition advanced is sometimes as high as 35 degrees

odb randomly spazzes out causing multiple resets of scanner tools. multiple ultragauges.

ordered a new ecu. lets cross our fingers.






UPDATE
Still issues. but better?
Ive swapped injectors to see if misfire issue moves. it has not. still cyl5.

When i moved injectors, the idle jumped to 2k. while driving, and i shift into neutral, it would rev to 3k, hold a second, and then back to 2k.

so i put on a new tps, still new iac, and new vacuum line on throttle opener. albeit its a little small so need to up in size. metric vacuum line is hard to find from our suppliers and even autozone. idle is around 1300 cold and 1100 warm. and rarely pulses up. maybe 1500 once in a blue moon. IF i forcefully close the throttle opener it goes to proper 750 idle while warm.

so, i think the misfire issue is separate from the idle issue. going to swap coil packs with a new denso i picked up. and see if that fixes it.

my dash pot foam was solid like a rock, and the caps cracked. so filled with different foam, and going to super glue the cap. its like 60 bucks from toyota, but its so the throttle doesnt slam shut and kill the engine on manual transmission rigs. 22202-62140 is dashpot assembly part number. so im going to try and get a new throttle opener, and properly sized (metric) vacuum line. im unable to find a part number for throttle opener though. so hrm.



Original post:
99 4x4 5vz-fe.

This saga started about three weeks ago. Cel came on for IAC valve. I disassembled completely, cleaned all contaminates and rebuilt with new rtv and IAC seal and TB seal. Except I put tension spring to paint marker mark that Toyo marked with. This resulted in idle at 2k. So I changed it back to stock position. Both times leaving battery unplugged for 20+ min to reset ecu.

That resulted in engine pulsating between 1200rpm and 2000rpm, idle at 2000rpm, and just overall shit engine response. Engine also would maintain rpm for a couple seconds even after being set into neutral.

Since I first touched IAC I was getting cyl 6 misfire, except when I rebuilt second time I'd get cyl 5. Also get general misfire
If it was cold I'd also get any random combination of xyl misfires. And codes only popped up at initial start/warmup.

So, I replaced IAC with a airtex/wells, plugs/wires/MAF/coil on cyl3/5 with denso. Coil on 3 was autozone special so no they are all denso.

Now it idles at 1200, minimal pulsing, minimal rpm throttle lag, but idles at 2000 with ac on.

Originally idles at like 800 with ac off. And maybe 1050 with it on. 1200 was highest ever at idle.




So what's left? Now I might get a general misfire every 100 miles. Vacuum lines are good.

Cam position sensor? Ecu fault? I want to say not injectors as the issue moves between cyl 5 and 6. And lately cause it's running so hard I can smell coolant when I get out. Timing belt/pump/seals were changed 35k miles ago by a Toyota shop. Truck has 225k miles and I'm not ready to let it die.














For reference:

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#2 ·
Idle speed it high at low temps too so maybe you left one disconnected or something. The ECU runs from the front temps sensor, the rear temp sensor is just for the dash temp gauge so give the front one a good long look see.
Another sensor that increases idle speed is the PS pump. Other than that if the IAC passages is clean and clear then I'd probably begin to suspect the TPS. However if you have some misfireing going on, that is the very first thing that needs to be cleared up.

You didn't flood the plugs or something with coolent while working on the throttle body did you? You might want to pull the plug wires and coil packs and give the area around the plugs a good blast with compressed air to be sure it's all nice and clean down there. Do this with only the plugs installed of course.
 
#3 ·
symptoms of a bad dash pot are exactly what im describing. it has a crack in the cover, and one of the adjustment screws is loose. just fiddling with it in a parking lot made a huge change. all bad. but it gave me verification of the issue.
 
#5 ·
Throttle opener OK as per testing with vacuum pump. Iac adjusted from factory but now confirmed OK. Wiring, from iac all the way to ecm OK. Removed it, then visually and electrically tested.

According to FSM, that leaves ecm. Odd how it just randomly shit bed though
 
#6 ·
Don't be too quick to jump on the ECU as they rarely ever fail.

For starters make sure the ECU has a good ground connection to the enigine. It's a wad of wires going to one terminal bolted to the intake manifold somewhere. Make sure that it's good clean and well connected otherwise it'll cause all sorts of scrwball shit to go on with the ECU.

BTW If you think the ECU is causing a misfire, I'd look at the igniter first. It's a little widget that sits between the ECU and the coil packs and is also at the heart of ignition timing. Usually somewhere under the hood on the passenger side fender well.

All sorts of stuff affects idle speed coolant temp, PS pump, AC compressor etc.
 
#7 ·
forgot to mention, ecu is sending both open, and shut signals to iac at same time. plug is 3 prong, according to fsm, its -/+/-, or open ground, neutral positive, closed ground. positive is always hot, well both grounds are always ground.

ideas?

misfire is believed to be negligence to read tiny screen. p0305 id cyl 5 misfire. its believed codes p0505 or iac (as well as other things).

so stumped. fsm simply takes you though procedure to test iac on bench, test wiring, and confirm ecu is pissed.
 
#8 ·
It's important to remeber that the ECU responds to various inputs like some of those I mentioned so keep that in mind.
Crap in, crap out.

forgot to mention, ecu is sending both open, and shut signals to iac at same time. plug is 3 prong, according to fsm, its -/+/-, or open ground, neutral positive, closed ground. positive is always hot, well both grounds are always ground.

ideas?

misfire is believed to be negligence to read tiny screen. p0305 id cyl 5 misfire. its believed codes p0505 or iac (as well as other things).

so stumped. fsm simply takes you though procedure to test iac on bench, test wiring, and confirm ecu is pissed.
 
This post has been deleted
#9 ·
hi there. ive spent 2 cans of brake clean and a can of starting fluid to no avail for vacuum leaks as well as preemptively changed what i think is the 8mm vac hose.

coolant issue is over.

only code is p-0505, however ecu stays in closed loop only going in open loop maybe once or twice for a milla second during warmup.
 
#16 ·
issue was solved.

throttle body was bad.

as other users have noticed, the butterfly valve starts to wear towards the firewall creating a gap as it cannot close all the way. this issue is fixed by putting a washer in the linkage to pull it forward. unforutnatly for me, it was so worn it actually made the problem worse as now it didnt seal anywhere.

MT/AT throttle bodys are different, they will work on each other though. to go from MT to AT like me, you must adjust the throttle cable and make a new bracket. super easy

to go from AT to MT id imagine you need to do the same. except shorten the throttle cable.


Also, the dash pot, which is a manual trans only thing, while nice is unnecessary. its noticeable, until you learn to compensate for it.