Okay this is really about my 2005 Lexus GX470 front diff. drain plug, but it's similar/same as my 1998 Tacoma set-up, 10mm hex w/ copper/brass washer and 48 ft-lbf torque. Difference being this is first time I've tried to get plug off as had serviced at 30K and 60K mi. by Master Toyota Tech buddy where we previously lived 200 mi. away. Now, doing 90K servicing myself, incl. timing belt, WP and all other goodies, and can't get plug to budge. Tried 150 psi w/ 1/2 in. impact gun and 1/2 in.-10mm impact hex and nothing. Applied PB Blaster 6 times over 2 days to free up, but no go. And, yes I'm "Lefty Loosening" it. Wondering if plug has actually ever been removed which means has fluid actually ever been changed and what to do now. As always, greatly appreciate your thoughts and input as immensely helpful in past. Previous work shows up on work orders as completed, so want give tech buddy benefit of doubt 'til I know other wise. THANKS again!
jimbobaja
Sacrifice your 10mm hex socket and weld it to the plug. The heat should loosen it up. I had to do that to a stripped out plug.
Might be over tightened and if hex not fawked up, you tried with 1/2 drive breaker bar to remove drain plug? But I usually tighten drain plug snug, with steel crush washers, instead of copper washers.
Even when torqued correctly, they seem to seize up. I usually use a rubber pallet with my ratchet and allen head socket to break it free.
Siphon. when I had IFS I was never able to remove my drain plug, I always did changes by pumping out from the fill hole.
Cut your losses and leave it as is. Or if you can get the correct bit on an impact screwdriver you could try that.
Cut your losses and leave it as is. Or if you can get the correct bit on an impact screwdriver you could try that.
Cheater bar. But that can be a pretty big challenge under a vehicle. The only bolts I've never got off stripped threads, cap or sheared. Welding may work but I'd worry about the current path joining the metals at the plug and case, further seizing it.
I never use impact guns so I don't know how accurate their 'torque' rating is, but I do know you aren't applying 100+ ft•lb to a pistol grip impact gun, it'd break your wrist. But they do work extremely well at loosening bolts.
I never use impact guns so I don't know how accurate their 'torque' rating is, but I do know you aren't applying 100+ ft•lb to a pistol grip impact gun, it'd break your wrist. But they do work extremely well at loosening bolts.
Use a 10mm hex socket and a long cheater bar. Have someone apply pressure to the cheater bar, then use a small sledge hammer and smack the back of the cheater bar @ the flex joint it will shock the bolt with constant pressure being applied. I have yet to find where this didn't work with stuck drain plugs.
Lexus dearlership parts guys said to do about same thing and it worked great! Gave face of plug a sharp rap w/ flat face of ball pein hammer, mine 16 ozs. Shock of blow frees tension and popped free w/ minimal torque. Used 1/2 in. dr. w/ 10mm impact hex on 18 in. breaker bar. BAD news was only 1 quart gear oil drained out, took 1.5 quarts to fill. Damn, I'll never have anyone, incl. tech buddy, work on my rigs again. Doing auto. trans., power steering and brake fluid next and then should be good to GO! Thanks for help!
yep...breaker bar is the ONLY method that has worked for me.
And I always have to lift the entire front end of the truk on jack stands in order to have enough room for the long ass breaker bar.
And I always have to lift the entire front end of the truk on jack stands in order to have enough room for the long ass breaker bar.
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
