[ZUK]

:kewl:

Just a heads up....that I am not much help for FRONT gear installs in the clamshell design(95.5 and newer).....just don't have the right tooling and that one is out of the comfort zone.
I have no prob with the rears....the non-TRD and the E-Locker.

 

[mojavehanna]

:kewl:

Just a heads up....that I am not much help for FRONT gear installs in the clamshell design(95.5 and newer).....just don't have the right tooling and that one is out of the comfort zone.
I have no prob with the rears....the non-TRD and the E-Locker.

Yeah, I e mailed you about doing the install and thats what you told me so I had to use a local guy. It seems to be working fine though so odds are he did it correctly.

If my rear ever explodes I will give you a call for sure.

 

[grillmasterp]

:kewl:
Just a heads up....that I am not much help for FRONT gear installs in the clamshell design(95.5 and newer).....just don't have the right tooling and that one is out of the comfort zone.

After installing my Front ARB locker, I understand why.

 

[grillmasterp]

He said that he didnt have to mess with the pinion and didnt need to remove the old one. Just replaced the carrier bearings...

Yup- If its a straight carrier swap (transplanting the same ring gear) that's usually the case- for both front & rear. (As long as there was adequate pinion preload to begin with). You shouldn't have to mess with the pinion.


One of the most commendable (Next to Zuk's offer in this thread) things i've seen from Zuk's work is the pre/post Preload,Backlash, shim size specs on the tags once he's done-

For anyone- getting gear work done- You should request the same info-
It means the installer atleast checked the specs.

I have (with Murderman's assistance) had a chance to work on both front & rear Tacoma Diffs ( Front & rear ARB's, LSD, Tundra & Tacoma 4.30 swaps). Each time I have documented specs both Pre & post install.
It's very tedious & can be repetitive. So I am sure there are plenty of installers where "close enough" is good enough.

 

[ZUK]

jclimb--
Got the E-Locker from you :kewl: ....I had a chance today to se what the issue was and I think I have a handle on it. It mostly has to do with an excessively deep .099" pinion shim(should be about .072~.075) and too tight on the BL(varied from 4~8 thou). Richmond gears must be set with .010" BL. That would cause alot of noise.
Gotta head out for a camp-out in Florence tonight so when I get back tomorrow I will have it done I think.
Sub sandwich and white zinfandel tonight :xbeer3: :xbeer3:
ZUK

 

[jclimb]

jclimb--
Got the E-Locker from you :kewl: ....I had a chance today to se what the issue was and I think I have a handle on it. It mostly has to do with an excessively deep .099" pinion shim(should be about .072~.075) and too tight on the BL(varied from 4~8 thou). Richmond gears must be set with .010" BL. That would cause alot of noise.
Gotta head out for a camp-out in Florence tonight so when I get back tomorrow I will have it done I think.
Sub sandwich and white zinfandel tonight :xbeer3: :xbeer3:
ZUK

Awesome, that's good to hear. I tracked it and saw that it had arrived. I appreciate you looking at it so quickly. I'm looking forward to driving around and not hating my truck for sounding like a washing machine on spin cycle.
Did that packing hold up to the travel?

Thanks again,

-J

 

[jclimb]

Also, to somewhat correct an earlier statement, I guess the issue is that the R & P manufacturers don't make a direct replacement for the gears in the Tacoma e-locker rear end due to changes Toyota has made to the diameter of the ring in later model Tacomas. Instead, the standard V6 ring is used along with a new pinion yoke to make it work. I don't totally have a full understanding of these details so anyone please feel free to correct me. I just wanted to add it incase of future searches that may come across this thread.
This must be what the mechanic was telling me, though he didn't do a very good job of explaining it. I now know that that doesn't mean that the rear is going to sound like shit. That's caused by their crap work and refusal to admit it. Though, I'm the dumbass that accepted it.

-J

 

[ZUK]

...................Instead, the standard V6 ring is used along with a new pinion yoke to make it work. ......................

-J

The outer plastic tote was all cracked to hell but the box inside held well.

I think the mechanic was talking about the factory 30 spline pinion flange....versus the 27 spline count on the after-market pinion itself. This means they had to get a 27'er from Allpro or Marlin, etc. (30 bucks).

It should be alot quieter now.....and stronger. The way it was set the pinion was headed for destruction. I had some good to say about their install....and some bad. I'm sending it out in the morning

working on the link now............

 

[ZUK]

http://www.gearinstalls.com/jas.htm

Jason- try to use synthetic gear oil. Drive it easy for awhile as the gears are wearing in the proper area they were designed for.
ZUK

 

[Scootn2nature]

If I send you gears and pumpkins will you do mine free too?

LOL...........Ill be your best friend.

J climb you should have that shop send new stuff to zuk........since the wear on the stuff because they Flucked up the install............and any judge would rule in your favor based on the testimony Iv'e read and heard so far..........
send them a notice for small claims court and zuk will recieve new ones next day air I'm sure............it's cheap or free to start a claim at in court .at least
here in Calivochnia

 

[jclimb]

http://www.gearinstalls.com/jas.htm

Jason- try to use synthetic gear oil. Drive it easy for awhile as the gears are wearing in the proper area they were designed for.
ZUK

I can't thank you enough, ZUK. You have saved me a lot of $$ and heartache. It may seem weird, but I can almost deal with the idea of having to inevitably redo those messed up gears, but the pain of having to hear those things every time I drive and knowing that I got screwed and now my truck sucks....that's what was really getting to me.

I'm really sorry about the trouble with the pinion bearings. I'm more than happy to pay you for the new bearings and your tools.

I'll be contacting the shop shortly to have another conversation with them about their install and customer service issues. I'll post up the latest news.

Oh yeah, Zuk, I'm planning on running Redline Heavy Shockproof in the diff. I also have a few quarts of their 75w90 sitting around also. Do I need to change the fluid after 500 like before or just take it easy as you stated?

Thanks again, and please let me know the cost of the pinion bearing and I will send you a check.

-J

 

[ZUK]

Don't worry about the pinion bearing It was no big deal. The tools that bent on me were old tools so no biggie.

There's nothing worse than paying good money and the gears sound like you described. It's possible the shop guy could not get the pinion bearing off to reset the pinion depth.

I bet you can go alot more than 500 miles on the break-in with synthetic.....It all depends on how much debris and metal flakes you see in the oil....so check it every 500 or so. Maybe it will stay clean and you can just leave it in.

How many miles did you put on these gears? Fastest you went, speedwise?

 

[jclimb]

Don't worry about the pinion bearing It was no big deal. The tools that bent on me were old tools so no biggie.

There's nothing worse than paying good money and the gears sound like you described. It's possible the shop guy could not get the pinion bearing off to reset the pinion depth.

I bet you can go alot more than 500 miles on the break-in with synthetic.....It all depends on how much debris and metal flakes you see in the oil....so check it every 500 or so. Maybe it will stay clean and you can just leave it in.

How many miles did you put on these gears? Fastest you went, speedwise?

Shortly after the gears were done, I drove from Durango to Florida, nearly 2000 miles. It was interstate driving so I was going normally 75, but possibly up to 80-85. I changed the gear oil in Amarillo, TX at 550. I gave it a bit over 500 due to the discrepancies in my odometer after tire and gear changes.

-J

 

[d0ubledown]

ok so bringing back an old thread...

i've recently aquired some sort of whir. its almost non existant under 25mph, but then it gets much louder by 40mph. quite buzzy at cruising speed...kinda like spin cycle. it doesnt get louder/quiter if im on or off the throttle...its pretty much wheel speed and consistant. however, i cant really tell where its coming from as it pretty much resonates throughout the cab...noisy tires dont help. cant tell if its diff or wheel bearings. im hoping its the latter...

i regeared my 4.30 elocker to 4.88's about 9 months and 9300 miles ago. used yukon gears and oem elocker bearings from the stealer. was setup by an ex toy/lexus tech thats well versed in setting up gears. he also regeared my front diff and added an RD90. did the breakin and refill. now running synth. all went well when i swapped the diffs in. no problems...till now.

can a diff go bad after almost a year of use, and at least a dozen+ wheeling trips? rear Ujoint was replaced last year and is frequently greased. i drained out some diff fluid and got some metallic paste on the plug which is normal apparently. i cant imagine any reason why it'd do this now...?

is there any way to identify whether its a wheel bearing or diff issues? took it to a shop and they couldnt pinpoint it on a test drive. should i ask em to run it at speed on the hoist to see if they can isolate it before i tell em to go ahead and do all the bearings? any chance it could be front diff?

and mad props to ya ZUK for taking care of the toy community the way you do... :clap:

 

[allupinsydeyou]

if you have a rear cab window, slide it open and listen.... if you have a 2 piece drive shaft... it could be that little bolt up support deal thinggy that holds up the section where the driveshafts connect, or u coulda just had a guy not torque your gears right, or you threw a bearing... either way... get ur 3rd member loked at very very soon

 

[ZUK]

to check the rear....place the rear axle on jackstands and, with someone in the cab, have them run it up to 40 while you crawl under and listen. It should become very obvious where it is coming from.

 

[soaz]

Well, its already been done once so I'll revive this old thread again.
A shop installed a new set of 4.88's and ARB's for me. It whines and gets louder and more high pitched as I increase in speed. I can feel a little vibration even.
Its an 01 4runner v6 with the new arb and precision 4.88's.
Taking it by the shop that installed it for a chance to fix tomorrow and then to Zuk if they won't fix it...
I should have gone to Zuk in the first place for the rear diff at least... :2cents:

 

[ZUK]

noted.:kewl:

 

[soaz]

Well I went and got my truck at lunch today.
I gave the shop a chance to make it right.
Same noise, same vibration...
I'm going to pull the third as fast as possible tonight and get it off to Zuk.
Lets just hope the "new" gears aren't permanently messed up.

 

[ZUK]

http://gearinstalls.com/soaz.htm :kewl: